Hondata

I was wondering why the k20a base calibration in the program run so much timing? I was tuning a car sunday with stock k20a and boltons that had a previous tune on it from another tuner. That tuner had simply used that k20a map as a base for the timing and the motor was knocking its ass off. I was able to still pull a few degrees out from that map and it would still slightly knocked. I pulled a couple more to where i usually end up finding k20a's need their timing set and it finally stopped. No knock at all and he said it felt like the car hadn't lost a damn bit of power. So i'm wondering was this map tuned for race gas and not pump?

Unless noted they were all tuned on 91 octane pump gas. It may be the combination of your bolt-ons or you may have a tank of bad gas.

Spunkster wrote:Unless noted they were all tuned on 91 octane pump gas. It may be the combination of your bolt-ons or you may have a tank of bad gas.

It happened on multiple fill ups so no not a bad tank of gas and it was on 93. The boltons were pretty standard stuff. 2.5" exhaust, Rcrew header, short ram intake.

The vehicles were all tuned on 91 octane fuel here. Be aware that a restricted exhaust or hot air intake (short ram) will increase the chance of knock. Also remember that most states switch to winter fuel around the start of November which, despite the same octane rating, will knock more.

Hondata wrote:The vehicles were all tuned on 91 octane fuel here. Be aware that a restricted exhaust or hot air intake (short ram) will increase the chance of knock. Also remember that most states switch to winter fuel around the start of November which, despite the same octane rating, will knock more.

What he said. That's why you always have to tune to the customers mods and needs.

I'm using the IGN maps from the hondata provided k20a map and they work great in my setup. The fuel from that map didn't work at all for me, but the IGN is great :) However 93oct is standard in my area.