Hondata

Hello, I just picked up an S300 v3 for my car. Only catch is, I'm stationed in Italy and the only mechanic in the region I'm in that does performance work has never touched Hondata! I've never tuned anything and my previous tuner was killed about a year or so ago, so I'm gonna have to learn to do it on my own. The car had crome previously and she leaned out on top, so now the engine is torn apart for a full rebuild. That's why I chose to switch to Hondata now.

I have no idea where to start, absolutely any help is appreciated. I have the board here and I'm downloading the software to start looking at it. Any "Do'" or "Don'ts" I should be aware of when starting tuning? I've been browsing some of the threads on here, but I've got to at least start familarizing myself with the software, screens and options if I can. The shop knows how to tune and has a dyno, just not sure what they use (mostly european cars). I need to be able to help them out as much as possible with this software.

First questions though.. Can I use the P28 that was chipped, or do I have to source a new ecu for the s300? Is there a thread I'm missing for beginners you can direct me to? I'm all for doing my own legwork, I'm just not finding the basic/beginner information I'm looking for. Again, any help is appreciated!!

CRX EE8
B16a1 @ 82mm, turbo, 4bar, P28, OBD1 conv

You should start with the S300 User Manual. You can find it here:
http://hondata.com/help/smanager/index.html

Thanks! I had already started to look at it, but my work is so crazy that I figured I'd throw the question out to see if anyone had anything else for a beginner that might help, do's/don'ts, etc. they learned through experience. If I can avoid a landmine, I'm all for it ;) Once I'm done reading the user guide I'm sure I'll have more specific questions.

You should not use a previously chipped ECU, unless your a professional at removing solder joints from Silicone boards, as with a soldering gun it's easy to remove the tracers from the board, you could use a soldering heat gun as this will be avoided and a air compressor to blast the solder out of the holes, but do this at your own risk, if you mess up, your buying a new ECU :) if you decide to go with a boost control solenoid you will need to add the correct components for PWM, this information can be googled, also to buy hondata chip and components you'll need to do so through an Authorized dealer which can also be located from the hondata site dealers list. when you start to tune you'll want to load up a base map as close to your engine as possible, example d16y8? b16a? b18c5(gsr)? b20b? then you can start tuning the low cam and high cam fuel once all the following has been completed first, wide band sensor and gauge have been installed in the exhaust before the catalytic converter, (wide band installation includes, connecting red wire to auxiliary 12v power, on when key is switched to ignition(I) position, and connected to OBDI ecu wire D14 O2 input or D10ELD input(this input requires 2 resistors to be removed from the ECU visit PLX and ELD resistor page on hondatas website) or any of the other 2 inputs to choose from, then set your wideband voltage offset, if you can turn the car on for a bit and get the sensor to indicate between 11 - 16 Air Fuel ratio you can compare this to what hondata is seeing. once the offset is adjusted the next thing to look at would be if you have different injectors then the 240cc ones, if your car is a prelude it by default had 310cc injectors and should already be in the ecu settings for whatever default map you chose for the engine you have, if you have larger injectors you'll want to enter that # under current injector size on the fuel trim page, and you'll need to change the injector dead times if you purchased after market injectors and use the data sheet provided, one thing I ran into while tuning new injectors is a rich miss which would cause my wideband to read lean but there was too much fuel and it was actually running rich, so just be aware of this, also watch out for open and closed loop operations, as any modifications you make to fuel while in closed loop will do nothing good as to be precise the ecu is already compensating from all the inputs on it's own. i'm sure you can figure the rest out on your own, quick question are you going turbo or NA?