solid/stale CEL (no code)
Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 1:07 pm
well guys basically I have a stale CEL. I'm running JRSC/nitrous with Hondata s200b w/nitrous control and a p28 ECU. The car is an EM1 (99 Civic Si).
Prior to the stale CEL I had a true CEL which was a code 43 (fuel supply), so I replaced my o2 sensor and reset the battery. Now the CEL is on but there is no code, and the CEL turns on after I start the car (it is not on when the key is on the number 2 position).
When I short the service connector with the key on the number 2 position, the CEL turns on, but does not flash, and turns off again once I remove the paperclip from the service connector.
I've heard that it can be a bad ECU from a result of a "cold solder." So I opened up my ECU and it looks like new. I don't know anything about soldering... so how can I determine a "cold solder?" Should I swap it with my stock P2T real quick? I'm running 440cc injectors. If I swap ECU's (P2T or any stock OBD1 ECU), will the motor run pig rich because the ECU is not calibrated to operate with 440cc injectors?
The Hondata blue box shows a solid red light and DOES NOT blink, so I think that is still good. I also tried to see if it was just my fuel cap (someone else suggested), so I filled it up with gas, replaced the cap fully, disconnected the battery and the CEL still lights up with no code upon startup.
Other than the light being on, the car runs REAL good. Opened it up on the freeway and it pulls great. :P Also, I don't have a laptop or hondalogger...
Any ideas or suggestions?
Prior to the stale CEL I had a true CEL which was a code 43 (fuel supply), so I replaced my o2 sensor and reset the battery. Now the CEL is on but there is no code, and the CEL turns on after I start the car (it is not on when the key is on the number 2 position).
When I short the service connector with the key on the number 2 position, the CEL turns on, but does not flash, and turns off again once I remove the paperclip from the service connector.
I've heard that it can be a bad ECU from a result of a "cold solder." So I opened up my ECU and it looks like new. I don't know anything about soldering... so how can I determine a "cold solder?" Should I swap it with my stock P2T real quick? I'm running 440cc injectors. If I swap ECU's (P2T or any stock OBD1 ECU), will the motor run pig rich because the ECU is not calibrated to operate with 440cc injectors?
The Hondata blue box shows a solid red light and DOES NOT blink, so I think that is still good. I also tried to see if it was just my fuel cap (someone else suggested), so I filled it up with gas, replaced the cap fully, disconnected the battery and the CEL still lights up with no code upon startup.
Other than the light being on, the car runs REAL good. Opened it up on the freeway and it pulls great. :P Also, I don't have a laptop or hondalogger...
Any ideas or suggestions?