Hondata

Greetings,

I have been working on some racecars for the local endurance scene and have been asked numerous times if it is possible to use a Haltech iC-7 or iC-10 with S300 as they would rather not switch to Haltech 1500 standalone since they already have S300? I have not seen any proof or video or confirmation that anyone has gotten this configuration to work correctly, but I would think it should be possible. Some deep diving into forums have some people saying that they have a working setup but have not posted any proof of a working system or instructions on how they did so. I know of successful (with proof) systems using MoTeC dashes using the Hondata configuration files, but nothing for Haltech.

From my experiences so far (with KProv4), it seems it is more of an issue of communication CANBUS channel naming and selection on the iC-7/iC-10 end that needs a configuration on the dash itself, but I have not found any Hondata configuration files that work on the Haltech dash. I am not aware how to convert the MoTeC mapping files from Hondata to the Haltech dash as I have little experience (currently) doing such a thing.

Using a KProv4 with both Serial and CANBUS and have not been successful to get it to work. I suspect there is a problem with my serial output on my board, but I am confident the CANBUS communication is working. I have properly terminated both the Haltech Dash (software toggle) and the Kprov4 (with resistor) and have checked resistances and continuity across the harness and found it to be correct and within spec. I have tried to communicate over MoTeC "Hundred" and "M1" protocols but have never got them to communicate to each other successfully.

Where should I do next to work on these iC-7/10 dashes for use with a S300?

What protocol is the Haltech looking for?

From my hands-on use and what I could grab on the internet, the Haltech iC-7 (not sure for the iC-10) has comparability for following protocols:

* Haltech Proprietary V1 (E8/E11 Haltech ECU with old firmware)
* Haltech Proprietary V2 CAN (Most Platinum and Elite Haltech ECU)
* OBD-II - standard OBD-II universal CAN protocols (not sure the exact ones that are supported tho)
* Link ECUs
* MicroTech ECUs
* MoTec M1 Series ECU Protocol
* MoTeC "hundred" Series Protocol (M400, 600, 800, "gold box")[/list]

I am not sure how to send data to the iC-7 through serial though, but apparently it does support it but I believe the wiring kit that mine came with only has 4 pins out of the entire socket populated. There are variants that have more connections (and even a full analog sensor input version).

The rumors I have heard is that M1 or Hundred series will/should work on both S300 and KProv4, but you need to configure the correct CAN channels in the configuration file on the Haltech iC-7 (located on USB drive that appears when you connect it to a PC). No information was provided in any posts related to the configuration that was consistent. I know that the MoTeC configuration files could be used, but I have no idea how to convert them to work with the iC-7 configuration.

The iC-7 can be configured with Haltech's ICC software, but there are also plaintext files on a USB storage device that appears when the iC-7 is connected to a PC.

Some other information related to the iC-7 that I found:
* The iC-7 can be configured to do 10Hz, 20Hz, 50Hz, 100Hz, 200Hz CANBUS sampling according to the firmware I was using. Not sure if you need proper shielded wire or just twisted pair for the higher data rate, tho.
* The iC-7 also can operate at 250kbps, 500kbps, 750kbps, and 1Mbps.
* It has a toggle-able internal 120ohm resistor for termination.

I was able to piece together some Link ECU CAN IDs for certain signals as well (not sure if usable but included for completeness):
ID 864; RPM, MAP
ID 865; Fuel press, Oil Press.Q
ID 872; Lambda
ID 867; Wheel Speed
ID 882; Batt Voltage
ID 992; IAT, ECT, Oil temp, Fuel Temp
ID 993; Ethanol
ID 994; Fuel Level

Cheers,
Kevin

There is only one setting for Motec output via CAN, so you will have to select that then make changes to the settings on the Haltech unit itself to try to get it to work.