Hondata

I apologize if this has been asked to death, but long time lurker first time poster.

I managed to install an 06-08 TSX throttle body and everything else is stock on my 2010 Civic Si sedan. However when I start my car from time to time I’ll get a check engine light shortly after reversing or accelerating even after relearning the Throttle body, disconnecting the battery, and even trying to rev it to 3000 and holding it there for at least 3 minutes.

When I look up the DTC code it says lean and I’m wondering what I can do specifically with the AIr Fuel ratio section using Hondata flashpro to fix this?

I’ve tried to read the help section and it’s just confusing me and I’ve tried to google but others seem to have all sorts of other mods.

sorry for such a noob question but I just want to adjust the AF ratio so it’s within parameters so it doesn’t keep throwing a lean code.

P.S - idle does not fluctuate at all. It holds steady from cold start as high as 1800rpm then gradually falls to 750-800 after couple of minutes.

Honda_TypeS_10 wrote: Sun Jul 14, 2024 1:17 pm ..and everything else is stock...

Sorry, I forgot to mention I'm using an RBB TSX intake manifold. When I replay my datalogging,
whenever I see my MAP(/psi) values go far as -23 my A/F(:1) value shoots up suddenly to 29.4!

Could this be a valuable clue on what to tune? I'm still lost on how to fix this. Here is my datalogging
file: HomeTo Gas Station. About 7 minutes of driving.

Lean code means you're running lean obviously. You changed your intake and tb, did you also change injectors? If so you need to make that change in fpm. If you did make that change, you need to add fuel. that log speaks for itself, stft is adding 30% fuel at all times. And your cam angle goes to 0 degrees every time you shift. Is the car hard to drive? Like low speed driving and shifting kind of rough? Anyway, add fuel. A lot of fuel.

mikeyinid wrote: Sun Jul 14, 2024 6:54 pm Lean code means you're running lean obviously. You changed your intake and tb, did you also change injectors? If so you need to make that change in fpm. If you did make that change, you need to add fuel. that log speaks for itself, stft is adding 30% fuel at all times. And your cam angle goes to 0 degrees every time you shift. Is the car hard to drive? Like low speed driving and shifting kind of rough? Anyway, add fuel. A lot of fuel.

No change in injectors, using stock. Sorry what is fpm? Is that Feet Per Minute? And it's not hard to drive at all. It's not rough either. Just using a lighter flywheel ARGH forgot to mention that too.

So do I need to add 30% fuel in the Fuel section of the calibration? And is came angle at 0 degrees bad every time I shift?

Honda_TypeS_10 wrote: Sun Jul 14, 2024 8:12 pm

mikeyinid wrote: Sun Jul 14, 2024 6:54 pm Lean code means you're running lean obviously. You changed your intake and tb, did you also change injectors? If so you need to make that change in fpm. If you did make that change, you need to add fuel. that log speaks for itself, stft is adding 30% fuel at all times. And your cam angle goes to 0 degrees every time you shift. Is the car hard to drive? Like low speed driving and shifting kind of rough? Anyway, add fuel. A lot of fuel.

No change in injectors, using stock. Sorry what is fpm? Is that Feet Per Minute? And it's not hard to drive at all. It's not rough either. Just using a lighter flywheel ARGH forgot to mention that too.

So do I need to add 30% fuel in the Fuel section of the calibration? And is came angle at 0 degrees bad every time I shift?

I would start with less than 30%, but yes add fuel to both tables. fpm is flashpro manager. 0 degrees between shifts is not an issue but can cause driveability issues. I can't have mine go to zero or shifting between gears sucks. If you have no issues don't sweat it. You want your stft as close to zero as possible. Doesn't have to be perfect but it adding 30% all the time isn't good. Get it closer to 0, highlight both fuel tables, right click and in the top option of the 3 put 10 in and hit enter. Start there. See if it gets you closer.

Are you running the stock tune?

Also suggest doing research on this stuff. I'm not an expert just giving you advice.

Thank you I will try that advice. And yes I am using stock tune.

Would you recommend MAP based tune stock or is that bad?

Okay after changing my calibration settings to CAI,
Well it didn’t matter but each time I datalog and put more values in the graph section I think I see something…

It appears whenever I let go of the acceleration (when (TPedal) goes to 0%), the (AFcorr) goes red to 29.40 Is this normal? Or something dangerous? On that note, my MAP(/psi) is max vacuum at -24.6

I’m assuming since I’m off the pedal that the fuel injectors are no longer spraying fuel do I have that correct? So is this normal operation I shouldn’t worry about?

P.s. stock injectors (310).

Sorry, it wouldn't let me edit my post anymore. Here is my datalog. This time I tried CAI calibration. Thought since I'm using a TSX throttle body with a slightly bigger throttle rubber tube to my air box it would be similiar? Also tested removing rev hang. Drove around several blocks @ ~ 6 minutes drive.

Okay I'm a complete idiot. So I was told that when TPedal goes to 0%, then the Air Fuel ratio is supposed to go to 29 since MAP vacuum goes to -23 to -24. Ugh... I've got a looong ways go to 😭😭

No worries, we all start somewhere. As you learn make sure you make small changes so you don't damage anything.

- Ed