Hondata

As found and origionally posted on http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=515400

Okay, let me start this off by warning you guys that this post is going to be long and full of many run on sentences. Last night was to be a defining moment in my K20 life. After a long and up hill battle I had thought I would overcome my power issues. Those that have been following my progress know that I have been fighting this battle for well over a year now. I will set this up as properly as possible so it will be easy to see.

After my first dyno about 6 months ago I posted my first thread:
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=500474

For that run I had actually had these mods on my 2006 Acura RSX type S
DCRH
ESMM
Tanable Hyper medallion
AEM V2
IMG
The outcome was disappointing, but I knew there was room to improve. 177whp, 130tq.
Here is the dyno sheet and the video of the pull.


****Note this run was way before KPRO!
Dyno:
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwE7Ld_DoJU

Alrite, so that?s a good basis point from which to start. So 4 months after heat soaking like a mofo, I thought it was time to upgrade my warm-air intake into something a little better and head to the dyno one again.

Mods: DCRH, ESMM, Fujita F5 CAI, IMG, Tanable Hyper medallion
Link to this thread: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=507546
The outcome was the only rewarding thing my car has given me over the last year and a half to be very honest.
***Note that this run to was done before k-pro!
Dyno:
The outcome was 188whp, 133tq.

So I looked at the AF ratio on that dyno and decided that a k-pro and a good tune could only keep my going faster and break 200whp like EVERY OTHER PERSON ON CRSX or anyone with a K20 for that matter.

Got a k-pro a few weeks ago and put her in. I had a fantastic street tune by JRSX the night before the dyno doing about 10 3rd gear pulls as he adjusted my ignition and gave me a flawless AF ratio. The car felt like it had balls, or did it?

Took it to the dyno yearsterday (Friday) to see. With Paul from split fire in the drivers seat and the genius JRSX behind the laptop, we ran the car.
Note, This run had k-pro
Vids:





LESS HP AND 2+ Tq.

I assure you gentlemen that before you jump on this thread with you infinite wisdom, it was not the tune in the least bit. The car is running at its most efficient point when it comes to power. There are NO knocks, and there are NO ghost knocks at any rpm range. All pulls were done on a SAE calibrated Dyno Jet by a professional tuner. The car was not heatsoaked in the slightest. Right before me a few other RSX?s did some pulls and there outcome was spot on where they were supposed to be. Christx with his 7psi pulley actually hit 260whp!!

So now I sit before you with a slow ass Type S and no more room to go any further. The car was properly broken in by me. I had bought it new with 6 km?s on it from which it was shipped. Oil changed (mobil 1) from day 1 every 5000km?s with great hamp filter, ect. The car is not abused and 94 octane gas is all this bitch sees.

As for power loss, we are out of ideas. I am at the point to where I am going to take it back to stock and run it to see what it could be and then just do a process of elimination to see which parts are causing me the roadblock.

Compression is perfect across the board as well, and all my work has been done by a licensed mechanic.

So here is everyone assumption. That great sounding exhaust system I have (Tanable Hyper medallion) has 2 resonators inside of it, as you can see from this pic.


Or. My manifold could possiblyhave a small leak. If you look at my datalogs, i never reach over 98kpa's on my MAP. Possibly the Hondata IMG has failed me.

So, my next and really ONLY point of attack is to hack the shit out of this exhaust and see if the outcome is really worth 20whp. I doubt it, but really its my only option at this point. My frustration is beyond the value of this car and I am about to get rid of it. Silly, I know, but I am power hungry and hate being beat up on by stock S?s all day long after I have sank countless dollars into this pig.


The dyno I go to DOES NOT READ LOW AND ACTUALLY READS SLIGHTLY HIGHER before you say this. Its not just a number either, it?s a number that We all use to judge out performance. My car is as slow as a dog on the street as well.

Anyways, please help me. I really don?t know what to do. K-pro should have tuned out the ?lemon?ness? of my car, but unfortunately, it actually made shit worse.

Even with the Base 2005 CAI base map i should have made power, yet, i actually lost. We tuned the AF to be most efficient and the ignition was touched slight until knock had occurred. The car is a gutless big with only 37,000km's on the tack. I am at my wits end with this car and soon may do something i regret. I have included 2 datalogs and my calibration.


Datalog was created after my af was fixed during a street tune
Datalog2 was taken lastnight cause of colder IAT's so that i can start my tempature compensation.

As for the dyno datalogs, i have no idea wtf they went, but i asssure you cam angles were touched, af was raised and lowered and set to the max. efficient point.

th car runs machanically sound and i get no oil burn off nor do i get bas gas consumption. (500ish km's highway)


Please give me some insight into this.....before i RIP my k20 :(


--Nick
__________________

Why is column 9 the only one that looks out of place on all of your high cam fuel tables? Also, ignition map seems a little strange as well, compare it to the hondata provided timing maps for your motor to see what I mean..

Hey, maybe you have a Monday or Friday built motor? :)

I say screw it, add boost and retune. :)

Hahahaha. Yeah, I think the problem is possibly the small vaccum leak. I honestly am at my wits end with this car. Its not like i cant go to Acura and tell them "hey, i dyno'd my car and its a piece of shit"

Anyways, i would really like to have the hondata experts chime in here.


here is another WOT datalog

Well, I'm no tuner, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn last night. (OK, not even a Holiday inn, but here it goes)

The first thing that strikes me is that your 'perfect' AFR dips and bobs a little in the beginning, gets up to the 12.0 - 12.2 range for a little bit, then slobbers off to the 11.8 - 12.0 range in the end. I would think max power on a NA car would be in the 12.5 - 13.2 range. If you haven't already played with the AFR on the dyno, it may be time to look into that.

The next thing I see is that your PA sensor is pegged out at 255 kPa. Unless you have an air hose pressurizing the ECU box to the tune of about 37 psi, that is clearly in error. I don't know what effect that would have on the overall tune, but it something isn't right with that reading - and it could indicate other issues. Also makes it a little hard to compare inlet air pressure to atmospheric. Although, I see your MAP is up in the 95-96kPa range and doesn't seem to drop off with RPM, so it wouldn't seem that you have any substantial intake or exhaust restrictions.

Hey dude! thanks for the reply. I havent had much time to tinker with my k-pro, but i will look into this ASAP. I see exactly what you mean. Seems to be or could be the problem. I will try to settle that AF ratio and get you another datalog!


Is the PA sensor inside the ECU? Could this mean that there is a potential short inside my K-pro'd ecu?

-Nick

Edit: I looked into this, that is the standard setting when OBDII is turned off. Something else, of course, the hondata experts must be super busy, since they havent answered my question....please?

Dear Hondata, this thread has been in this fourm for nearly a month, I am really wondering if you are gonig to answer this, or i am just asking the question wrong? I know you have read it cause you have pruned this thread already.

Here is my question, really really simply.

Col. 10 is the power column, yes or no?
If you dont hit col 10 in kmanager, does this mean that you have a manifold leak? Yes or no?

What could be some other various possibly starting points to see why my mbar isnt allowing me to hit column 10 on the high cam?

Depending on your altitude you may not reach column 10. The higher the altitude, the farther from 0 atmospheric pressure you will be.

It is impossible for us to tell you why your engine is not making the desired power level as there are too many factors at play.

have you tried a different dyno? ive gotten extremely low readings on dynos before. i have a sheet next me showing max power at 155. whats the stock k20a2 rated at, 160-170 at the wheels? well by that dyno i should be getting beat by them, however its not even a close race. i completely destroy any stock rsx

MrHobbers wrote:have you tried a different dyno? ive gotten extremely low readings on dynos before. i have a sheet next me showing max power at 155. whats the stock k20a2 rated at, 160-170 at the wheels? well by that dyno i should be getting beat by them, however its not even a close race. i completely destroy any stock rsx

Okay, the Dyno i was on was a dynojet. My friend with a 8.5psi JRSC RSX dyno'd perfectly on his numbers, as well, another friend with 12psi JRSC RSX dyno'd in perfect spec. So the dyno is not an issue. I raced a stock type s with a SRI last weekend and the outcome was far from suprising. I won, but only cause i wa shifting at 8600rpm's and not the stock limiter. We went from a roll of 30km's to about 160...you can see i only won by a nose, and i think i am the better driver too...

I am the Blue car.

**Edit, this video was on a closed circut by professional drivers.

I am going to start fresh with a new tune. I am gonig to take the ITR tune and just perfect my AF and set up tempature compensation. Then i will hit the dyno for a hopefully better improvement. Hondata, please, do you have any input?

Keep us posted how it turns out. Interested to see.