Full trottle shift activation

gSIr · Post by **gSIr** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 12:20 pm

Can anyone explain how to hook up FTS through the air conditioning switch and so its on all the time, I don't really understand how it should be hooked up. Reading what everyone has been saying in different threads isn't making sense to me. Thanks for your help

TurboGSR96 · Post by **TurboGSR96** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 8:09 pm

Bump!

DITTO... Not trying to jack the thread in any way but I am in teh same boat as you. I was told I have to ground out the AC switch but nobody knows how to do that bla bla bla. I would also like to use Lauch Control also at the same time as the FTS and eventally use the N20 output also to activate my Alki Injection.

Post by **Spunkster** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:44 am

You can use any switch you want. You are simply usign the inputs on the ecu to do what you want. You will have to wire a switch into the AC input wire which when activated grounds the input wire.

Preccord00 · Post by **Preccord00** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:52 am

In a more detailed explanation, since I did this to my car last week. You're going to be cutting one of the input wires off of the ECU. I personnaly used the power steering pump pressure switch. I spliced in a wire going to my clutch switch, and on the other end I put it to a ground. If you don't cut the wire at the ECU side for power steering pump pressure switch you'll constantly have a ground, so you'll have a constant rev limiter where you set your full throttle shift to drop.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1171263

If you scroll down to some pictures of the ECUs you will see which pin does what on the ECU, and it'll give you an idea of which wire to connect to.

TurboGSR96 · Post by **TurboGSR96** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 11:05 am

Thanks for the great info, I got some work to do. :P

One question though, so if I decide to use the PSP switch (power steering), i am completely removing the wire from the ECU? How does the signal get to my power steering then?

TurboGSR96 · Post by **TurboGSR96** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 12:17 pm

Preccord00 wrote:In a more detailed explanation, since I did this to my car last week. You're going to be cutting one of the input wires off of the ECU. I personnaly used the power steering pump pressure switch. I spliced in a wire going to my clutch switch, and on the other end I put it to a ground. If you don't cut the wire at the ECU side for power steering pump pressure switch you'll constantly have a ground, so you'll have a constant rev limiter where you set your full throttle shift to drop.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1171263

If you scroll down to some pictures of the ECUs you will see which pin does what on the ECU, and it'll give you an idea of which wire to connect to.

I am not trying to be a pain in the ass but I dont get your explanation, you said you "spliced in a wire going to my clutch switch, and on the other end I put it to a ground". So you cut some insulation off the PSP wire and installed an extra wire on it, then ran it to the clutch switch? But you say something about the other end of the wire.... a wire only has 2 ends, the one going to the spliced wire and the other going to the switch..... I am very lost.

Post by **Spunkster** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 12:41 pm

You must cut the wire so it no longer goes to it's original location. It can no longer be used for the original purpose.

you will run a wire from chassis ground to the switch and then to the in put you have selected on the ecu.

Preccord00 · Post by **Preccord00** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:37 pm

what spunk said, in more detail, you have one wire to start with, this wire goes from B8 to the PSP switch, you're dyking it off somewhere between the PSP and the ECU, and then you connect a new wire going to the ECU using the same wire you dyked. You then feed this wire to your clutch pedal switch, you connect that wire to one side of this switch. Next you connect the other side of this switch to a good ground. So now whenever you actuate the clutch you send a ground from one side of the clutch switch to the ECU pin B8.

Preccord00 · Post by **Preccord00** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:44 pm

Keep in mind, anyone that has an OBD2 to OBD1 conversion harness, make sure you're using the pin numbers on the OBD1 connecters, not the OBD2, the pins for each do different things, so make sure you trace the wire to the OBD1 harness before you cut any wires.

TurboGSR96 · Post by **TurboGSR96** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:39 pm

Preccord00 wrote:what spunk said, in more detail, you have one wire to start with, this wire goes from B8 to the PSP switch, you're dyking it off somewhere between the PSP and the ECU, and then you connect a new wire going to the ECU using the same wire you dyked. You then feed this wire to your clutch pedal switch, you connect that wire to one side of this switch. Next you connect the other side of this switch to a good ground. So now whenever you actuate the clutch you send a ground from one side of the clutch switch to the ECU pin B8.

Ok cool, i understand it now except for the term "switch" & "dyked". I just looked at my car and I traced the PS line back to the wirewall and there is a sensor there with a Green & Black Wire, is this the "switch" and that is what has to be cut or should I cut it at the ECU? Also when grounding out this switch/sensor.... doesnt that affect the power steering?

Preccord00 · Post by **Preccord00** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:54 pm

by "Dyked" I mean to cut. A switch is a switch, I don't know of any other way to put that.

I cut mine about 100mm from the ECU.

Basicly the Power Steering Pressure Switch actuates whenever your power steering pump is in use. I believe it lets the ECU know when the pump is in use, that's the basic logic I get out of it.

I'm not 100% sure if the operation of the power steering will be affected, I think it's just there to let the ECU know when it should be adding a little extra fuel/air in to the engine to compensate for the HP the pump is stealing. My power steering pump is removed as of right now due to the engine swap I did, so it made no difference to me.

A good way to test and see if it's effected would be to remove the pin from the harness and drive around, see if you notice a difference, and then put it back and decide if it's worth it.

And you're not grounding out the sensor, you're removing it from the ECU, that sensors information will no longer be used, instead the line to the ECU will be entirely used as an on/off switch via the clutch pedal to tell hondata when to set your full throttle shift rev limiter.

TurboGSR96 · Post by **TurboGSR96** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:22 pm

I know this sketch is wrong, I just cant picture in my head what is being said :roll: Can you complete or correct this for me.....

Preccord00 · Post by **Preccord00** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:22 am

Here's an extremly simplified diagram.

TurboGSR96 · Post by **TurboGSR96** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 12:06 pm

Ok great, I just leave the wire from the PSP sensor unhooked and run the ECU to the clutch switch and ground out the other side of the clutch switch to complete the circuit.

gSIr · Post by **gSIr** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:13 pm

I finally get it also, but of course we should leave the wires that are already hooked up the the clutch switch alone, we are just adding a wire to the positive side of the switch