Hondata

I was looking at images of kpro ecus and I noticed that none of the images I saw had extra wires soldered on the board. I'm concerned that my ecu could be crippled from a loose wire. I've never put much thought into it until recently when I blew a motor and replaced it with another and had similar issues as the previous motor.
My gas guage has been acting strangely since the new motor as well or else I forgot it was acting up before. When it's close to a quarter empty it will dip down and the low fuel lamp will illuminate and then it will slowly go back up.
The issues I'm experiencing is inconsistent surging idle, where I have the idle valve duty cycle at its lowest setting, idle at 800. Car for the most part idles much closer to idle setting but not always. And oftentimes idle will rise and fall from about 1400 down to 800, with some give or take of numbers.
the other issue that actually concerns me more involves normal or wot acceleration, under normal acceleration the ignition or fuel is cut at about 2000rpm and comes back after a few seconds. If I push the throttle more or Rev it more than 2k rpm this won't happen.
The other related condition would be under a sudden wot condition or near wot condition where fuel/ignition is cut for several seconds unless I pulse the throttle or shift to a higher gear, or use partial throttle less than wot and then smoothly open to wot.
I believe I have data logs of these occurrences but not sure. Will add later if so.

Rather than pinning the blame on the ECU (or 'extra' wires?) it would be best to start by following the posting guidelines and give information so people can help you.
The fuel gauge is between the sender unit and dash - the ECU does not control it. Also with the RSX the fuel gauge behavior below 1/4 is a known problem with the vehicle. For your other problems you'll need to provide more information.

i did not mean to solely place blame on the ecu.
I did not think the fuel gauge signal came from the ecu, however I thought it may be a symptom of failing sender unit or questionable fuel pump assembly, or water corrosion in the connectors or wiring.

- 2002 Honda Civic DX
- Modifications that may affect ecu:
* 74mm Hybrid Racing Throttle Body, PRB intake manifold ported TB opening match 74mm TB
* INJEN SRI
* K20Z3 Transmission with ep3 2nd gear and LSD, also using the magnetic speed sensor
* K24a1 Block with k20a2 oil pump and k20a2 Cylinder head
* Hybrid racing fuel rail, removed fuel pulse dampener
* Removed powersteering, replaced with ep3 pulley
* otherwise stock 2002 civic dx wiring, added rsx guage cluster, hybrid racing conversion harness

Attaching datalogs but i havent reviewed them, may not be relevant to showing the issue but possible. Should be obvious where ignition is cut, usually at 2k rpm or vtech

When i time to remove the ECU i will record pictures of the board.

Some ideas that may be cause are lean protection, tip-in, and or gear comp.

In Gear Comp, 'Tip In retard gear multiplier' set all values to -100

Adjusting gear comp made shifts a lot better.
while driving this morning, I had the problem arise again, and was able to repeat it over and over. I noticed my temp was above 200, and my tps wasn't reading at the lower level where the throttle is barely open. Under those conditions the car would accelerate up to about 2k rpm, stall down to about 1200-1k then accelerate again upto 2k, repeat. So I'm having some issue with my tps being unhappy when hot. I have just bought the Hondas I'M gasket but not yet installed. I have the ktuned bullet hall effect tps. Been really stable for the most part but I don't have a gasket for it. Will return when I have more data and perform more tests and I do something about the tps gasket.