Hondata

Hi! My car's setup:

B16A2 & P30 OBD1
Garret GT28RS Turbo
RC 550cc injectors
LC-1 wideband with XD16

1. I have recently installed S300 on my ECU, viewed datalog & have a questions about Battergy voltage, S300 is showing about 2V lower than multimeter. For example multimeter shows 14.2V, hondata only 12.2. It is normal?

2. Yesterday i put in my car LC-1 wideband, output 1 to D14, output 2 to D10, at wideband setting in Smanager configured AFR: 0V - 7.35 AFR, 5V - 22.39 AFR, calibrated sensor for first time use & started engine. XD 16 shows for example 14.7 AFR, hondata only about 11.9 AFR. What is problem?

3. Any time Hondata shows O2 voltage 3.75V, but O2 sensor maximum voltage is 1.1V. Why? I have this problem before wideband installed too.

Thanks

1. No. Where were you measuring the voltage with the multimeter? There is a large voltage drop somewhere and you need to isolate where it is. Check the main relay and ground points.

2. The output will not be accurate because of #1

3. Not a problem. The ECU pulls the o2 voltage up to 3.8V so that it can detect the o2 not producing a voltage (eg when cold).

#1
As above check your main relay/grounds had a simular voltage issue in my car which is a kit car, found to be where i was taking my power from was causing the voltage drop, now re-wired via relay etc and is closer to how it would be wired if i was using a hond a loom ie viarelay from the engine bay fuse box

#2
disconect you lc1 and check the V outs, by programing them to flat line, check this is working as it should before moving further, if thery are not flat lining to where you set them you prob have an issue with your lc-1, been there myself, see Innovate documentation!

#3
check your pins/wiring you have probally added/modified to get the WB in D10 and D14, i personally had a duff pin in my harness [chassis side] going into the ecu on 02 which meant it didnt connect proberly causing no readings it had got bent internally intermitantly showing 3.88 Volts.

I have exprianced all your above problems including a LC-1 going belly up and now running a PLX, now having much more succes in tidying up the map for part throttle and under WOT pulls, just need to go to the Dyno now for the last bit of tweaking ,but the little red car is pulling well and doing some good MPG if im sensible..


WEST

History of my troubles:

1. Before engine's rebuilding all was Ok.
2. Engine was rebuilded for turbo: pistons, rods, bearrings...For first start was stock P30 ecu, stock injectos, stock fuelpump.
3. After first engine's run it worked about 2 minutes & then stopped itself. I tried to run engine again, but nothing, only heard strange sound at dashboard, any time fuelpump not started. I have checked all wiring, it seems ok. After numerous attempts engine started & worked ok, but has appeared trouble with tachometer, first time it showed wrong rpm than i pushed accelerate pedal (for example actually was 3000 rpm, tach shows 5000 rpm), when hold accelerate pedal constantly in one position tacho shows right rmps (First time tacho shows wrong rpm only then engine was warmed up). After a few days tacho any time shows 0 rpm, any time jumping around...I have checked all grounds, it seems ok. I have replaced distributor & main relay from another car, but that not helps.
4. Several days ago i have installed S300 in my ECU & datalogged rmps, battery voltage, added boost for P30 stock calibration. When tacho is jumping Hondata shows right rpm, but battery voltage is lower then is. Can anyone help me?

P.S. Sorry for my bad english.

At this time I would suggest taking the vehicle to an electronics diagnostics facility. Since the troubles started before the Hondata system and after the engine swap, there is some kinds of wiring flaw somewhere.

Today measured voltage on Pins A25, B1, A23, A24. At A25 & B1 power was ok, 14.2V, but at A23 & A24 was 2V (must be 0V, grounds). This is a reason what ECU shows 12.2 (14.2-2V). Tomorrow i will recheck once more all grounds, Can anyone say where is ECU ground? At Thermostat?

Today was good day, now engine works fine

1. Trouble with low voltage on ecu - bad groung at thermostat.
2. Engine shuttering - greddy spark plugs 8 to cold with my 9.0 compression engine, with spark plugs 6 engine works fine.