Hondata

RPm freezes when shifting 2nd to 3rd then full throttle. After shifting from 2nd to 3rd then flooring it again car rpm freezes as if fuel and/or spark are being cut. After letting off throttle the engine behaves normally as long do not floor it.
What settings in SManager would cause such an issue?

I do not have boost control so boost control or boost cut will not function right?

Post the calibration used as well as a datalog showing the issue.

Here is the calibration. I do not have boost control chip or board whatever it is installed. Im not sure if this means boost cut works without boost control option or not.
The boost cut settings I adjusted one was 9.9 and wastegate has 11 psi spring installed. Not sure if any of that matters or if boost cut even works without the boost control option being installed.
Read other post seemed like someone having a similar issue and was checking grounds. I can tell my valve cover ground is not installed on the center studs but on the valve cover corner closest to driver headlight.
I need to check other grounds too.

Have not datalogged this issue yet it only happens when full throttle. But it just started and has only happened 2 to 3 times before that car did not hesitate.

Here are 2 datalogs, the longer is the one where went into boost fine then CEL was thrown and freezing started occurring.

Also I know engine was overheating but is there anything else that would cause this freezing of fuel and spark issue?

And if you do not have boost option does the boost cut parameter even affect anything?

Where in the datalog are you seeing this happen?

Are you using resistor or non-resistor type spark plugs?

On the short datalog 145-154. The boost goes all way up but the RPM doesnt not continue to increase.

On the long datalog 145-155 is a good example.

Basically anywhere in datalog where the injector ms are spiked high should be where going into full boost.

I think I have non resistor injectors. Car is OBDII so took off stock 240cc injectors and installed 650cc injectors. Connectors had to be changed but i do not have resistor box anywhere so i thought you could not have resistor injectors in that case.

Is there a setting that causes car to cut fuel and spark if there is an overheat CEL ??

I'm not asking about the injectors. I need to know if you are using resistor or non-resistor type spark plugs.

You are using a stock MAP sensor and trying to run too much boost on it. On the long log you can see the boost flat lining at 10.8 psi around 1:48. You need to drop your boost cut to 10.5 psi so you don't max out your MAP sensor.

You're also overheating (your protection is set to 212F).

I would recommend calibrating your TPS.

You should think about changing your wideband input to the ELD input so you can see the full range of the sensor.

Spunkster I have resistor spark plugs they are NGK (PFR6G-13) resistance rating 5000 ohms, heat range 6. Resistor plugs are what I need to filter out interference right?


Great info DAX thanks.

I set cold boost cut to 7 psi and it cut it, i thought it would just stop boost from increasing but it actually freezes RPM and throws CEL until I let off the throttle.
Set hot boost low at 10 psi and hot boost high at 10.2 psi. I do not really understand why there are a low and high hot boost settings, seems like there would just be a cold boost and hot boost i dont understand why. When going to hot boost cut basically did same thing freezed RPM. SO boost cut will not let the RPM increase while keeping the boost at the threshold you set?
Is there any way to set boost cut but still have the engine RPM increase while the boost cut limit is maintained at 8 psi or 10psi whatever you choose?


So if I want to run 11 psi I need to buy a 3 bar MAP sensor ?

When you say calibrate the MAP sensor I have done that before to stock specs, so do I need to adjust it to out of stock specs in order for computer to not throw a code when I'm trying to run 10.8 psi ??

I will try running it again with 10.5 psi boost cut but can I just put all the hot boost cuts to 10.5 ?

Also I do not have a wideband air fuel gauge on the car.

When you say ELD do you mean the setting on the MISC parameter tab? Because I not sure whether to disable ELD, injector error, ignition output error, alternator control, all these I have no idea if I should enable or disable. Not really sure what they all mean exactly.

The knock sensor I have to have disabled or will get a CEL right? Is this because ODBI cars did not have knock sensor like ODBII cars?

I do not really understand why there are a low and high hot boost settings, seems like there would just be a cold boost and hot boost i dont understand why.

If you were using an electronic boost controller, you could have both "low boost" and "high boost" settings and can toggle between them using a switch or by other means (like flex fuel sensor). Since you're not using an electronic boost controller, set both 'hot/low' and 'hot/high' to the same (again, I recommend 10.5 psi while using a stock MAP).

SO boost cut will not let the RPM increase while keeping the boost at the threshold you set?

Boost cut will cut fuel delivery, and keep the fuel delivery cut until RPMs drop below 2,000 or until the throttle is released. It's doing it's job - protecting the engine.

Is there any way to set boost cut but still have the engine RPM increase while the boost cut limit is maintained at 8 psi or 10psi whatever you choose?

You are confusing boost cut with boost control. Boost cut is a last-ditch effort by the ECU to save the engine from dangerous conditions. Boost control (manual, vacuum tees, electronic boost controller, etc.) stabilizes boost at a pre-determined / desired level.

So if I want to run 11 psi I need to buy a 3 bar MAP sensor ?

Yes, or 4 bar, 7 bar, etc. Something more than 1 bar (stock).

When you say calibrate the MAP sensor..

I said you need to calibrate your TPS, not your MAP. Your datalog shows 109% TPS when you're at WOT. Hondata has made it very easy to calibrate the TPS within the software (see the TPS tab in the parameters window).

Also I do not have a wideband air fuel gauge on the car.

OK, so no gauge, but are you not running a wideband sensor? Was the car tuned using a wideband sensor? If not, I would recommend you not drive it any more until you have it tuned using a wideband sensor. Without it, you're truly just guessing blindly and risk damaging the engine.

When you say ELD do you mean the setting on the MISC parameter tab? Because I not sure whether to disable ELD, injector error, ignition output error, alternator control, all these I have no idea if I should enable or disable. Not really sure what they all mean exactly.

If you use the ELD input into the ECU for the wideband, you need to disable the ELD on the Misc tab. If you don't have a reason to disable these parameters, I would not.

The knock sensor I have to have disabled or will get a CEL right? Is this because ODBI cars did not have knock sensor like ODBII cars?

If the ECU doesn't know to look for a knock sensor, you probably won't get a CEL, but I usually disable it anyway.

One tip I'll give you is to click on the blue "help" link at the top right corner of each tab in SManager. There is lots of good info in there, including direct answers to some of the questions you've asked so far.

I do not have any wideband O2 sensor installed at all. I think the car was tuned with a wideband O2 sensor, it was on a dyno and i think they had something go into the muffler a sniffer like thing.

The boost cut i have tried running at 10.5 (it is an 11psi waste gate spring) and it seems to cut the boost still. I guesss it will keep doing that since spring is for 11psi and boost cut freezes the rpm/fuel.

I tried adjusting the stock TPS sensor and at closed position its 0.5 but at WOT it reads 4.7. Someone told me I need to adjust TPS through Hondata which i assume is what you meant but if the stock TPS is not 0.5v closed and 4.5 at WOT how will adjusting through Hondata help if it is not within the correct parameters when checked under the hood with a voltmeter?

When I ran a chip along with S200 I never remember having issue with running close to 11psi on a stock MAP but ever since upgrading to S300 its been an issue.

You cannot make more boost than what you have the boost cut set for. If you do then it will cut the engine every time.

TurboTeg332 wrote: Tue Mar 29, 2022 12:21 pm I do not have any wideband O2 sensor installed at all. I think the car was tuned with a wideband O2 sensor, it was on a dyno and i think they had something go into the muffler a sniffer like thing.

Yes, that was a wideband. While not ideal, you can get by with no wideband.

The boost cut i have tried running at 10.5 (it is an 11psi waste gate spring) and it seems to cut the boost still. I guesss it will keep doing that since spring is for 11psi and boost cut freezes the rpm/fuel.

Correct - you must change to a softer spring. Your wastegate spring represents the LOWEST boost you can run.

I tried adjusting the stock TPS sensor and at closed position its 0.5 but at WOT it reads 4.7. Someone told me I need to adjust TPS through Hondata which i assume is what you meant but if the stock TPS is not 0.5v closed and 4.5 at WOT how will adjusting through Hondata help if it is not within the correct parameters when checked under the hood with a voltmeter?

The software can compensate. Plug your laptop into the S300, open SManager, put your key in the ignition, and turn the car to the ON position (no need to crank it). In SManager, click the lightning bolt to connect and you should see live readings on the display. Navigate to Parameters > TPS. The 3rd box down is "Scale TPS". With your foot off the throttle, click "Read" beside where it says Minimum Reading. Press the throttle all the way to the floor and while holding it, click "Read" beside where it says Maximum Reading. Save the changes to your tune and upload it to the ECU.

Adjusted TPS via the Hondata calibration method and car does not throw CEL runnning 8 psi or 11 psi spring. 11 psi spring does seem like it is missing at 7-8K but its difficult to tell if its a real fuel cut out miss or just the wastegate opening and closing rapidly.

At any rate it runs better on 8 psi spring although still notice some missing at high rpm too.

If i get a 3 bar MAP sensor this will change the resolution of the tune right, so can I just interpolate the values to correct for this?

It may be breaking up. What kind of spark plug gap are you running?

If you change to a 3 bar MAP, you'll need to change the scaling and offset parameters to match. In theory you shouldn't have to change your fuel maps, but it's always a good idea to go through them at no boot, then low boost to ensure your fuel curves are still accurate after any kind of change like this.