sorry I'm a noob as far as tuning :oops: but does the boost-cut function cause the knock CEL if I hit boost-cut? I found out the MBC I had wasn't working (or never worked) and additionally there was an oil leak for the turbo feed so boost cut was set to 12PSI. On the drive home I was on an on-ramp trying to match the speed of traffic so I did the old 1-2 shift in the higher parts of the powerband and got a CEL. I had my laptop on so I checked at the next stoplight what the code was. came out to be the knock sensor.
so 2 questions:
1) does the boost-cut cause the knock CEL? it was a knock sensor something malfunction CEL not a misfire.
2) if the MBC never worked and I'm still hitting boost-cut, doesn't that mean the wastegate spring is pushing more pressure than the boostcut? (I was told it ran off the MBC so I thought it was a 7lb spring)
Boost Controller/Knock issues
If you are getting knock errors, you need to look at your recording and see where it was occuring and try to remove timing from that area.
If your boost controller is not installed correctly and you are hitting a boost cut then you must resolve that before doing anything else. A manual boost controller is just a somewhat controlled leak and if it is not installed or workgin correctly it can cause you to overboost.
If your boost controller is not installed correctly and you are hitting a boost cut then you must resolve that before doing anything else. A manual boost controller is just a somewhat controlled leak and if it is not installed or workgin correctly it can cause you to overboost.
I'm sorry if I was unclear but that was the tuner's tune. He told me the following:
"I turned on your knock sensor feature and that's whats causing the CEL. If you know how to download the file from the ECU, dowload it, go to Parameters and click the tabs until you see the Knock feature and uncheck the knock sensor. Make sure you save the file before you upload."
so im assuming that the calibration is spot-on otherwise he would have warned me or advised me to find out what it is.
In regards to the boost controller, I didn't find out until the day at the dyno that it wasn't functioning properly because I assumed it was always dialed into the settings its supposed to be at. I am removing it tomorrow and replacing it with an GreddyProfecB-2 that I had lying around from my previous boosted car.
To my understanding it works off the spring by percentage correct? turning the dial adjusts the boost up/down and there will be 2 settings (high/low). Do you turn the boost up to the target consistent range or the target spike range. For example if my tune is for 16PSI but occasionally spikes to 17PSI do I want to set the EBC to 16max?
Thanks Spunkster for the reply, truly appreciate it.
"I turned on your knock sensor feature and that's whats causing the CEL. If you know how to download the file from the ECU, dowload it, go to Parameters and click the tabs until you see the Knock feature and uncheck the knock sensor. Make sure you save the file before you upload."
so im assuming that the calibration is spot-on otherwise he would have warned me or advised me to find out what it is.
In regards to the boost controller, I didn't find out until the day at the dyno that it wasn't functioning properly because I assumed it was always dialed into the settings its supposed to be at. I am removing it tomorrow and replacing it with an GreddyProfecB-2 that I had lying around from my previous boosted car.
To my understanding it works off the spring by percentage correct? turning the dial adjusts the boost up/down and there will be 2 settings (high/low). Do you turn the boost up to the target consistent range or the target spike range. For example if my tune is for 16PSI but occasionally spikes to 17PSI do I want to set the EBC to 16max?
Thanks Spunkster for the reply, truly appreciate it.
VtaK