Hondata

SManager version 2.7.8
91 Crx - ls/vtec
P06 ecu, S300v3 with BBG
Calibration & Datalog are attached

The car was running but sat for roughly two months. Without anything being changed, I went to start the car up and it just cranked but never sounded like it even tried to actually start. Spark was verified with a spark tester, but a noid light shows that the injectors aren’t firing. I can clearly hear the fuel pump prime and turn on while cranking (bosch 044).

I think the main issue is that in the sensor list, the distributor error is on. I initially had that distributor error around a year ago when I first got the car running, but since switching to a known good distributor I haven’t had that problem again until just now.

Since I the car just sat for two months, I’m confused why now it won’t start and the injectors aren’t firing. I have another ecu with s300v3 and tried uploading my map to that ecu, but the car still doesn’t start and the noid light still wasn’t lighting up.

Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you

What were you doing during your datalog? If you were trying to crank it, there is no RPM signal being generated, which makes me think something in the distributor. Do you have a spare one you can try swapping in?

Sorry, this one is while trying to start it. Unfortunately I don't have another distributor to try swapping in.

Have you checked for fuel and spark?

Your battery voltage is low...dipping into the 8's when cranking. That can cause all kinds of things to go haywire...I would replace or charge your battery.

Spunkster wrote: Mon Apr 04, 2022 9:25 am Have you checked for fuel and spark?

It does have spark but a noid light showed the injectors weren't firing

DaX wrote: Mon Apr 04, 2022 9:57 am Your battery voltage is low...dipping into the 8's when cranking. That can cause all kinds of things to go haywire...I would replace or charge your battery.

Interesting, appreciate the heads up. It's always kept on a ctek charger but I'll try using a jump pack or switching to another battery and report back. It's a tiny pc680 size battery so I know it's less than ideal to begin with.

After putting a jump pack on the car, cranking voltage was 11.5 volts and the injectors still were not firing. It does seem like my battery is toast considering cranking voltage was in the 8's without the jump pack, but I take it there's another issue going on.

To check the distributor wiring, I confirmed continuity with the distributor wires through the distributor plug and ECU pins as shown below. Resistance for each of the 7 wires on the big plug was 2-3 ohms which seems to mostly be from the multiple jumper wires I was using. On the 2 wire plug I couldn't figure out where the 'engine speed output' wire goes (Gooogle makes me believe it goes to the tach), but the 'ign input' wire has continuity with the main 60 amp fuse in the underhood fuse box and has around 100 ohms of resistance.

I would recommend you try the ECU on a known running vehicle and see if it works before proceeding further.