Hondata

Currently have a SRI (K&N if that matters) which I think is 3 in but will double check, a cat back full race 3" exhaust and will be replacing my current cracked exhaust with a KTuned 3" exhaust later this week/weekend. I thought the SRI cat delete and catback exhaust base tune was a good place to start since I dont know how to tune at all. Any info/suggestions on settings to change other then that would be great

You can try the calibration you mention, then make a datalog to post and we can see how it looks. Since you you are essentially full bolt on, it would be a good idea to run a complete tune on the car to get the most out of it. You would want to tune each cam angle and then blend everything out to give you the best result. If you want some help with it let me know. I can put together a file for you to start on, then it takes about 10-12 revisions to get it dialed for you.

Otherwise, if you want to try the calibration you mention, make a datalog in the 20-30 minute range with stop and go driving. Then make one wide open throttle (WOT) pull in third gear from 2500-7500 so we can see the WOT fueling.

Hey I need some advice on how to work the hondata please. I have a DC sport SRI , buddy club ... exhaust and a Ktuned catback. I tried the SRI, cat delete and catback base map tune but my car is Idling weird. Jumping all over the place and then dies off. Any reason that’s happening?

Have you been running this setup for a while without a tune with no issues? Now you installed the FlashPro with a base calibration and the issue happens?

I had the hondata reflash map when I had just the Sri and ktuned catback. I had hondata for about a year now but I just tried out the Sri, cat delete and catback map because I installed my exhaust today. Seem odd it isn’t running properly with that map. My friend who has a 8th gen has the same kind of mods and it works fine. He has a k&n sri, plm header no cat and a catback.

Have you tried going back to your old calibration? It sounds like your old calibration was MAF based, and the new calibration is MAP based (speed density) and it needs some adjustments for the setup. What calibration were you running before?

hey, so I was running the "US 2012-2014 Hondata reflash". I am currently running the Hondata reflash again as of right now since the "Sri, cat delete, and Catback" map didn't work properly. I do see that I get knock counts on the reflash map but I hear it's normal on a Hondata base map is that true?

With the old calibration though it’s idling okay? The calibration you’re on is MAF based so it’s a little weird that it idles okay on the MAF tune and not at all on the new calibration you tried which is MAP (speed density) based. I’m guessing there is something in the new calibration that just meeds to be adjusted, but usually they are good to idle and drive.

It’s normal to get knock even on the stock calibration. The Hondata basemaps are usually tuned for 93 octane, so if you’re running 91 you will get some knock in which the knock control strategy will rise to hopefully stop or reduce the knock.

Can you make you a datalog on the calibration you have in there now? Ultimately we can tune it using my stuff if you want, just let me know.

yeah with the old calibration its idling fine.

Oh okay i normally pump at Shell and they only have 91 octane (Toronto Ontario)

Yeah i can datalog on the calibration i have right now. do i do a 3rd gear pull? 4th and 5th to redline would be most difficult.

Okay. Yeah with 91 then having knock is normal because of the lower octane. It's easy to remove the knock, we just have to go in and adjust the ignition.

Take it for a drive, just normal driving, and you can do one third gear pull. Don't do any fourth or fifth gear pulls, that's too fast for the street. Then we'll go from there.

This is a datalog of normal driving and a 3 gear,

So I tried the (SRI CAT, DELETE, AND CATBACK) map and the car was dying off. it'll start and RPMs will drop so low where the car turns off, but I kept playing with the throttle pedal till it was idling okay. then I drove around with it and did a datalog. the car feels like its struggling to accelerate around 2000 pm

thank you so much for helping me ;)

Interesting, they're both polar opposites of each other. The first datalg is super rich, and the second one is lean.

Yeah honestly the best way would be to go in and tune all cam angles one by one and then blend everything out. I would guess you don't have any more mods planned since you have the bulk of mods already done. The proper route to tune these will take around 10-12 revisions to get everything dialed. If that works for you let me know. If you need it done quicker, we can shorten up the process a little bit. But tuning it properly gives us the best chance to deliver the best product for you. That and we will see on the first calibration how it all looks using my stuff.

Anyways, let me know and I will send you the first file whichever route you want to go.

I do plan on getting a cold air intake and the RBC manifold soon maybe not now but in another 8 months or so. I Was planing on getting a pro tune after that. As of right what would be the best and safe option?

The best thing is always to go in and tune all cam angles and then blend the tune based on that data. That's the only way to build a proper cam angle map and find the right vtec rpm without having a dyno. Either way, whatever route you go, the tune now will be no good when you add the RBC. The RBC requires completely different fuel and ignition tables as you might already know.

If you're strapped for time, we can shorten up the data collection and try to get it done in fewer revisions. All depend on how much time you have or don't have really. All the burden of times falls on you guys with having to make datalogs. That and gas prices aren't exactly on our side either.

If all you want to do is clean up the file that the car actually runs okay on, we can do that. It's just not the best way IMO to getting you the best product.