Hondata

my cars been at autowave for the past week. application is a jrsc civic si b16a2@11.5 psi with the mvm stepper pulley with hondata S2B and RC 550s. Mike is the tuner if your fimiliar with him and we've been trying to diagnose a tuning problem@WOT for the past week. day one of tuning resulted in 127whp and disappointing problems. i have not been there for the other 5 days, but, Shawn at autowave has been calling me everday about the results.
anyways, idle and acceleration is fine except@WOT, where there is bogging in boost. before the tune, we put in some colder plugs. our first problem was that we were amazed that the stepper pulley put out almost 12 psi, so, we swapped to the 3 bar map in. it still did not solve the problem so, we checked the cap, rotor, and coil. they were all getting toasted, so, we replaced them.................it didnt solve the problem. i remember the cat was clogged so they dropped out the cat and it seemed to free up a bit. we cleared the cat up a bit and the problem is still persisting@WOT under boost. We popped the valve cover and found a few tight valves, so, we adjusted them. compression and leakdown shows two cylinders are a little weak, but, not life threatning. after $748 on the dyno, im just going to bring the car back home tommorrow morning and start troubleshooting myself to save time and money. Ill give the TPS a look when it gets here. gonna check all wiring from the ecu to under the hood.

im also thinking, weak valve springs. i found a set of oem valve springs and retainers. i think i might pick em up and see what goes on with that too. i was also thinking timing belt, but, that is a long shot. maybe vacuum leaks, but, vac gauge shows a steady 20inhg at idle? also, the JR FMU is still connected, but, with the vac source unplugged from the fmu and fuel lines still running in and out to the stock fpr. source of vacuum is also plugged. gonna spend my weekend checking all sensors and wiring.


What can the problem be. the tuning seems fine, the blower seems fine. I thought of belt slippage, but, there is no drop in boost.

try running the car without the cat to see if that frees it up

remove the JR fpr, and use the stock 1:1 fpr

remove all JR electronics in cluding the IAT relay

Make sur eyou are using the MAP relocator so that the ecu is actually seeing boost

did all that spunkster including gutting out the clogged cat.

heres todays update.

i have oem cam gears.

Couldnt get any printouts or postable info today when i picked up the car because Mike wasnt in today. Ill call him monday when he's back in, because, still have to pick up some of my stock parts frm him. Im not a hondata expert, but, do all tuners save hondata info on there lap tops? I wanted to post whatever results for you experienced folks out there . anyways................Ill tell it from a lamen person's way.

Shawn told me that the tuning was good. AFs are at 12.0s. the only problem is from the studdering and bogging from WOT. Idle and acceleration (including acclerating into boost without WOT is good).

My first drive was awesome. The idle was good. With the hondata on, there is no more detonation, the car runs smooth in all rpm ranges (before, it occasionally studders at low rpms and feels lack of power), my vtec engagement is so much more noticable and felt, the car feels like a new animal (in a very good way ) Ive never really experienced or even imagined my car to run so smooth.

now, enough of the good stuff, lets get going with the bad. In WOT, the boost gauge climbs and holds steady @ 11psi. Power is still felt, speed and and rpms are increasing. During all this at WOT, you can feel the car studder and bog a bit at full boost in WOT. At almost 12 psi, i would expect much better than this. it feels like 6 psi.

I will definately checked all of what you had said Jim, but, I also have something strange to share. Before the hondata, I had a walbro 255 high pressure fuel pump installed and changed out the fuel filter at the same time. Ever since that day, my fuel pressure gauge has been reading 70 psi at idle and static with the JR FMU. Now that the hondata is in, the gauge still reads 70 psi at idle (PS: How do i check static with the hondata on?) Im thinking it will also read 70 psi. If this is the case, could it be the f
uel pressure gauge messing up, or is it something else? What would cause the fuel pressure to read so high? Also, where should ignition timing be set at @ idle?

As spunkster said, remove ALL of the JR extra crap completely (FMU, IAT enrichment relay, etc). Also, when using thehigh pressure Walbro 255lph, it easily overpowers the stock regulator, making it hard to maintain a lower fuel pressure, but the tuner should be able to work around this by altering injector duty cycle or replacing the regulator. What does the air/fuel ratio look like at WOT just before/when it starts to run poorly?

UPDATE
fuel pressure is still at 70 psi in idle (when the car is just sitting there and running) and static (when i remove the vacuum nipple off the fpr) with the fmu off completely off. took it for a test drive and nothings changed. maybe i need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator for my walbro 255lph high pressure fuel pump?

The OEM map sensor is still in its original place and its connector unplugged and an open vacuum nipple, which is replaced by the 3 bar map. The TPS and MAP sensors are in the correct places. I have still have not yet checked the voltage on the TPS because i dont have a voltage reader. its reading is in DC...........correct?

I checked ignition timing with my timing gun and it is set at 15 btdc. funny thing is that there are random 1/2 second pauses in the flashes of the timing gun as though something is skipping. ive never seen this before. is this normal with the hondata in?

i will replace my ngk spark plug wires with oem ones and a new fuel filter to see if that changes anything on monday (honda is closed on sundays ) tommorrow i will double check the wires i chopped off and resoldered when i removed all the JR band-aids.

I would look into another regulator to drop the pressure, as that may be part of your problem.. Have you checked the datalogging to make sure that the map sensor is reading correctly, (verified with a boost/vacuum gauge)?

locash wrote:I would look into another regulator to drop the pressure, as that may be part of your problem.. Have you checked the datalogging to make sure that the map sensor is reading correctly, (verified with a boost/vacuum gauge)?

what exactly is the voltage reading suppose to be at on the 3 bar map for boost? i have the vacuum readings, but, what is boost?