Hondata

Here's the build:
-Replacement sleeves
-Arias pistons with rings/pins 87mm, 11.00
-Scat H beam rods with big bolts
-Portflow springs and ti retainers
-Supertech Stainless Valves Set
- RPM R & R Block (Machining, Main Bearing, Rod Bearings, Polish, Assembly)
-OE Gasket Kit
-Greddy Timing Belt (No balancer) for adjustable cam gear
-OE Oil Pump
-ARP Head Studs
-Head R & R (Valve job, Deck, Valve Seals)
-Skunk2 stage two cams
-skunk2 cam gears.
-P28 hondata s100
-Skunk2 intake
-NOS conversion plumbing kit to direct port nitrous kit.
-EGT probe for Zeitronix wideband datalogger
-New ceramic coating on header
-Hondata heatshield gasket
-AEM fuel filter
-Walbro 190 LPH
-B&M fpr with Endyn mod.
-MSD 6AL
-A host of nitrous accessories.

I want to break in the motor before I get the p28 tuned. I understand the base map is over rich. I can take out fuel using a VAFC that I plan to take off after the tuning. The tuner is about an hour away and I am planning on a 1000 mile break in. Change oil at 250. 4000 rpm to 400 miles 4500 rpm to 500, 5000 rpm to 600, etc. I have a spoon chipped p13 on there now but I'd rather take the egr and ks off.

Is the base map unsuitable for engine break in?

In closed loop you probably will run about the right a/f ratio, but our recommendation would be to drive straight to the dyno and check the a/f. You don't need to put the engine under full load or high rpm to do that. After spending all the time and effort on the engine you want it to run correctly.

I'd reconsider your break in method - it is the old school way of looking at break in, which is not suitable for new engines. There is very little that needs to be broken in - really only the rings. Stock rings should lap in to 0.5% leakdown in about 30 minutes, as long as your bores are straight. After market rings take many times as long as stock rings and need more load, but can reach 0.5% leakdown after a few hours. Too little load is worse than too much - once the bore is worn smooth, lapping of the ring ceases so you'd better put the ring under enough load to lap it while the cross hatch is on the bore still.

I break in my engines with regular oil at about 80% load / 2000-5000 rpm for 10 minutes, then 100% load and 2000-6000 rpm for another 20 minutes, then dump the oil and replace with an ester based oil. Then onto the dyno and 8800 rpm. Normal leakdown is less than 0.5% and there is a substantial power gain from this break in method. Compare this with people who baby the engine so that the rings never seat and the engine uses oil - there have been a bunch of K20 Civic engines in the UK which have actually run out of oil in the first 1000 miles because the owners there are into the gentle break in approach.

Thank you for your response. I have been debating the "hard" break-in vs. the "soft" break-in based largely on this article http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and your response helps sway the decision, though I already have 150 miles on the motor.

I have a wideband data logger and tested the a/f under part throttle. At a high idle of 1000 a/f was 14.2. Driving between two to four thousand rpm resulted in an a/f range of about 13.5 to 14.5. Interestingly, the mixture got richer, down to 12, when I first let off the gas before liening. The a/f seems fine but unfortunately the cel is on and I can't pull a code. This has me concerned though I just found that one of the vacuum plugs had come off the nipple in the back. Still, you'd think I could pull a code.

Tomorrow I'm going to change the oil and ecu and do some hard pulls, keeping an eye on the a/f.