duty cycle drop to 0 a wot!
from 95% to 0%
i know i am to rich for now
any idea?
duty cycle to 0
duty cycle to 0
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Re: duty cycle to 0
Did the problem just start all the sudden, or was it after making some changes to the tune or new parts installed?
Can you verify your mod list as well? I see it in your calibration tab, but please elaborate so everything is clear.
Can you verify your mod list as well? I see it in your calibration tab, but please elaborate so everything is clear.
Re: duty cycle to 0
i had a race cal that worked perfectly fine.
now i try a new... non race... base map
was way to lean for first run i had bunch of fuel for second run and then
i dont have maf pluged to the car ?
now i try a new... non race... base map
was way to lean for first run i had bunch of fuel for second run and then
i dont have maf pluged to the car ?
Re: duty cycle to 0
I see. Yeah looks like you went the other way now and it's too rich. Have you made the necessary changes for the Skunk throttle body in the tune? Did they provide the necessary flow values that need to be adjusted?
Why don't you have the MAF plugged in? You have to have the MAF plugged in to function for at least intake air temp sensor. Otherwise, you have to wire in a temp sensor at least. The ECU has to have some reading for intake air temps to make the proper compensations for fueling and ignition.
If the stumble happened after making fuel changes, it most likely has something to do with that. Can you post a datalog of before the stumble when it was lean, along with the calibration that was lean as well? I don't want the race cal stuff, just the new stuff where it was lean and a datalog to show that as well.
Let me know.
Why don't you have the MAF plugged in? You have to have the MAF plugged in to function for at least intake air temp sensor. Otherwise, you have to wire in a temp sensor at least. The ECU has to have some reading for intake air temps to make the proper compensations for fueling and ignition.
If the stumble happened after making fuel changes, it most likely has something to do with that. Can you post a datalog of before the stumble when it was lean, along with the calibration that was lean as well? I don't want the race cal stuff, just the new stuff where it was lean and a datalog to show that as well.
Let me know.
Re: duty cycle to 0
1- thank you
2-my car is civic si 2008
shortram intake 3.5
old style iat ecu get intake temp
skunk 2 tb 72mm
skunk2 pro intake manifold
skunk2 alpha header
invidia q300 catback
i start with the cal provide with flashpro (FG2/FA5, CAI, Skunk2 header & catback.)
i check use speed density map fuel table
so lean the car cannot event rev to 7000
i will look at the forum if i can get a better base map!
2-my car is civic si 2008
shortram intake 3.5
old style iat ecu get intake temp
skunk 2 tb 72mm
skunk2 pro intake manifold
skunk2 alpha header
invidia q300 catback
i start with the cal provide with flashpro (FG2/FA5, CAI, Skunk2 header & catback.)
i check use speed density map fuel table
so lean the car cannot event rev to 7000
i will look at the forum if i can get a better base map!
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Re: duty cycle to 0
Yeah definitely way lean. The MAP fuels tables aren't tuned, so it makes sense. Especially with your intake manifold and TB you put on the car, every basemap will probably be lean.
I can tell you with pretty good certainty that you are going to need injectors with your setup. Probably something like RDX injectors would be perfect.
Do you want to try one of my basemaps for a car with similar mods to you? You haven't mentioned whether Skunk provides flow data for the TB. But I do have data from a guy with a K-Tuned 72mm, so we could start with that file and see how your car acts if you want.
Your IAT's are very cold, is it near freezing where you are? Not sure where you're located, but the IAT's are 37*F, which means it must be pretty much freezing outside to have that cold of an intake temp with the short ram intake you mention.
Let me know what you think on all this.
I can tell you with pretty good certainty that you are going to need injectors with your setup. Probably something like RDX injectors would be perfect.
Do you want to try one of my basemaps for a car with similar mods to you? You haven't mentioned whether Skunk provides flow data for the TB. But I do have data from a guy with a K-Tuned 72mm, so we could start with that file and see how your car acts if you want.
Your IAT's are very cold, is it near freezing where you are? Not sure where you're located, but the IAT's are 37*F, which means it must be pretty much freezing outside to have that cold of an intake temp with the short ram intake you mention.
Let me know what you think on all this.
Re: duty cycle to 0
oh, i am living canada québec!!and yes it's still cold
YES would like to try your basemap!
did not found answer about the skunk tb
good idea about rdx ,my last race map it the 90% duty
and a really good 13:1 afr from 6000rpm to 8400
it is normal to have s trim at wot or not?
YES would like to try your basemap!
did not found answer about the skunk tb
good idea about rdx ,my last race map it the 90% duty
and a really good 13:1 afr from 6000rpm to 8400
it is normal to have s trim at wot or not?
Re: duty cycle to 0
Gotcha, okay. Yeah if it's that cold then it makes sense.
No you shouldn't have any trims during WOT because the ECU is supposed to enter into open loop when it sees WOT conditions. Open loop it should go by the tuned values for fueling and not be applying trims.
I will keep the values that were given for the K-Tuned 72mm TB and see how it acts. Worst case we can put them back to stock and see how it is if there is an issue, but I don't foresee one necessarily. We'll also see how the injector duty looks on this one. 90% is technically maxed out because it becomes difficult to control at that level. The RDX's will put you back into a good duty percentage and help it be more consistent. But we'll see what the duty cycle is and go from there.
Here is the basemap for you. Take it for a quick 20 minute drive so we can see how everything looks. Don't get too wild with the driving until we see how it all looks. On your drive, make one WOT pull in third gear from 2000-8600rpms and we'll see how it looks. Again, only do one WOT pull so we can see the fueling, and veryify the stumble is gone. If everything looks good, and the stumble is gone, we can have you do more pulls in the next datalog. So just keep it normal driving for now, 20 minutes or so, one WOT pull in third from 2000-8600rpms and we'll see how it looks. Then you can get after it in the next revision if everything looks good.
No you shouldn't have any trims during WOT because the ECU is supposed to enter into open loop when it sees WOT conditions. Open loop it should go by the tuned values for fueling and not be applying trims.
I will keep the values that were given for the K-Tuned 72mm TB and see how it acts. Worst case we can put them back to stock and see how it is if there is an issue, but I don't foresee one necessarily. We'll also see how the injector duty looks on this one. 90% is technically maxed out because it becomes difficult to control at that level. The RDX's will put you back into a good duty percentage and help it be more consistent. But we'll see what the duty cycle is and go from there.
Here is the basemap for you. Take it for a quick 20 minute drive so we can see how everything looks. Don't get too wild with the driving until we see how it all looks. On your drive, make one WOT pull in third gear from 2000-8600rpms and we'll see how it looks. Again, only do one WOT pull so we can see the fueling, and veryify the stumble is gone. If everything looks good, and the stumble is gone, we can have you do more pulls in the next datalog. So just keep it normal driving for now, 20 minutes or so, one WOT pull in third from 2000-8600rpms and we'll see how it looks. Then you can get after it in the next revision if everything looks good.
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Re: duty cycle to 0
wow i am very glad
the car running great again
have to stop at 8k for safety reason
need some adjust but really good start!
I got those blue injector in a bag from the last owner of the car.
i am not sure if is the good one .they exactly the same as my toyota matrix from the ouside ...so denso
the car running great again
have to stop at 8k for safety reason
need some adjust but really good start!
I got those blue injector in a bag from the last owner of the car.
i am not sure if is the good one .they exactly the same as my toyota matrix from the ouside ...so denso
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Re: duty cycle to 0
lefT matrix right rdx?
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Re: duty cycle to 0
Very glad you're happy! I had a good feeling your car would perform good with that basemap, so I was excited to see how it went. No problem, always get out of it for safety reasons. Yeah it needs some adjustments, but for a start I couldn't be too much happier. I overlayed your pull with the pull that I used for your basemap from the other car. Pretty crazy how similar the pulls are. Your datalog got a little wacky so I had to cut it off t 7000rpm for visual sake. Yours is the orange line, and the blue line is the same tune from the other guy I worked on. You can see yours was on the same trajectory power wise as his. And yours is still rich, it might pull better in the next one with it leaned out closer to optimal. We'll see. Virtual dyno is hit and miss, so getting clean pulls can be tough. Always to to do the WOT pulls on the flattest smoothest section of road you know of. Wherever you did this one is good, but it got wacky above 7000 rpm.
Yeah they do look like RDX's. Not sure if they are the same, we'd have to check part numbers and stuff. If not, you can get RDX's for less than $300 USD that come with the harness's to make them plug and play. And your injector duty cycle was 98%, it was a little rich, so we'll see how it looks on this next one. But I still think we'll be in the 90% range which is pushing it a little.
Also on your drives, try to make them around twenty minutes if you can. That gives us a lot better average data to make tuning adjustments. Still only make one WOT pull though until I see the duty cycle with the fuel dialed. Try to get more stop and go driving as well, from signal light to signal light type driving. It populates a lot more data than steady speed does.
Overall it looks great. No knock, a little rich here and there, but for a start it's great. Here is the next one for you.
Yeah they do look like RDX's. Not sure if they are the same, we'd have to check part numbers and stuff. If not, you can get RDX's for less than $300 USD that come with the harness's to make them plug and play. And your injector duty cycle was 98%, it was a little rich, so we'll see how it looks on this next one. But I still think we'll be in the 90% range which is pushing it a little.
Also on your drives, try to make them around twenty minutes if you can. That gives us a lot better average data to make tuning adjustments. Still only make one WOT pull though until I see the duty cycle with the fuel dialed. Try to get more stop and go driving as well, from signal light to signal light type driving. It populates a lot more data than steady speed does.
Overall it looks great. No knock, a little rich here and there, but for a start it's great. Here is the next one for you.
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Re: duty cycle to 0
very cool this virtual dyno.
if it's enough close to reality you can even use it to tune the cam angle!
i got 9min this time if you really need 20 min i will do it friday.
if i got the rdx ,did i need a tune or just set the injector value is fine?
if it's enough close to reality you can even use it to tune the cam angle!
i got 9min this time if you really need 20 min i will do it friday.
if i got the rdx ,did i need a tune or just set the injector value is fine?
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Re: duty cycle to 0
Yeah the virtual dyno you have to take the peak numbers with a grain of salt. But yes, if you can produce clean runs it is very useful for cam angle mapping. The problem is clean runs can be hard to come from. Overall it is very helpful when clean runs can be duplicated.
Technically you shouldn't need a re-tune with the RDX injectors, your tune file with the flow data inputted is supposed to be sifficient. But I would ask you to plan to make a few revisions so just so we know it's right and the tune is good after. You were at 95% duty cycle on that WOT pull, so it might be a good idea to get the RDX's when you can. Let me know before you install the RDX's, if you drive on this tune with RDX's installed it will be very rich.
So that one looked really good. I made a couple small fueling changes, and some cam angle changes. But it is really close, we may be good in this next one. Yeah try to do a 20 minute datalog if you can. The better average data we get, the better the tune can be basically. Either way it looks good, I'm just OCD about some things is all.
Technically you shouldn't need a re-tune with the RDX injectors, your tune file with the flow data inputted is supposed to be sifficient. But I would ask you to plan to make a few revisions so just so we know it's right and the tune is good after. You were at 95% duty cycle on that WOT pull, so it might be a good idea to get the RDX's when you can. Let me know before you install the RDX's, if you drive on this tune with RDX's installed it will be very rich.
So that one looked really good. I made a couple small fueling changes, and some cam angle changes. But it is really close, we may be good in this next one. Yeah try to do a 20 minute datalog if you can. The better average data we get, the better the tune can be basically. Either way it looks good, I'm just OCD about some things is all.
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Re: duty cycle to 0
this is a good one 18min
i go a bit wild but just one pull to the top
do i need to hit the rev limiter?
i go a bit wild but just one pull to the top
do i need to hit the rev limiter?
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Re: duty cycle to 0
Overall it looked pretty good. For some reason the WOT fueling went a little more rich than the previous file. I am going to make some changes to the fueling, so we'll see how it looks and go from there. There was one knock in this one, so I massaged the ignition there to remove it.
No you don't need to go to 8600 if you don't want to. Try to get to at lleast 8000 or so. I can always lower the rev limit for you too if you don't want it at 8600. Just let me know.
The fueling looks good for the most part, if you need to do shorter datalogs that's fine, just make sure to get the WOT pull in third gear from 2000-8000 ish rpms so I can keep working on that.
No you don't need to go to 8600 if you don't want to. Try to get to at lleast 8000 or so. I can always lower the rev limit for you too if you don't want it at 8600. Just let me know.
The fueling looks good for the most part, if you need to do shorter datalogs that's fine, just make sure to get the WOT pull in third gear from 2000-8000 ish rpms so I can keep working on that.
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