Hondata

Hi guys


Got a b16a2 turbo forged and css I put a 4psi spring in for safety and want to map it safely to that so i can put miles on engine before i go to tuner who's like 40 miles away, its my 1st engine so im scared to put a brand new engine on dyno, id feel way more comfy making 4 psi and doing 500 miles before i put it on dyno

Heres engines full spec
B16a2 81.5mm css block from the uk no where near as good as cncerx in the us, wiseco 81.5mm pistons 9.0.1 piston, eagle rods and acl race bearings stock size, piston to wall around 3.7 3.8 manufacturers spec was 3.5 to 4 so in the middle
Top compression ring is 18/19 bottom 21/22 ( i cant remember exactly 1 of these figures is right lol )

B18c jdm integra type r head polished to fuck by me
skunk 2 titanium retainers and titanium keepers and dual valve springs
Skunk 2 stock spec valves ( valve lashed to oe spec 0.6 inlet 0.7 ext )
Super tech bronze exhaust valve guides ( only exhaust side got them super cheap brand new )
Integra type r b18c jdm cams
Cometic multilayered gasket oe thickness
Acl racing oil pump
Bosch ev14 1000cc injectors
Skunk2 4 bar map
China gt3582r
Replica tial 44mm mrv
Stock b16 inlet manifold

Think iv covered it all?

Im from UK the best pump fuel we have is 99 ron shell Vpower what sorta air fuel should i look for on cruising? I no idle is 14.6/14.7 but not sure on cruising and on boost only be like 4 psi but still wanna be safe, also what about timing im gonna set it to 16 degrees on dizzy and crank but what do i run on the car as driving and boosting? I just want it super super safe so the engine can be ran in safely but still make a little power im happy with 220 230 bhp don't care about power be awesome to make more safely but wanna stress that im happy to sacrifice power for reliability this engines my baby! Any help would be awesome or if anyone has a similar map i can use im happy to put a rev limter on it for like 4k till iv done some mileage on the engine and slowly up the limiter bit by bit!



Any help would be awesome and engine break in advice would be sweet to!

I prefer the hard break in method. Start it up, check for leaks, let it run until the radiator fan cycles, shut it off, then change the oil and filter. With new oil and filter, I accelerate in 2nd and 3rd gear and then let it coast down in gear several times. I drive about 20 miles or so doing this, then I start driving it like normal. I change the oil again at 500 miles. After that, it's ready to go.

I'm not a tuner by any means, but here are my suggestions. Cruising vacuum I like to see 15.0 or less for AFR. Transitioning into boost I want it dropping to about 13.0, first few pounds of boost at 12.5, then in high boost dropping to about 11.5.

For timing you're going to need to tune on a dyno. Start with the stock timing maps. I've heard people say a decent rule of thumb is to pull 1 degree of timing per psi of boost.

I would recommend seeing if your tuner could give you a base map, and stay out of boost as much as possible until you can get it tuned. If you're dead set on doing something before hand, have you taken a look in the Hondata vault for a calibration that is close to your setup?

DaX wrote: Mon Feb 03, 2020 10:22 am I prefer the hard break in method. Start it up, check for leaks, let it run until the radiator fan cycles, shut it off, then change the oil and filter. With new oil and filter, I accelerate in 2nd and 3rd gear and then let it coast down in gear several times. I drive about 20 miles or so doing this, then I start driving it like normal. I change the oil again at 500 miles. After that, it's ready to go.

I'm not a tuner by any means, but here are my suggestions. Cruising vacuum I like to see 15.0 or less for AFR. Transitioning into boost I want it dropping to about 13.0, first few pounds of boost at 12.5, then in high boost dropping to about 11.5.

For timing you're going to need to tune on a dyno. Start with the stock timing maps. I've heard people say a decent rule of thumb is to pull 1 degree of timing per psi of boost.

I would recommend seeing if your tuner could give you a base map, and stay out of boost as much as possible until you can get it tuned. If you're dead set on doing something before hand, have you taken a look in the Hondata vault for a calibration that is close to your setup?

Yh no luck with similar maps as im from uk all the dudes in states run e85 and alot more timing lol