Hondata

Problems to Solve
1) Optimal wiring for lambda overlay capabilties for tuning
2) gauge and hondata is reading differently (I would like to avoid too much voltage offset, if possible)

I am trying to figure out the best optimal wiring solution for my setup two solve the above issues. The setup includes two widebands and Hondata CPR kit. I have the Hondata CPR kit installed and working (installed per instructions) and also have the PLX SM-AFR Gen4 wideband installed and working as well. Recently I picked up an AEM X-Series 30-3000 wideband since people have been telling me that it's super accurate, even over the PLX. I'm trying to compare the two by having both installed before ditching one (or maybe keeping both? I don't know yet). I've been told that it's best to power and ground these gauges through the ECU side. However, since I have the Hondta CPR box powered by the ECU (A25 for power and A23 for ground), would I run into any issues if I tapped into those pins to power and ground two additional devices (for a total of three)? I've included a wiring diagram of how I currenty have the two widebands installed.

As far as analog input goes for datalogging:
* I am trying to use the Analog Inputs available on the S300 v3
* If I cannot use the Analog Inputs for datalogging/fine tuning (for lambda overlay)... then it sounds like I have to wire the wideband input sources into either D12 or D14.

I've read that D14 pin is now more than capable with the newer Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors (source: https://www.hamotorsports.com/pages/eld ... dification) so that I don't ahve to remove resistors in order to use the D10 pin. I'm not super familiar with the Close Loop setup but do I have to choose which wideband I want as the primary reader to datalog against and wire that directly into either D12/D14 as oppose to using the Analog input?


Setup
PLX SM-AFR Gen4: Power: Fuse box / Ground: behind driver side kick panel / Analog Input: AN1 S300 v3
AEM X-Series 30-3000: Power: Fuse box / Ground: behind driver side kick panel / Analog Positive Input: AN2 S300 v3 / Analog Negative Input: AN Ground

Hondata CPR box : Power: A25 / Ground: A23

Do not use D14 as it cannot see the full voltage range. Use D10 or one of the other inputs available if the components are there for them to work. I would recommend that you keep the PLS, as I have seen many issues with using the AEM widebands.

Spunkster wrote: Wed May 27, 2020 1:06 pm Do not use D14 as it cannot see the full voltage range. Use D10 or one of the other inputs available if the components are there for them to work. I would recommend that you keep the PLS, as I have seen many issues with using the AEM widebands.

It looks like I might have to use D10 and cut the resistors for proper tuning.

Another question that didn't get answered is if I should I power and ground the gauges on the ecu? If that is the case, then can I just use the same leads that the Hondata CPR is already spliced into? That is.. the A24 pin for power and A23 for ground? Is there a limit to how many devices can draw from the same power source (Hondata CPR Box, PLX gauges and AEM gauge) ?

I would recommend using switched power from the fuse box under the dash, and the ground on the thermostat housing.

Spunkster wrote: Wed May 27, 2020 5:40 pm I would recommend using switched power from the fuse box under the dash, and the ground on the thermostat housing.

This is how I wired mine. I'm actually running a 12V 6-circuit sub-panel that is powered on by a relay when the key is turned on. One of the circuits on the sub-panel powers the wideband. The other circuits power the gauges and boost control solenoid. I did run the wideband ground through the firewall and all the way to the thermostat housing ground.