I would like to know if there might be something that the tunners may be messing up when tuning or initial hook up, my red light is always on at a steady red light = why???NO POWER IN VTEC
NO POWER IN VTEC
I have a GSR with a full skunk 2 head, the head is port and polished, skunk 2 manifold, skunk 2 stage 2 cams, je pistons, eagle rods and hondata 2 it has been dynoyed twice and it make 158 whp which is horrible i wanted to know if the hondata can be bad any info would help I would like to know if there might be something that the tunners may be messing up when tuning or initial hook up, my red light is always on at a steady red light = why???
I would like to know if there might be something that the tunners may be messing up when tuning or initial hook up, my red light is always on at a steady red light = why???-
BluFireGSR
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QUICKSILVER RACING
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guess what? I have a customer that has around 158WHP and 111WTQ on his B16A. Type r pistons and Cams. That is with pump gas here. Our octane rating sucks big time.
Hondata is used to bring out the potential of engine. Is your tuner a hondata dealer? You don't need to mention his name. Does your tumer even have a Romeditor. if he doesn't have a romeditor, then that explains your low power out put.
If possible can you shhow us your dyno plot and a/f mixture. You should have an a/f ratio between 12.9-13.5.
Hondata is used to bring out the potential of engine. Is your tuner a hondata dealer? You don't need to mention his name. Does your tumer even have a Romeditor. if he doesn't have a romeditor, then that explains your low power out put.
If possible can you shhow us your dyno plot and a/f mixture. You should have an a/f ratio between 12.9-13.5.
Yeah, 158whp seems a little bit on the low side. I made that much with a stock SOHC and JRSC @ 7psi...
http://home.sprynet.com/~johnnytso/_ima ... ochart.JPG
http://home.sprynet.com/~johnnytso/_ima ... logger.jpg
http://home.sprynet.com/~johnnytso/_ima ... ochart.JPG
http://home.sprynet.com/~johnnytso/_ima ... logger.jpg
Always verify timing too. If your base timing is off, the tables will be skewed - example, if your base timing is 5 degrees off and your tuner has programmed in a total timing curve of 28 degrees in the table, your actual timing will be 23. Using a good timing light, just ensure that your timing is exactly what the ECU believes it is. Hopefully you tuner has already done this, but I've seen much more obvious problems overlooked.
Ed
Ed