New build with a freshened P28 ECU and Hondata Boost Solenoid. No problems discovered during the dyno session. At the first event, the car ran well on the first run but hit boost cut on the second and third runs and the problem persisted on a test drive the following day.
Routing around the boost controller puts the car on wastegate pressure as expected. I have verified the boost solenoid is functioning by using a 12v source to trigger it. However, when testing via the S300 and setting activation to 0kpa and fixed duty cycle of 50%, the solenoid doesn't click. Strangely saw 12v on both sides of the solenoid for a few seconds before it drained to zero. I have verified that the solenoid is getting 12v of clean power and the ground signal wire has continuity to pin A11. I tested D14, R70 and R71 and all show within spec. This ECU was tested prior to delivery including the boost circuits. I do not have a spare ECU to test.
This leads me to believe that either Q29 or Q20 have failed and if I had to venture a guess, Q29 is likely the problem. I have ordered new components but would like to test the mofset and transistor without removing them from the board. Anyone know how to properly test these? I would assume I probably need a oscilloscope but maybe there is a way with just a frequency sensing multimeter? Also, should Q29 have a bigger heat sink to prevent overheating? Is Q29 a common failure point?
Boost Control Failure
Re: Boost Control Failure
You can use the test outputs option in the software from the online menu. If the solenoid does not buzz then you can try replacing the components and see if it works. If it does not, try connecting the solenoid to power and ground and you should hear a click as you connect and disconnect the ground. If this does not click, then the solenoid has been damaged or clogged.
Re: Boost Control Failure
Yes, I have tested the solenoid directly and it is triggering with an audible click. Testing via the software was not successful. Being that the mosfet transistor has under 5 hours of use on it leads me to believe it was a manufacture defect or it was damaged during installation. However, being a power mosfet, it is very unlikely it occurred during installation as the chip is designed to handle heat.
I am going to replace Q29 and Q20 both but I doubt Q20 is the cause.
So the questions are:
How to properly test these? (What is the expected voltage and / or frequency on each transistor leg?)
Should Q29 have an additional heat sink to prevent overheating?
Is Q29 a common failure point?
I am going to replace Q29 and Q20 both but I doubt Q20 is the cause.
So the questions are:
How to properly test these? (What is the expected voltage and / or frequency on each transistor leg?)
Should Q29 have an additional heat sink to prevent overheating?
Is Q29 a common failure point?
Re: Boost Control Failure
The only way to test is using the test outputs from the online menu.
Re: Boost Control Failure
Well, after testing, it seems things are kind of OK with the transistors but I still have the problem. I was able to reload the tune and test the car successfully on Thursday but on Sunday at an event the car had the same problem. Not only that, when I attempted to connect to the ECU, the software kept throwing errors and I could neither download or upload a tune. This wasn't the first time I have seen this behavior but it wasn't persistant and I had to reimage my laptop due to a failed hard drive so I figured at the time the laptop was the cause. Regardless, it appears the tune is becoming corrupted for some reason.
My best guess at this point is I am experiencing an order of operations issue. I don't have a main relay and instead have relays for the fuel pump and ECU triggered by switches. My assumption is that I need to power the ECU first before turning the key to power the S300 prior to the key powering the rest of the ECU. The only other idea I have is the S300 has failed.
Any thoughts?
My best guess at this point is I am experiencing an order of operations issue. I don't have a main relay and instead have relays for the fuel pump and ECU triggered by switches. My assumption is that I need to power the ECU first before turning the key to power the S300 prior to the key powering the rest of the ECU. The only other idea I have is the S300 has failed.
Any thoughts?
Re: Boost Control Failure
It could also be an ECU socketing problem.
Try the ECU in a known working vehicle.
Try the ECU in a known working vehicle.
Re: Boost Control Failure
I think I figured out the issue.
Backstory: A year ago, I was troubleshooting a hot start problem where the car would start and run until it got to temperature after which it only crank, stumble and die (it ended up being the igniter). Suspecting the main relay, as it had many problems before, I removed the main relay, built a relay and power distribution board and included two relays to replace the main relay; one for the fuel pump and a second for ECU / injectors. Although the main relay was not the actual cause, I have had too many issues with EF main relays over the years to justify keeping a stock main relay in place for this car.
What I found is, if the key was turned before the ECU relay was powered up, the configuration may become corrupted. This didn't seem to impact the full configuration, only parts including boost control and launch control. SManager would crash when attempting any action with S300 which prevented a laptop from accessing the S300 until the ECU was fully power cycled (disconnect the battery). .
Suspecting this was the cause, I was able to replicate this behavior and corrupt the ECU. After confirming my hypothesis, I have changed the order of operations for starting and shutting down the car and after further testing and competing at an event, the behavior has not reoccurred. I suspect, when the key is turned without power being applied to the ECU, it is being back powered though the sensors and the low voltage caused the S300 to fault. I will likely rewire the ECU relay back to trigger off ignition switch to prevent any brain farts in the future.
Backstory: A year ago, I was troubleshooting a hot start problem where the car would start and run until it got to temperature after which it only crank, stumble and die (it ended up being the igniter). Suspecting the main relay, as it had many problems before, I removed the main relay, built a relay and power distribution board and included two relays to replace the main relay; one for the fuel pump and a second for ECU / injectors. Although the main relay was not the actual cause, I have had too many issues with EF main relays over the years to justify keeping a stock main relay in place for this car.
What I found is, if the key was turned before the ECU relay was powered up, the configuration may become corrupted. This didn't seem to impact the full configuration, only parts including boost control and launch control. SManager would crash when attempting any action with S300 which prevented a laptop from accessing the S300 until the ECU was fully power cycled (disconnect the battery). .
Suspecting this was the cause, I was able to replicate this behavior and corrupt the ECU. After confirming my hypothesis, I have changed the order of operations for starting and shutting down the car and after further testing and competing at an event, the behavior has not reoccurred. I suspect, when the key is turned without power being applied to the ECU, it is being back powered though the sensors and the low voltage caused the S300 to fault. I will likely rewire the ECU relay back to trigger off ignition switch to prevent any brain farts in the future.