Hondata

Well I hope I can get an answer to this.

I have a d16z6 thats turbo'd and all the goodies.

Well I installed my PLX 300 on the s300 and everything worked nice for a while in closed loop.

Recently, when the car is warm, in closed loop the a/f reads between 11 and 12:1........when I take it out of closed loop into open, it reads fine @ ~14.5:1. Other times it runs fine in closed loop reading a good ~14.7:1

Also, sometimes after boosting....not all the time, it starts to get this idle surge going from 900rpm to ~1700rpm......if i blip the throttle sometimes this will calm it down and normally after a while it will fix itself........

what could be the issue? ECU setting? A certain mechanical part on car going bad?

Attached is the current map loaded into the s300

Going to keep an eye on this thread since I have seen this issue many times and yet it remains unsolved.

upload a datalog of the incident please.

will do

KK, heres my first attempt at a datalog haha

early in the log you can see me go through the gears a few times at a low speed, and get into boost just for a minute to try to make the car act stupid.

@ around 1:56 mark is when i get back home in my driveway and you can see the idle surging at that point......then you see me blip the throttle and it finally acts right.....it didn't do it as bad as it does sometimes but it still did it.

i didn't get the idle where it goes super rich since it decided not to do it this time......if yall need it i will try to get it soon.

Try running with it in open loop and see if this continues. If you can't get it to happen again it may be where you're getting your O2 readings or wiring.

If it dosn't stop I would have to see more datalogs.

How do you have the PLX hooked up to the ecu...please give specific pin and wire details.

Spunkster wrote:How do you have the PLX hooked up to the ecu...please give specific pin and wire details.

I followed the PLX directions on the hondata website Method #1.

Voltage reading in the displayed in the sManager seem correct.

All the settings in the sManager are set up as Method #1 with the ELD pin10 checked.

Telling me you have followed the directions is very different than you telling me exactly what wires you actually have connected to. I need the the specifics of how you have it installed.

wires from o2 sensor / pin on ecu

white / d-10
gray / d-14

with the capacitors supplied going from each leg (d-10 and d-14) to ground

again all voltages read in smanager are reading correct.....the narrow band is reading .88 when its running super rich........when closed loop is actually acting right its reading .5ish

same goes for the wideband ELD reading.

I went outside earlier and messed with it some (sat in the car for 15min)

at first the car was super rich (warming up)

once the car got to temp......it acutally found 14.7:1 and stayed there for a bit (like a minute). then the reading on the wideband went lean (about 17:1) without touching anything then RPMS jumped from 900rpm to ~1100 and it went super rich (11:1) and stayed there until i blipped the throttle. then it settled back down to 14:1........then rinse and repeat a few times "lean to rich.....blip throttle.......14:1)

Your long term fuel trim is at about 6%. This is a problem. Proprely tuned it should be zero. Get the tuning better and i'm sure you will find that the car runs better and does not have this problem. Also remove the capacitors....our installation instructions do not say to install them.

There's some kind of discrepency between what your O2 is reading and what the engine is really putting out, closed loop is suppose to find stoich and it seems to keep searching, which means somthing is wrong with the tune or O2 wiring.

thx guys will try to fix it on the dyno

tinytitan wrote:
white / d-10
gray / d-14

Method #1 states grey wire to white wire on O2, not d-14. Is that causing the problem? Or is that the same thing?

I know witht he wideband O2 controllers they have to be re-caliberated every so often on pump and with race about every event. (at least to stay dead accurate is my expirneces and the recomendation sof most sensor builders). Have you tried re-caliberating your sensor? The manual should ovver you directions on caliberation tips and how to's if not.