Hondata

The 1.1.0.7 beta has been rolled over into a 1.1.0.8 beta with the addition of two more changes.

Download here

1.1.0.7 Changes:
- Added a wideband analog voltage input.
- Added knock count.

1.1.0.8 Changes:
- Added reliability test to FlashPro flash memory.
- Added [url=file:///S:/www/hondata.com/help/flashpro/sensor_parameters.htm]speed adjustment.[/url]

Notes:
Once this version is installed, the FlashPro firmware will be updated. Please do not run earlier versions of FlashProManager once this has been done (in any case, backdating software is never a good idea).

Most aftermarket wideband lambda meters have an analog ouput. This output may be connected to the ECU so that the lambda can be datalogged. Two pins are available for this - the EGR lift (currently unused) and secondary o2 input. For most people the secondary o2 sensor input will be the easiest, as the wiring to the ECU already exists. You must unplug and disable the secondary o2 sensor. The S02 wire can be found inside the vehicle, under the left kick panel. The wire is white in position 14 (the last position) in a white connector. Use a multimeter to trace the correct wire, or see the ETM for the exact location and photographs.

The ground location of the lambda meter is critical. The lambda meter should have a power ground and analog output ground. Both these should be grounded to the same place as the ECU - which is on the intake manifold or valve cover. Don't ground the lambda meter to any other location. Don't add extra grounds to the ECU and create ground loops. The power supply for the lambda meter is not critical - the ground is.

The knock count is implemented as individual cylinder knock counters, plus a total knock count. Thus you can use the individual cylinder ignition timing to make changes to the ignition timing if not all cylinders register the same amount of knock.

The knock count is the most reliable way of determining if there is knock - better than looking at the knock level. Using a datalog, look at what points the knock count increases and decrease the ignition timing in those areas. Note that 'false knock' is possible from engine bay mechanical noise - often from headers or superchargers.

We added an additional check to the FlashPro internal memory to make sure it is working correctly.

The speed adjustment allows you to correct both the internal ECU speed and speed sent to the dash.

I can not find the white wire your speaking of. AllData is telling me that the wire is blue and then it turns white/red then turns all white at the ECU pin 27C. But the white connector in the kick panel has 2 white wires and neither are the last wore in the connector. The blue one is the last wire. Unless I'm looking at the wrong white connector. Also, it's telling me that the connector that it turns from blue to white is at the brake master cylinder, But that looks to be the fuse box. Any help would be great. I don't have a HELMS manual yet.

I was going off the ETM. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get a photo.

Thanks a bunch. I was just so confused by the info I was getting from ALL Data and from you. I might just pin the ECU and use the EGR lift pin. But I haven't made up my mind yet. If you can get me a better photo that would be great. Thanks so much. I know this is a little off topic but do you know if Honda sells the pigtail/connector for the IAT sensors separate from the main harness? I can't find a listing anywhere for one.

Your best bet with the IAT sensor connector is to get one from a earlier model car - anything from 1992-2001 should have one or two connectors which will fit.

Hondata, can't you make the engine light flash when there is a knock like the kpro?

Any update on the connector for the wideband? I'm dying to get my wideband hooked into the FP manager. Thanks Hondata.

so i wired this into the egr lift, i work at a shop and had access to a few wiring harnesses so i depinned a an ecu plug from a element and got the pin i would need. i installed all the wiring where its recomended grounded to the intake manifold. im using an lc-1. so my question is how do i know everything is calibrated right, i guess what im asking is how do i know that the wide band is accurate. i put my car on a smog dyno before and out the tail pipe the smog reading was .3 to .4 leaner then what my wide band was saying and the stock primary o2 read leaner also. any ideas?

The tail pipe is always going to read differently from before the cat. Remove the o2 sensor and perform the free-air calibration as suggested by Innovative. If your LC1 has the digital output then install the software on your laptop, connect to the LC1 and compare readings.

i didnt have a cat i have a rh so the readings should be really close to right on but i will try re calibrating. do you guys suggest using the wide band over the stock o2s.

also when using the wide band hould i be disabling both o2 sensors, so the ecu is making its compensations based on the wideband or does it auto do this when you turn on the wide band in the programing under lambda

The wideband input is for datalogging only - the ECU still uses the primary o2 sensor for closed loop operation.

I hooked it up to the C27 pin and it will notwork. First I tried the white wire behind the kick panel and it just reads 5.00v and 20,00:1 AFR. Then I ran the 5v signal from the wideband and spliced it right into the white/red wire at connector J/C C101 and it still wouldn't read. It just stays pinned at 5.00v. But when I shut the ignition off and the car shuts down the voltage drops to about 2.66 for about 2 seconds as the power shuts down and it reads about 14.2-14.3 AFR. I am baffled by this. I have my gauge grounded at the valve cover because I moved the IM grounds there because of the Hondata IM gasket. I'm hoping I have the correct wire at the connector at the master cylinder because that is how I checked continuity back to the white O2 lead at the kick panel. I had to find the connector the old fashioned way because the sedan is different than the coupe and the picture Derek sent me was for the coupe and would not work. All-DATA tells me that the white/red wire at that junction connector is the exact wire that goes to pin C27 for the SO2. But it just doesn't work. Any suggestions Hondata? My next step is to just add the pin to the EGR lift and be done with it but I really don't want to take my ECU out since I have that issue with the broken ECU pin and I know if I take the ECU connector off it will not work and I will get that CEL.

pin it at the ecu it works fine for me. but also make sure u update ur map on ur ecu to match

all-black wrote:pin it at the ecu it works fine for me. but also make sure u update ur map on ur ecu to match

Did that already. I didn't pin it at the ECU yet though. I'm trying to avoid that at all costs.

why its really easy takes like 5 min disconnect the ecu remove a yellow plug from the pin hole and put the pin connector in the ecu plug. u can get the pin from a body shop or wrecking yard. i got mine from a newer element harness we had replaced.