Hondata

2006 JDM K24a swap RWD car with S2000 transmission.
Serial #61773(?)
Software 4.6.0.0
ECU PPA-A58 (2004 auto CRV)
KManager 4.6.0
Purchased from Kpower in June 2022 iirc, I sent the ecu to them.

Mods - custom 4-2-1 header and 3" exhaust w/race cat, Kpower RWD intake, Kpower 74mm TB w/Acuity TPS, 3.5" intake, DW 550cc injectors(17U-08-0550-4), 50deg VTC(14310-RBC-003), K20 oil pump.

Engine - 06 JDM K24a bought from an importer. Compression 185-190 all four. Replaced valve stem seals, all gaskets(oem), timing chain/tensioner/guides(oem), new RBB valve(15830-RBB-003), new iacv(16022-RAA-A01), new genuine Denso o2(234-9005), NGK plugs 6994 - IZFR6K, and the MAP and IAT sensors came with the K24. I have grounds all over the engine. The block to the battery, block to the chassis 2x, timing cover to the chassis, timing cover to the valve cover, and the wire harness ground is on the head using one of the M6 bolts above the water outlet housing. ***All honda parts are OEM except the IACV which is a generic.

The harness and sub harness are from TRC(ebay). I have an adapter harness for the crank position sensor. The TRC harness has the TDC and CPS plugs backwards I believe, I get an error code if the TDC is connected to the exhaust and CPS to the intake cam sensors. I used hybrid racing's wiring guide for the sub harness, the TRC harness came with a copy of it.

I'm using the TSX 04-05 Stock provided map with minor adjustments like a 900rpm idle, corrected injector voltage compensation, all five misc ECU options off, disable ign retard when cold is on, no speed sensor is selected. The throttle is mapped, VTC is enabled, VTEC oil p switch disabled. Closed loop tab, "built in wideband - PRB..." is selected, all other options are off.

Initially I started the engine forgetting to map my throttle and adjust the injector voltage comp. It ran, poorly, and idled around 1300. The O2 sensor was functioning correctly, bouncing around between 12.5 and 17 when I blipped the throttle and drove it briefly down the block. After reading some more and watching startup videos I realized my error and made those two changes. Now it fires up and attempts to idle close to the 900 I set it at, but the AF ratio is messed up. The AF immediately goes red to 10.x and the car idles very rough. It tries to correct it and eventually the AF shoots up to 20:1 or greater and the S.trim to 47%. If I blip the throttle it lags, jumps, then drops very low. This last time it died after blipping, previous times when I let it idle for a bit it eventually threw P1166 after 60-120sec.

I have checked all of my relays and fuses. All relays click on. I thought it was an issue with the O2 sensor so I bought another genuine Denso from Autozone. This made no difference. I checked the pins on the O2 sensor and there was continuity all the way to connector A download/file.php?mode=view&id=21602

I also noticed the EVAP system has "supported" next to it. I can't find anything that turns it off, is this part of the problem?
download/file.php?mode=view&id=21603

It wouldn't let me add more than five attachments in the first message.

and last uploads that might help.

Plugs all look like this. They're new and I checked the gap before installing. Coils came with the motor. I can't recall the resistance, but they were all very similar and close to what I saw other people measure.

Sorry for the deluge of posts. I can't seem to edit the posts now to add a bit of additional information.

This is my first Honda engine and first experience "tuning" one. I don't have another car to test the ecu in and I don't know anyone with a car I could test the ecu in. My goal is to get the car running so I can put some miles on it to test everything else I've changed on it, then take it to a tuner for professional tuning.

Are you using an aftermarket or OEM wideband input?

First, can someone confirm the only function of the oil pressure switch on the side of the block(one wire, bullet connector) is to warn if the oil pressure drops below 20psi or so? I have a sender I'd like to use with my factory gauge, but that would mean removing the oil pressure switch.

OEM denso 234-9005, brand new $192(not ebay $60 fake), connected to the "swap harness" and under "closed loop" "Built in wideband-PRB, PND, PNF" is selected.

I wish I could change the title. I now don't believe the o2 sensor is malfunctioning, rather it's something with the idle and quick throttle changes. I'm not sure why it threw the 1166 code previously, it hasn't thrown any o2 codes since. I have played around with fueling and S-trim percentages for four to five hours. To idle the engine seems to need a ton of fuel in column 3-5, rpm 500-1000. If I do this, the engine idles better immediately on startup and doesn't drop below ~900 on throttle blips, but after 30sec or so the S-trim kicks in and the idle jumps up to 1250-1300. If I let it idle, usually col 3 @1300, and collect data points, adjust the fuel based on the s-trim #, then upload/run again it doesn't seem to fix the fueling. The only way I was able to get it to idle low was to cut the S-trim down to 20% max and up the fueling at 750-1000rpm, but then the AFR was around 20 and it stumbled/struggled on throttle blips. If I turned the S-trim down to 10 it would die on throttle blips.

My o2 sensor is after the 2-1 final merge in a 2.5-3" expansion cone, roughly 36" from the head and 12" ahead of the race cat. It's in roughly the same location and orientation(vertical) as this https://1320performance.com/cdn/shop/fi ... 1696667668 s2000 header.

Here's my most recent run. The file is built off the pre-loaded 04-05 K24 91 tune.

Other things I have tried today.
-disable IACV & block off IACV hoses. It ran much worse
-disconnect FPR vac line(radium rail mounted FPR). Ran better, AFRs dropped from 19 to 16 with no other changes or throttle input.
-fuel pressure is constant at 44psi while idling with FPR vac line disconnected