Hondata

Hi hondata,

What is the main diference in the MAF vs MAP fuel tuning.

I bought (pre-order) the flashpro because I want power and the correct AFR on the car.

I had a kpro (and before that a k100) on my old EP3 CTR so I know to tune fuel on a MAP calibration.

But my euro FN2 type R have a MAF also and I want to tune the AFR. Do I need to change to a MAP calibration?
can I tune the AFR with the a MAF calibration? if yes how?
What is the best AFR ratio on the k20Z3/K20Z4 at WOT and on part throtle?

And give us more information on this MAP/MAF fuel tuning please

Thanks

Nuno

i believe Doug said he will be posting a video on this very topic just to clear up any confusion, im sure he will have it up soon now that someone has posted a legitimate question

A search on 'speed/density' and 'mass flow' should highlight the differences. On Monday the FlashPro help files will be available which have more information.

We've found that the MAP tuning is superior pretty much in every case, and recommend using MAP calibrations if the engine has anything more than an intake added to it.

However, the MAP calibration is a 'race' calibration and some vehicle feaures may not work. For instance, for US vehicles the oil life never decreases. Let me know what vehicle you have and I'll check.

We've found the best NA AF is 13.0 - 13.2:1 at full load. At part throttle you'll want to keep the AF at stoichiometric (lambda = 1, approx 14.5:1 - 14.7:1 AF depending on fuel).

Hondata wrote:A search on 'speed/density' and 'mass flow' should highlight the differences. On Monday the FlashPro help files will be available which have more information.

We've found that the MAP tuning is superior pretty much in every case, and recommend using MAP calibrations if the engine has anything more than an intake added to it.

However, the MAP calibration is a 'race' calibration and some vehicle feaures may not work. For instance, for US vehicles the oil life never decreases. Let me know what vehicle you have and I'll check.

We've found the best NA AF is 13.0 - 13.2:1 at full load. At part throttle you'll want to keep the AF at stoichiometric (lambda = 1, approx 14.5:1 - 14.7:1 AF depending on fuel).

Thanks for the reply.

I have a 2007 euro civic FN2 type R.
My car have a CPL racing exhaust manifold, a RRC intake manifold (from the JDM FD2 type R), a 60,5 mm exhaust and for now the stock intake with a K&N filter + the hondata reflash

So the best way is MAP tuning.

So can I use this 'race' calibration? (with the hondata group N reflash the "oil" light dosent't work and it's not a problem).

Thanks in advance

Nuno

Hi NUNO :D

HONDATA How can i change my MAF to MAP sensor. I must buy MAP sensor???

All vehicles have both a AFM (MAF) and MAP sensor. Switching to a MAP calibration you don't need to change anything - the ECU ignores the AFM signal.

When you say using the MAP calibration turns off the Oil Sensors, does this mean if you stick to the MAF calibration it stays active? i undestand the sensor should never be used when a car is modified, just curious.

Only European vehicles have an oil level sensor - are you confusing this with the oil life?

With an AFM calibration everything works normally. On a US vehicle with a MAP calibration the oil life never decreases.

that's what I meant. Just a curiosity question.

Hondata wrote:All vehicles have both a AFM (MAF) and MAP sensor. Switching to a MAP calibration you don't need to change anything - the ECU ignores the AFM signal.

Does it mean that you can take out the MAF from the airbox and don't connect it anymore. And only drive on MAP.

You don't have to take out anything, it's like it says, it will ignore the AFM signal, but you still need that sensor to measure the intake temperature , if I understood correctly .