VTC acting wierd

[NEEMA144]

Hi
I was driving the other night and my car hiccuped during a pull.
Engine is a K24a2 with modified VTC for 45 degree following Hondata procedure with Drag Cartel stage 4 cams.

I have attached the datalog.
It happens on the last pull

Also my car stalls due to throttle body not being a quality one (centerfeed manifold with 90 mm tb) but right before it stalls cam angle goes to 107 and then it dies.It happens couple of times.
What could be the cause?
Are these two incidents related?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance

[Hondata]

It's not the cam going to 107degs, but one or both of the cam positions sensors are loosing signal because the rpm is dropping so low.

However, the cam angle signal has a lot of noise, which could be from the cam profile, or the wiring / VTC solenoid / oil pressure.

[Spunkster]

Why is your battery voltage moving around so much?

[NEEMA144]

Thanks for answering.

I have Drag cartel 4.0 cams.
Prb ecu
I tried PRC and PNf solenoid both brand new with no change.
I have wired the negative from VTC solenoid to chasis.
Oil pressure is above 90 psi from my oil gauge reading.

[NEEMA144]

I have relocated the battrey to the back.
Could this be the cause? Or my alternator is going bad?

[Hondata]

Probably. Fix the battery problem first, and see if it fixes the others.

[NEEMA144]

The battrey cables are 6 gauge and should be fine.
But I 'll try to re enforce them.

Yesterday I took the car for a ride. It was ok and all of a sudden the car started going lean and was misfiring. I parked the car and revved the car and it was fine. Then after few seconds started leaning out and misfiring. I tried this couple of times and the same result. Then revving didn't change anything.
I checked the ELD amp and it was aroound 12 and it misfired. But when I revved it went to 27-30 amps and it was fine. Just an observation.

Then I turbed the lights and high beamed the car went really worse and super lean.

My guess Alternator
As spunkster mentioned before?
Do yoi agree?
How can I test?

[Hondata]

There is a lot more to relocating the battery than the wire gauge. First, if at all possible don't relocate the battery because it always is going to be a compromise. What compelling reason is there to relocate it?
Next, the battery cable length as well as size is important, and the number of connections. It is important to have one cable, with both crimped and soldered ends, which no joins running from the battery to the starter motor and also to the alternator. You can use one cable to do this, but going through the factory fuse box and ELD will cause problems. Then based on the length you can select cable size, but if the battery is in the trunk 6 gauge will probably have too much voltage drop from the alternator to the battery. However, in most cases it is the cable ends and unnecessary joins in the cable which are the problem.

[NEEMA144]

There is a lot more to relocating the battery than the wire gauge. First, if at all possible don't relocate the battery because it always is going to be a compromise. What compelling reason is there to relocate it?
Next, the battery cable length as well as size is important, and the number of connections. It is important to have one cable, with both crimped and soldered ends, which no joins running from the battery to the starter motor and also to the alternator. You can use one cable to do this, but going through the factory fuse box and ELD will cause problems. Then based on the length you can select cable size, but if the battery is in the trunk 6 gauge will probably have too much voltage drop from the alternator to the battery. However, in most cases it is the cable ends and unnecessary joins in the cable which are the problem.

Thanks
I have checked everything and serviced the alternator and it is charging 14.4v and checked at the battery end and it is reading 14.39v.

Today when I first installed the alternator and uploaded there was a sisterboard communication error.
why is that?
Then I checked the connection and cleared the error and started the car. It was running lean and had a rough idle. we tried disconnecting the coils one by one to figure if it was misfiring. It didn't make a difference.

I checked the ELD votage and it was constant at 5 v.
Should it be like that?
I run my wide band through the ELD pin and seems like it is working only 0.1-0.2 difference.
I think my wiring behind the ecu at the socket is causing this.

Finally I decided to add some fuel fro the "fuel trim" section. I set it at -5 at the dyno and it was fine so I changed it to 2 and all of sudden the car is fine.

now the fuel line is suspect.
What can cause this?
fuel line -10
walbro 255 in tank
aeromotiv A1 FPR
1200cc Fuel injectors low impedance with resistor box
Aem fuel filter

I will check and make sure all the wiring to the sockets behind the ecu is fine and then take it for a spin and take a log. hopefully it is fixed.

PS. how can I copy 40 degree tables to the 30 degree tables?

now I checked my three datalogs from today and it seems ELD and wideband reading is acting different in all of them.
must be wiring?!!!!!

[Hondata]

The battery voltage is still all over the place. It is not worth trying to diagnose any further until that is fixed.

[NEEMA144]

The battery voltage is still all over the place. It is not worth trying to diagnose any further until that is fixed.

Exactly, I forgot to add why the voltmeter is reading 14.39 and the datalog shows 13.9 ish?
Could be the sisterboard?

[Hondata]

The voltmeter is not recording like the datalog. It could be there is a bad or missing ground somewhere, but given you've relocated the battery which we know can cause the same problem, I'd look at that first. I think we've made that fairly clear and we going in circles now.