Hondata

Hi everyone,

I’m reaching out here because I’ve reached a key point in my project and I need some help to achieve the first start of my Honda Civic Type R FK2 (2016 – K20C1 engine).

Background:
The original block cracked between cylinders 2 and 3. Over the past 4 years I’ve been rebuilding the engine and upgrading it step by step. I took my time (work and other projects in between), but now I’m getting impatient to finally hear it run again.

I’ve installed a jailbroken ECU + Hondata FlashPro. At this stage, I’m not trying to push power, just looking for a safe base calibration that allows the engine to start without flooding or wrong MAF readings. Any advice or guidance would be very welcome!

Build details

Engine / internals

Saenz S-Series rods + Wiseco HD forged pistons (86 mm, stock bore)

Darton MID iron sleeves

4P 625+ Extreme Duty head studs

Cometic MLS 0.028” head gasket + HP shim

CNC ported head (PPR) with reinforced valves & springs

Ballade Sports camshafts (FK2/FK8)

Ferrea aluminum-magnesium rocker arms (VTEC delete)

4P ported high-flow oil pump

ATI Super Damper crank pulley

4P crank lock + upgraded fasteners

Fuel system

XDI 1400cc injectors (Gen1, 4Piston)

XDI FK2/FK8 high-flow HPFP

Deatschwerks 340 LPH in-tank fuel pump

Injector Dynamics F750 fuel filter

Custom PTFE 8AN fuel lines

Intake / boost

4P billet intake manifold V1

Ballade Sports 70 mm throttle body

PRL High Volume Big Bore intake kit + 500 g/s MAF sensor

PRL P700 drop-in turbo

Injen + PRL Big Bore hard pipes

HF-Series intercooler (FK2)

HKS SQV IV BOV

Ignition / electronics

MSD Blaster coils

NGK Ruthenium plugs (gapped 0.60 mm)

Hondata FlashPro + MAF500 upgrade

Exhaust

Wagner 200 cell sport cat exhaust

Ego-X full 3” exhaust (front section wrapped with Black Lava heat wrap)

Cooling / ancillaries

Tegiwa aluminum radiator

Mishimoto racing thermostat

Forge red silicone hoses

Radium dual catch can kit

Forge Motorsport oil cooler kit (AN10 lines)

My request

Could anyone guide me on:

Base injector/HPFP settings for XDI 1400cc injectors + XDI pump so the car can start.

How to correctly configure the MAF 500 g/s sensor in FlashPro (I don’t see the classic “MAF tables” as shown in some FK8 tutorials).

Key points to check for the first startup (fuel trims, lambda, AFR targets, etc.).

I understand that these injectors are near the limits of what Hondata supports, and that idle/cruise may not be perfect. But for now my goal is simply to get the engine running safely and confirm the build.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can share advice or experience 🙏
After 4 years of work, I can’t wait to bring this car back to life!

one suggestion - start out with the stock MAF sensor - trying to get the MAF500 dialed in with the PRL HVI RACE MAF housing will be more challenging. The stock MAF is good for ~600whp in combination with the PRL HVI RACE MAF.

If you want to hear it running ASAP you can disconnect the MAF sensor and let the ECU operate in speed density mode. You will see codes (which can be defeated in FPM) but it should run reasonably well as long as everything else is good. Then once you know everything is good mechanically you can reconnect the MAF sensor and get it dialed in with the MAF tune.

also, did you get an unlock code for the HPFP? If not, you'll need one. If so, you should be able to use the XDI pump mods and set the injector size to 1400cc for your base values.

jeffx wrote: Tue Sep 16, 2025 8:21 am one suggestion - start out with the stock MAF sensor - trying to get the MAF500 dialed in with the PRL HVI RACE MAF housing will be more challenging. The stock MAF is good for ~600whp in combination with the PRL HVI RACE MAF.

If you want to hear it running ASAP you can disconnect the MAF sensor and let the ECU operate in speed density mode. You will see codes (which can be defeated in FPM) but it should run reasonably well as long as everything else is good. Then once you know everything is good mechanically you can reconnect the MAF sensor and get it dialed in with the MAF tune.

also, did you get an unlock code for the HPFP? If not, you'll need one. If so, you should be able to use the XDI pump mods and set the injector size to 1400cc for your base values.

Hi Jeff,

Thanks a lot for your suggestion 🙏 It really helped. Yesi have unlocked hpfp with the code.

I reinstalled the stock MAF sensor and set the injectors to 1400cc, and… magic – the car actually started!

However, here is what I’m seeing:

Idle is very low, around 500–600 rpm.

Engine stumbles a lot with popping/backfire sounds in the intake.

Strong smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust.

To troubleshoot, I took the initiative of looking into FK8 calibrations with PRL Big Bore and copied over the following tables into my FK2 file:

Warm Up Fuel

Warm Up Fuel (Split Inj)

HPFP Feed Forward Offset

I then made two datalogs:

First Start (stock MAF, injectors 1400cc) Second Start with FK8 elements (tables copied as above) On the second attempt, the stumbling was much reduced and there were almost no misfires, though it still smells heavily of fuel.

One more issue: the accelerator pedal is not responding at all – pressing it does nothing.

Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction! If you have any further suggestions, I’d be really grateful and will try them out right away.

can you also post your calibration file?

Sure, thanks for your help! 🙏
I’m attaching my current calibration file here.
At the last test, i have logged the "five" folder

Victory – she finally started! 🚗🔥

I managed to get the FK2 to start properly by creating a FK8 map, specifying all my mods in the Hondata support form, and then copying all the tables I could into the FK2 map (which I’m attaching here).

Obviously there’s still plenty of fine-tuning needed, but overall I got her to start, idle gently around 1000–1200 rpm, and complete the first warm-up. 🎉

A huge thank you to jeffx for pointing me in the right direction! 🙏 If you have any advice on how I could adjust this map further, I’m all ears – this was my very first time doing something like this!

Of course, the final calibration will be done by a pro, but here in France the FK2 is really uncommon, and especially with this amount of mods, it’s hard to find someone local with the right experience…

Fk2*From*France wrote: Fri Sep 19, 2025 7:27 am Victory – she finally started! 🚗🔥

I managed to get the FK2 to start properly by creating a FK8 map, specifying all my mods in the Hondata support form, and then copying all the tables I could into the FK2 map (which I’m attaching here).

Obviously there’s still plenty of fine-tuning needed, but overall I got her to start, idle gently around 1000–1200 rpm, and complete the first warm-up. 🎉

A huge thank you to jeffx for pointing me in the right direction! 🙏 If you have any advice on how I could adjust this map further, I’m all ears – this was my very first time doing something like this!

Of course, the final calibration will be done by a pro, but here in France the FK2 is really uncommon, and especially with this amount of mods, it’s hard to find someone local with the right experience…

Awesome! I had actually made a calibration for you with the AFM sensor values from the FK8 PRL HVI RACE (big bore) but I see you already figured that out.

are you able to drive the car now? if so you need to drive around to get it fully warmed up and make sure it gets into the fuel status 2 (it will say CLOSED on the FPM display for fuel status). Then start a datalog using the flashpro hardware logging (press the log button once to start the datalogging, then press it again when you've completed your logging). Then save this file to your computer with flashpro manager.

the data you need to collect will be a combination of driving, with working your way through the rpm range at a stable pace - no big boost at first - in fact try to keep it from spooling at all for the early stages. Use smooth and steady throttle inputs, put it in comfort or sport mode (or whichever mode has a nice and conservative throttle map). get a solid 15-20 minutes of this kind of driving data per logfile and then start looking at the data using the X-Y graph in flashpro manager. You want to plot S.Trim vs AFM.v. Also look at L.Trim vs AFM.v. Then the stuff on the Hondata help page will hopefully make more sense.

Thank you so much Jeff for your reply and advice 🙏🙏🙏

At the moment the car is still on the lift, because I’m having an issue with the clutch. As soon as I get that sorted and I can drive it, I’ll follow exactly your method to collect the logs and come back with the files. Hopefully I’ll be able to do that sometime next week.

Once again, a huge thank you – really, your guidance helps me a lot and confirms what I had already started to think about doing.

Quick update — the car is finally off the lift and driving! 🎉

I managed to do three short runs and recorded datalogs each time. I’m attaching 3 logs and 2 maps:

Map "test 3" → used for Log 1 and Log 2

Then I pulled over, made Map "test 4" on the roadside → used for Log 3

⚙️ Issues & Context

I still have a few non-engine faults (TPMS, traction, etc.).
The steering wheel was turned several times while the rack wasn’t connected, so I think the clock-spring ribbon inside the steering wheel got damaged. I’ll fix that at Honda tomorrow.

Now about the engine calibration:
I’m seeing a VTC error that puts the engine into limp mode.
For reference, I’m running Ballade Sports camshafts with Ferrea aluminum–magnesium roller rockers, which delete the VTEC mechanism on the exhaust side.
I also installed a VTC locking pin in the cam gears (similar to what 4Piston does on their TR2 builds) to limit phasing movement.

In my map, I’ve limited the VTC intake cam angle to 20° max, which should be safe, but in the datalogs I still see actual intake cam advance up to 34°, and that seems to trigger the fault.

❓ VTEC question

Since the Ferrea rockers completely remove the VTEC switching, what’s the best way to disable VTEC in the calibration?
Would it be correct to simply set all VTEC tables to 0 in FlashPro, or is there another recommended way to deactivate it properly?

After 4 years off the road (and 2 years rebuilding), I can’t describe how amazing it feels to drive it again!
If you have time to take a look at the logs and share your thoughts, I’d be extremely grateful.

Attachments: Log 1, Log 2, Log 3 + Map 3, Map 4

Thanks again Jeff — your help and advice have been invaluable 🙏

Hi all

Here is the log of 4 & 5 RoadCruise.

Thanks in advance for your analyst !

Salut ,pourrai tu me donner les ref de t'est bougie NGK Ruthenium plugs. merci

Fk2*From*France wrote: Mon Oct 20, 2025 1:17 pm Quick update — the car is finally off the lift and driving! 🎉
...
Now about the engine calibration:
I’m seeing a VTC error that puts the engine into limp mode.
For reference, I’m running Ballade Sports camshafts with Ferrea aluminum–magnesium roller rockers, which delete the VTEC mechanism on the exhaust side.
I also installed a VTC locking pin in the cam gears (similar to what 4Piston does on their TR2 builds) to limit phasing movement.

In my map, I’ve limited the VTC intake cam angle to 20° max, which should be safe, but in the datalogs I still see actual intake cam advance up to 34°, and that seems to trigger the fault.

note that in the flashpro world, positive values for the cam tables is actually cam timing retard. negative values indicate advance. So the 34 degrees you're seeing is actually fully retarded on the intake side.

As you can see in the 3rd Roulage logfile you're not getting any cam movement at all - both cams are sitting at their "base" or maybe you could say "default" positions. This is due to the P0014 DTC that's been recorded. In a VTC fault condition, the cams will be in the fully retarded state for the intake side and fully advanced state on the exhaust side. Technically I believe it should be +30 degrees on the intake and -25 on the exhaust side but in reality it's always a few more degrees retarded on both sides (at least on the logs I've seen), so what you're seeing is a result of the fault. In your case it's +33 and -23 as the "base" positions on the command side and +34 and -22 on the actual values.

❓ VTEC question

Since the Ferrea rockers completely remove the VTEC switching, what’s the best way to disable VTEC in the calibration?
Would it be correct to simply set all VTEC tables to 0 in FlashPro, or is there another recommended way to deactivate it properly?

On this one, I'm not sure what the "best" or "right" way to do it would be. Hopefully someone with VTEC-delete experience will chime in here. In the absence of that, I would probably start with zeroing out the table and if that causes problems, flip it around and make it all 1s.

After 4 years off the road (and 2 years rebuilding), I can’t describe how amazing it feels to drive it again!
If you have time to take a look at the logs and share your thoughts, I’d be extremely grateful.

Attachments: Log 1, Log 2, Log 3 + Map 3, Map 4

Thanks again Jeff — your help and advice have been invaluable 🙏

You're welcome, I'm glad I could be of assistance!