Hondata

Hi any one used thus map yet is this safe anough to use iv uploaded one recently high speed eml flashed signs of kncok

Your fuel curves are crossing into each other on all degree maps. You will get a much more stable af if you keep them separate from each other and flattened, but not an artificial like flattening.

curtusz wrote:my car doesn't run in positive pressure its not boosted so that top line would be unused on high cam so doesn't matter if you overlap ... or am I wrong? and my a/f is upto 1-2% in very few places my car never reads the top coloum ever in high cam only in low cam but the air may/should differ on other cars this is not tuned to perfection by no means rather a hour or 2 of street tuning, its basically the outcome of the factory map with higher rev limit accustomed to the mods I have with basically only the a/f and ignition in high cam (vtec) at w.o.t have been tuned and the log in to before and after on v.d

My car reaches column ten and so do several that i tune, and these are all naturally aspirated. It could all very well be due to the location and climate of the area. Either way i try to keep them all parallel to maintain the same pattern. This creates a much easier transitioning for future modifications or boost applications being thrown into the mix so that a new map and retuning can be avoided. I will upload my dyno tuned calibration tuned by myself. I mentioned wanting flat fuel curves in an earlier post but not to the point of having them be artificially flattened. In areas of the map that arent used for say the 0 cam degree angle, could raise the fuel to be at the same point of where it is actually used while the car is being driven. This would make your map almost completely flat, but serves no purpose and will run the same way. Artificially flattening the map past this point is grabbing individual cells and making each map 100% flat. This will not run any better then ones with minor imperfections, and can actually cause a more unstable af.

curtusz wrote:just checked your map your a/f doesn't seem custom , or is this the artificialness you are talking about? but to that id say your ignition timing looks very odd /custom , but whats catching my attention is your block k24 with a compression ratio of 11.5.1 with a cammed head along with the valve train ive never seen or heard of anything over here with that kinda set up , do you find the port and polish to any benefit ? ive mapped a few type rs here we kinda just do it for fun, not for a living, I suppose that I should make basemaps here rather than customs.

No mine isnt artificially adjusted, I smoothed all maps, but didnt flatten to make them easier on the eye per say. Ignition timing was only tuned on WOT and median column 7, Stock Decel and cruise timing cells were all left similar to factory settings and paired with a 0 degree angle for most cruise to help streetability with the aftermarket cams. I do find benefit from the port and polish on the head. Well i think i do anyways. I carry power to 8600 on almost all cam angles with a k24 while another engine i tuned that was using the same cams,head/block combo and valvetrain, yet no port/polish or valvejob that power would fall off around 8100. Only difference in modifications were the head work, his pistons being 12.5:1, and exhaust brand. I made 264/199 to his 254/193

This be any good to use with a race header instead?

Cheers for the reply mate, Ive got a UK spec aswell would this surely not be better than one of the base maps as this seems as close to my setup as possible: tegiwa m intake, toyosports 4-2-1 manifold and 2.5" b pipe.

Nah no a/f gauge

Gotcha, What basemap would you say is best suited?

Ah ive only got a kpro v2, was hoping there was just a map that I could run a safe 220 odd bhp

The Dyno tuned one? and will it not run lean as everyone says this is the case when putting a race header on? thanks for answering all my questions btw

Ok cool mate, thanks for your help. So the dyno tuned one should be fine?

Are they hard to install? I had a brief look and do you have to connect something in the exhaust?