I have been having a bit of a knock problem in my Civic Type-R with JRSC. Lots of solutions were tried, retarding ignition, increasing fueling, etc. with no solution.
I took out the spark plugs last week and they were gubbed! Fouled over, overheated, metal deposits from detonation or overheating the tip. So, I popped in a brand new set of HKS M40i's and it is running sweet! Only 8-13 knock per WOT run to over 8k RPM.
Worth noting for other people having knock issues....CHECK THE SPARK PLUGS!
I actually think I will have to replace the M40i's with M45i's as they are the same heat range as the S40i's that were gubbed but I will see how it goes with the new M40i's as they are a higher spec plug than the S40i's....
SPARK PLUGS CAUSING SERIOUS KNOCK!
I removed the m40i's a couple of days ago after a couple of hundred miles and they looked as if they had been overheated. They had little metal deposits on them too. There had been almost no knock.chardmax wrote:Have you get colder spark plugs or you still stay with the stock ??!
I put in the colder m45i plugs but haven't checked them as only done about 10 miles.
M40i's are the equivalent heat range to NGK 8's. M45i's are the equivalent to NGK 9's.fonz600 wrote:I was think the M40s. I'm running a NGK iridium cold level 8 plug at the mo.
What is the M40s?
What is the part number of the plug you are using? BKR8EIX? They are probably the NGK (lower spec) equivalent of the M40i. Denso do an iridium plug similar to the HKS one - IK24 is probably the equivalent to M40i and IK27 to M45i, again of lower spec. The HKS M40i and M45i have iridium centre electrode and platinum tipped ground electrode, just like the standard/OE iridium NGK Civic Type-R plug - IFR7G-11KS. NGK's BKR8EIX and Denso's IK24 and IK27 have the iridium centre electrode but no platinum ground electrode. Even though Denso make the HKS plugs, to my knowledge they do not sell the identical spec plug to the HKS one under their own brand. This is unfortunate as they would be half the price!
Have you removed your plugs to look at them? When I removed mine they were gubbed. Serious reduction in knock count after the new ones were put in..... Might be worth checking if you haven't already.
I have a question regarding Denso Iridium IK20 (suggested for k20a3) vs. IK22 (suggested k20a2/jdm k20/k20z3/k24a2)
its my understanding the IK20 are gapped at .44 & IK22's are gapped at .32 or .35" I think the IK22's are a step colder (9?)
another tuner told me for NA .44 is the optium gap - so which would be best for a n/a setup? obviously a f/a setup I would go with the IK22. any truth to the .44 gap for n/a
its my understanding the IK20 are gapped at .44 & IK22's are gapped at .32 or .35" I think the IK22's are a step colder (9?)
another tuner told me for NA .44 is the optium gap - so which would be best for a n/a setup? obviously a f/a setup I would go with the IK22. any truth to the .44 gap for n/a
I would have thought that the best gap for a naturally aspirated engine would be the 1.1mm (.44?). However, as you mention, Denso list the IK22 for a standard K20A2 engine but the IK20 for a standard K20A3 engine. Do you have a K20A engine? Denso recommend IK22G for it. I have attached specs of these plugs below.6spd_ek wrote:I have a question regarding Denso Iridium IK20 (suggested for k20a3) vs. IK22 (suggested k20a2/jdm k20/k20z3/k24a2)
its my understanding the IK20 are gapped at .44 & IK22's are gapped at .32 or .35" I think the IK22's are a step colder (9?)
another tuner told me for NA .44 is the optium gap - so which would be best for a n/a setup? obviously a f/a setup I would go with the IK22. any truth to the .44 gap for n/a
I usually go by HKS's plugs as their recommendations are less confusing. M35i for NA K20A, M40i Turbo or Supercharged K20A. I'm not actually too sure what the gap is on the M35i's but I think they are all 0.8mm, however, don't quote me on this.
M35i similar to IK22
M40i similar to IK24
M45i similar to IK27
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