Hondata

WE have had issues on my friends car with the car cutting out and high rpms, and we have messed with everything. Well the other day i just now noticed that when it starts doing this, at the exact same time...the red light in the hondata blue box cuts off and when he lets off it turns back on? eh. weve had it tuned a few times and they have never said anything about it to us...and i think its because today i figured out that if i hold the box in my hand, it wouldnt do it nearly as much..it was in the glove compartment vibrating like a mofo. and when it was tuned it was on a dynapack that doesnt vibrate like the streets do. still though it cuts out in my hand but not nearly as bad, i didnt try holding it at any special angles though. one times it cut off and when it came back on it was flashing in side of it which was only one time. another problem is one of the wires came out of a pin in the 4 wire black plug on the box, i had to stick the wire down in the plug and fold it around and plug it onto the plug to make it work...trying to find a replacement black plug to splice in. whats the problem with this Blue box. its a hondata s200b, boost option yadda yadda. This as been going on for months. Connections to jumpers have been checked and are fine. is the ZIF under the knock board in the ecu able to come loose over time...or if now closed down all the way. would that cause this problem cause i just now thought of that.

It could be the ECU, ROM, s200 or wiring. Either try substituting each component until you narrow down the problem, or you can send the whole lot to us to check, if you wish.

where can i get a replacement black 4 wire plug that plugs into the s200. how can i substitute the ecu out, id have to have another chipped, or can i use a p30 that was chipped...same rom chip?

well what does the flashing light mean? i dont know how this hondata stuf works, or what is programmed in the blue box or anything. just trying to figure out where theres power being cut to the box. its just been chilling in the glove box for a year. if the EEPROM came loose in the ecu, would it cut the power to the blue box>?

I would send it back to Hondata for analysis. If it's been sliding around in a glovebox for a year, my money is on a loose connection inside.

still cutting off, only at high rpm like after 6000 and 13psi or so and higher...the box just TURNS OFF. what do i have to do after i unplug the blue box to be able to drive the car cause when we unplug it it just rev limits at like 3 or 4k. might have switch engine management unless the box is covered under transferrable more than a year or so warranty.

Cut jumper J1 in the ECU to return to the stock program.

Hey, I think I've been having a similar problem with my Hondata s200. I've been getting what feels like boost cut for the last few weeks, it just cuts out suddenly like I've hit a brick wall.

My blue box is in the glove box and I haven't noticed that it flashes at the time the cut happens (tho I will check next time) but I've seen the red light flashing on the blue box before - what does this mean? Does it give out fault codes? What is the correct state, ie should it be constant red light?

The 4 pin connectors can be purchased from any dealer for 15.00.

If your car is boosted and using a stock map sensor, you may be hitting the boost cut. depending on your tuner, they may have also set a different boost cut. (i.e. 13psi, even though you have a 3 bar map sensor or 9psi if you have a stock one)...I do it for some customers as a request.

Silverbeast wrote:The 4 pin connectors can be purchased from any dealer for 15.00.

If your car is boosted and using a stock map sensor, you may be hitting the boost cut. depending on your tuner, they may have also set a different boost cut. (i.e. 13psi, even though you have a 3 bar map sensor or 9psi if you have a stock one)...I do it for some customers as a request.

It was the 250$ SPOON PLUG WIRES, the outside SS casing was shorting out on the VTEC SOLENOID!!!!!! couldnt even see it. set of NGK and shes dynoing 385 at 16 and some change PSI. box still cuts off at high rpm but nothing happens, and i mean after about 7000 the little internal led cuts off. weird? can a wastegate spring get tired and not hold boost anymore. its a 1 bar spring and the absolute max weve gotten out of it is 18 psi even with the boost controller turned all the way in evry form and fashion and there is no boost cut set