New to Flashpro 07 Civic SI w/ AEM CAI V1

[Jardiniboy]

Hello

I recently just purchased a flashpro are owning my Civic SI for 10+ years. I've been running the AEM CAI V1 all these years and finally jump on getting a flashpro. Always though of adding more mods before getting a flashpro but never did. So I think I'm pretty much set for now. I haven't installed a calibration yet because there was no base tune with my old CAI. I was wondering if you guys could point me into the right direction and enjoy the use of the flashpro.

Thanks.

[EFICU]

Welcome to the Hondata platform. So the only mod you have is the AEM CAI, everything else is stock?

[Jardiniboy]

Yes. The only mod I have is the AEM CAI V1 (1 piece without the vanes)

[EFICU]

Gotcha. You touched on other mods, do you plan to add any other performance mods in the near future, or is this your setup for quite a while?

There is a long way and a short way to tune these is why I ask. Just gauging your plans.

[Jardiniboy]

I'm sorry I forgot to add that I do have a Stage 2 action clutch and a lightweight flywheel (11 LBS)

But yes this will be my set up for awhile. Most likely over a year.

[EFICU]

Okay sounds good. Yeah the flywheel and stuff won't impact the tune so no problem.

The two ways of tuning I mention, one is the proper way to do it where we tune each cam angle map individually and then blend everything out in the end. This usually takes 10-12 revisions in most cases. The quicker way is using a completed basemap and then making fuel and ignition adjustments to that for your car, usually in the 4-6 revisions range. The burden of time falls mostly on you which is why I give you the option, the datalogs we need have to be 20-30 minutes in length, which some guys don't have that much time. This is why I also ask if you plan to keep the setup for a long time, that way we spend the time appropriate for your future plans.

So yeah, if you want some help with it let me know. If you have any questions feel free to ask as well.

[Jardiniboy]

Thank you for your time and help.

Since this is my daily driver and I will keep it the same for a long time i rather do it right.

I don't mind taking the long route as long as I can take my car to work.

Please let me know when you're free to help out.

[EFICU]

Sounds like a good plan.

So, for the datalogs as mentioned, we need them to be in the 20-30 minute range with as much stop and go type driving as possible. Basically avoiding long steady speed driving. On the drive, we also need one wide open throttle (WOT) pull in third gear from 2500-8600rpm so we can see the WOT fueling.

Here is the first file for you. This one will be the 0* cam angle with vtec at 4500. The 0* cam angle is sort of boring because it is the least cam angle available, so don't get discouraged if it isn't too much fun to drive on. As we progress, it will get better and better. I will also move vtec around as we go, which I will always keep you in the loop on that. Take this one for a drive with the datalog parameters I outlined and we will see how it looks.

Jardiniboy.SD.Rev01.1 (0Cam)(Vtec4500).fpcal

[Jardiniboy]

Here is my first datalog. I don't mind it being boring at first. But I thought it was different with the Vtec being at a different location and revving up 8600.

After reviewing the data log I think I started WOT at around 3500. Hope it doesn't mess with anything.

Jardiniboydatalog001.fpdl

[EFICU]

No problem on going WOT at 3500, it's a little weird on the street. Just shoot for the best you can to get down between 2500-3000 and we'll work with it.

Unfortunately your primary o2 sensor has failed and is reading improperly on WOT operation. It will need to be replaced before we can do any tuning on it. When you go WOT, the AFR is dead flat at 13.9x which isn't possible to be that flat. It seems to be a fairly common issue as you are probably the 10th one I've seen now with this issue. You can get one from the dealer, or a quality name brand one, I wouldn't recommend a cheap Amazon one. I have always had good luck with the Bosch 13940 you can get from Rock Auto or wherever. Just be sure not to get a cheap one is all, they don't read properly and won't last very long, OEM or the Bosch will work good and last you a fair amount of time.

Also, we had a fair amount of knock right at redline. What octane are you running?

Here is the next file. I cleaned up some of the fueling and ignition for the knock. I would recommend driving on this calibration until you get the o2 sensor replaced. The 02 works fine for part throttle driving, but does not read WOT properly. So you can drive it with no issues, but I wouldn't recommend to doing any WOT pulls or aggressive driving until the sensor is replaced.

Jardiniboy.SD.Rev02 (0Cam)(Vtec4500).fpcal

[Jardiniboy]

This sucks. I'm surprise that my primary O2 sensor failed because I never got a CEL. I just ordered an OEM replacement (Denzo) hopefully it will come by the end of the week.

I'm currently using 92 octane which is the highest we have here in Hawaii other than race gas.

[EFICU]

Yeah I'm sorry man, it seems to be fairly common now that these cars are 10-15 years old now. They don't throw a code because it's doesn't read a ridiculously lean AFR, it's just not reading it properly. I'll attach a picture below of another car I discovered this on and realized what the issue was.

This might be information overload, but going from top screenshot to bottom, if you look at the blue line where it shows a "AF Corr 13.97", that was the second tune I sent him and noticed something wasn't right because I put fuel in it get it on target. Then in the middle screenshot, notice that same "AF Corr 13.69" blue line is now reading lean still after I added 8% fuel? It doesn't matter how much fuel I added, the AFR didn't richen up and also notice how dead flat that line is, that is difficult if not impossible to get it that flat. In the bottom screenshot, that is the same tune as the middle screenshot and the AFR immediately went rich to 11.84 after replacing the primary o2 sensor and the same fuel tables. Also notice how that bottom screenshot, the blue AFR line has some shape to it and not dead flat, it should have some shape like that because of how it samples during a datalog. Since then I have seen the exact same thing at least 10 times that I can recall over the past couple years. Since the faulty sensor is reading in the 13.69 range, it won't throw a code. It doesn't mean your engine is that lean, it just means the sensor isn't reading properly.

Old-vs-New-Oxygen-Sensor.jpg

Here is your AFR below, notice how dead flat it is, it is just about impossible to get this flat, especially on the first datalog on a basemap. Not to mention on your setup, there is no way it should be running that lean. Once we've made some revisions it is fairly flat, but nothing like this. As soon as I saw it I knew what it was. Instead of having you make another pull, I figured we correct the issue before you make another pull since we really don't know what the AFR is.

Flat AFR.JPG

So I know it sucks, but at least we found it and we can get it back to working properly for you. Again this doesn't mean your car has been lean or is lean, just the sensor isn't working properly. And thankfully Honda tunes these in open loop so it doesn't rely on the sensor to trim fuel for WOT operation. We'll get it dialed for you though. Sometimes there are speedbumps like this, but getting the rectified is good.

Just keep me in the loop when the new sensor comes in, and we will get back on it. If you have any questions or need anything in the meantime just let me know.

[Jardiniboy]

Sorry for the long wait. I finally was able to get my new primary 02 sensor installed. I'm actually happy that we was able to get this addressed because I would of not known the sensor was not working. Thanks for the great write up, this is my first time actually reading and learning about tuning.

Here is my next datalog. I have 2 WOTs on there, I had to cut the first one short at around 5500. I'm happy there's a lot less knock than the last time.

[EFICU]

No problem, I was wondering where you went. Haha. Yeah I've come across one or two guys since you with the same issue as well. Just waiting on parts to get them back on track. Looking at the datalog, it was definitely the sensor. We went from a 13.90 AFR with the bad sensor and it's now rich in the 11's with the new sensor. So it shows it's working properly now since it's the same tune basically, just a new working sensor. Here are the old vs new AFR graphs just to show you it's working properly now. I made the necessary fuel changes and ignition changes for this next one.

Flat AFR.JPG

New Sensor.JPG

So we're back on track now. We will move to the 15* cam angle with vtec now at 5500. Go ahead and get back to the 20-30 minute datalogs and shoot for one clean WOT pull in third like you have been. Now the process will move forward nicely with the new sensor.

Jardiniboy.SD.Rev03 (15Cam)(Vtec5500).fpcal

[Jardiniboy]

It kinda sucks that a lot more people have the same 02 sensor problem. But like what you said these cars are 10+ years old now and sensors don't last forever specially the ones that goes through a lot of heat.

Here's my next datalog. I noticed with this tune the car has a lot more power especially during practical throttle. WOT feels better too. But I'm guessing it's the 15* cam angle and the AFR not as rich as the previous tune.