Hondata

stage 2 / p28

using a gsr base map.. tuned on a dyno for my lsvtec...

the other night i was driving along and all of the sudden threw a CEL. so i shut the car off.. and restarted it... and now i have an idle surge that wasn't there before.. there was no code stored to be pulled and i have no clue what it could be..

i've checked everything that you usually would

tps voltage... air in the cooling system... etc...

any other ideas??

i didn't change anything.

i fixed it...


raised the target idle to 900 rpm and reduced the duty cycle on the IAC valve.

btw this is pills_PMD.. i juts happen to be using a friends computer.

Hi, I am very new to Hondatas, how did you change your target idle and reduce the duty cycle on the IAC valve? I have a Stage 2b, and I have idle problems with my car that would perhaps be cured if I could get it to idle a little higher and change the duty cycle on the IAC. Thanks very much.

toddjlarson wrote:Hi, I am very new to Hondatas, how did you change your target idle and reduce the duty cycle on the IAC valve? I have a Stage 2b, and I have idle problems with my car that would perhaps be cured if I could get it to idle a little higher and change the duty cycle on the IAC. Thanks very much.

you'll need someone with the romeditor and access to a rom burner, or someone has to do it for you.
Meaning you bring them your chip, they pull the code, make the necessary changes, and then plug it back on your ECU.

Most people can do this if they have the setup and are kind enough for free.. Some may not.
your mileage may vary. I can burn you a chip with his exact changes, only if you have your bin file.

otherwise find someone who can help you.

see2k

thanks for your quick response. Sorry for my ignorance, but what is a bin file? As for finding somebody to help me, I am working on it, I believe the nearest Hondata dealer would be Calgary or Murray, Utah. Do you think that maybe I would be better going with an FMU? Thanks.
-Todd

If you're running hondata and boost you shouldn't use an FMU.

a bin file is a binary file that is written to the EEPROM (the chip of your computer).

When a tuner is tuning your car, they usually will save a file after they are complete as a BIN file and then program your ECU with that file.

There has to be someone in your area with the romeditor and Pocket Programmer(the chip programmer) that could make those changes for you.

Even if you only have the pocket programmer (~$150) you can pull the code from your chip, and ask someone to make the necessary changes by emailing the BIN file to them.

Just so you know, FMU's and Hondata don't work together. However, if you're saying that you should resort to an FMU instead of a hondata for now, then sure.

Thanks for the info. I think in my case, the pocket programmer may be the way to go. I don't really want to switch back to a FMU, but I was thinking it might be easier because there is no Hondata dealer here.

But I am not ready to give up yet. Besides, I think the idle problems I am experiencing may be due to the fact that I am using RC440cc injectors with a stock GSR fuel pressure regulator (~50psi). My AEM regulator failed, it was set to ~40psi. I think maybe the engine is just getting too much fuel at idle and stumbling. I believe somebody on the forum said it was like trying to water a house plant with a fire hose. I am not sure how the RC injectors are constructed, though, they might be a disc type that can flow very low.

However, maybe resetting the timing, checking the TPS sensor, IAC valve, and playing with IAC screw all might be factors too.

Do you know if I can just adjust the IAC screw so that the engine will idle at 900 to 1000 rpm? I think this might solve my problem, at least temporarily, if not permanently. I ask this because the only place the engine stumbles is at idle. Performance is excellent at partial throttle and wide open throttle. Thanks.

you can try that..

What i did for a friend whos motor kept dying on idle after a rebuild was fixed his IAT duty cycle and took out fuel from the idle portion.

You can try to change the IDLE screw, but I suggest you mark where it was originally only because you will want the Hondata to mess with that for you.