Hondata

How to connect the LM1 or AEM gauge with the PRA ecu to display all in one datalog?
prefer the innovate

thanks

We'll add it to the request list.

Hondata
thanks for adding this option for the PRA ECU's...
as per the help file, it says:
Lambda display selection - select either the built in wideband (available on PRB/PRC/PRD/PND/PNF ECUs), or an external wideband input via the ELD pin. Note in the calibration the ELD pin should be designated as a wideband input (under Parameters / Closed Loop).

there is nothing under Parameter>closed loop!! how do i let the ELD work as wideband?

thanks

You cannot run the car off of an aftermarket wideband in closed loop.

Spunkster wrote:You cannot run the car off of an aftermarket wideband in closed loop.

I think what he's trying to ask how it should be properly wired so it won't burn the k-pro daughterboard(i know this board is very stingy). The car will be part throttle tuned in open loop

For datalogging purposes only you must go to Options, Settings, Wideband Input tab and choose the input you wish to use.

It should read 'under Settings->Wideband Input'.

Spunkster wrote:For datalogging purposes only you must go to Options, Settings, Wideband Input tab and choose the input you wish to use.

Are the conversion tables for the lm-1 accurate or do they need to be adjusted? I've read the lm-1 manual and it does state that 1 input volt=10.0 af and 2 input volts=20.0 af. I just want to make sure its calibrated right so we dont fry the k-pro or the lm-1 for that matter

Where should the sensor get power to eliminate any electrical interference? How many locations should it be grounded?

I'm just doing a process of elimination for him

If the LM1 manual states 1V=10:1 etc, then use those values.

As far as wiring goes, the rule is to use a single ground point for everything in order to prevent ground loops. Unfortuently Honda has put the single ground point on the intake manifold, but that is what should be used. Additional ground points don't help - they make potential ground loops. Power can be sourced anywhere - there are a few spade outputs on the under dash fuse box which work well.

Hondata wrote:If the LM1 manual states 1V=10:1 etc, then use those values.

As far as wiring goes, the rule is to use a single ground point for everything in order to prevent ground loops. Unfortuently Honda has put the single ground point on the intake manifold, but that is what should be used. Additional ground points don't help - they make potential ground loops. Power can be sourced anywhere - there are a few spade outputs on the under dash fuse box which work well.

If i understand correctly, extend the ground wire for the lm-1 to the intake manifold for better grounding?

hardcorersxs wrote: If i understand correctly, extend the ground wire for the lm-1 to the intake manifold for better grounding?

i think i'll try to ground the LM1 to the intake manifold tonight and see.
or should i use the AEM because it has only 1 signal wire to be connected to the ECU? and put the voltage values into the table!

Mr Aryan wrote:

hardcorersxs wrote: If i understand correctly, extend the ground wire for the lm-1 to the intake manifold for better grounding?

i think i'll try to ground the LM1 to the intake manifold tonight and see.
or should i use the AEM because it has only 1 signal wire to be connected to the ECU? and put the voltage values into the table!

I would recommend doing what has been already tried. But by all means,do test and see what you come up with.Make sure you base the voltage vs af correction off the aem pdf file that comes with the uego sensor

please check the attached...
this is how the AFR looks like.
i've connected the analog wire (1v=10, 2v=20) to the ELD pin, and the ground wire to the valve cover..

at idle the LM1 meter was showing 14.6~14.7 with closed loop, while the datalogging was playing up and down!!! and with a little throttle it goes to zero...