Hondata

ok I have a very wierd problem I can't figure out.

I have an H22a4 in BB6 basically stock expect a few minor bolt ons

now heres the problems I went thru the settings to set the idle speed and when I plug in the IACV and clear the code my idle only goes up to 750 then slowly climbs it's way to 800, now when I adjust the IAC duty cycle I can't ever get it to stop at 850 when I let off the throttle it always dips down to like 780 then raises up to 900 then finally settles at 850 after a few seconds.

also when trying to set the idle when my fans kick on the idle jumps around a tad into high pressure coluums then settles back down, when I turn on my JDM fog lights my short term fuel trim always changes by -3

also the car will not idle at 14.7 the closest I can get it is 15-15.1 in closed loop

right now the closed loop target voltage is 0.47

can any lead me in the right direction on how to set the correct fuel mixture for when the car is idling? right now all my fuel comp and ignition comps are set how they have it in the help files for the S300

The car idles fine and isn't dying out or anything it's just that when I check my Long term fuel adjustments it's always at like -4 after a few days in closed loop, I've been lead to believe that this should be 0%

thanks for your help in advance sorry there is a lot of questions I just finally was able to get a login(never got the e-mails on all my accounts) so I've been trying to firgure this out for a while.

What calibration file did you start out with? I posted up one a while ago and it ran great and idled good. I never had it in closed loop, didn't really need to.

The car was dyno tuned at a shop but, I started to find little things that needed to be improved like the fuel compensations were off as well as on the last run the tuner opened my IAB but I don't believe he retuned for it so I did that on my own as well.

Anyway somethings I have noticed is this only happens when the car is idling for a while and the ECT goes up. When I'm driving around town and the IAT, and ECT as constantly the same it will idle fine.

The surge in idle comes on when the radiator fans are turn on by the motor.

I have to redo that post it's really scatterbrained I was just excited to get actually be able to finally post but I was in a hurry. I'm going to collect some datalogs and repost with my calibration and some datalogs.

Although I did have a few quick questions?

What is the normal target voltage that people set for closed loop mode, I have a Boush OEM replacement 02 that I just recently changed out I have it set at .45v currently and on the freeway I'm cruising at 14.8(it's not 14.7 but I'm figure 0.1 leaner isn't killing the motor) Does 0.45v sound right for a target voltage.

Also what is a good way to calcuatle was temp compensation? right now I have the tables looking excatly like that do in the help file, and they are working pretty good for the most part. But I believe if I could target them down better it will help in solving this problem. In open loop I can get the car to idle at 14.7 so I'm thinking it's a combination of those two things.

Typically the stock compensation tables are what should be used. If you find you need to start making changes, the changes made will be based on your findings from datalogs and real world experience.

Target voltage will depend on what voltage your sensor reads 14.7 AF. You will need to look at the calibration information on the sensor you are using.