Hondata

I have an USDM EP3 and have recently had a K20A2 put in. It is a rebuilt one purchased new. I reused all my parts from my A3 including the valve cover (it did not come with it.) I have tried several of the stock hondata maps and tweaking them and also a few from the vault. The issue I am having is an idle dip which is illustrated in the following video link, and also when I let off the throttle to shift, etc it goes down to a very lean A/F ratio which also happens when it dips. I have checked my TPS, MAP sensor, and cleaned the throttle body and IACV but it made no difference. My mechanic took a look at it and all he could tell is that the ECU is sending the signal which triggers the dip.

Here is what I have:
K20A2 with all K20A3 accessories including wiring harness and valve cover
Kpro v1 with PRB ECU (these were in the car when I got it so God knows how old they are)
Apexi cat back
HPR header
Injen SRI
RDX 410cc injectors (there are no specific hondata basemaps for this)

Here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa4Vv3i ... ata_player

I will attach some datalogs, and also the calibration I am currently using.

Any help is appreciated and I fully understand that any help, maps, kals given are used under my own responsibility and that the user who submitted it is in no way responsible for any damage incurred.
Thank you.

Forgot to mention, first through fifth is in closed loop not open.

Has this been propelry tuned yet?

No I will be going this Saturday. I was just trying to get it running well before then. Do not worry about any further advice right now. If I have any issues after having it tuned I will return.

Well I got it tuned. It was tuned by the closest Hondata authorized dealer.

It still does the dip when going back down to idle when coming to a stop, blipping the throttle, etc. I even went back to him after he first did it when I was on my way home and noticed that it still did it. He adjusted the iacv slider to the right some more. It still didn't fix it and he told me that I should try adjusting more myself and that this is the price you pay for larger injectors.

I don't know if this could have anything to do with it, but ever since the swap I've been having issues with ignition coils dying. It seems that number four is the one that dies most often. I've also been having issues with electronics seeming to be putting to much of a strain on the system. Like if I have the lights on and do something like turn on the wipers or even turn the wheel the lights dim for a second. And the idle of the engine makes the digital odometer backlight flicker differently.

I'm at the point of giving up, I don't know what to do anymore.

If you have having coils die, then it sounds like you have a wiring fault of some kind. You should take the car to someone very familiar with engine swaps and have them go over everything and help you find where the problem is.

OK, thank you. The same guy is the nearest Honda guru that I know of and trust. I thought that maybe it was because I bought the eBay brand coils or because the spark plugs kept fouling because it was running rich before I could get it tuned, but with all the other stuff that's been going on a wiring fault would make sense.

::Blows dust off of thread::
Well it is almost two years later and I am still having random misfires. I've replaced ignition coils, spark plugs, cleaned the iacv and throttle body, tried different brands of 93 octane gas, run seafoam through, checked for vacuum leaks, had the Honda swap expert take a look at it, tried changing little things in the kal like disable ignition retard when cold, and the iacv slider, tried changing the injector dead times to the actual rdx injectors' dead times that I found, and nothing has helped. The problem isn't even consistent, sometimes it will run fine, other times it will almost die after cranking and then get better as the car warms, and other times it runs like crap warm or not. And it went from showing codes on cylinder 2, 3, and 4, to now all four. But I could clear those codes and it might say something different the next time the CEL comes on. I've tried searching for answers, but I can't find anyone who's had the exact same problem, usually theirs is on one or two cylinders and an ignition coil, spark plug, etc. fixes it. Idk what to do, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mooky

And here are the two kals that were tuned by the closest Hondata licensed shop. The first one was his effort to remedy the idle dip. And while it worked when I was there it soon went back to messing up.

So how did you remedy the problem? New ELD? Or was the battery the problem?

Well I've ordered a new eld, and the battery is still fairly new so I'll hold off on that for now and see if the eld makes a difference. I've been trying to figure this out for a while, so any help is much appreciated. Ta mate.

I really don't know what else to try, so I'm starting from the basics.

For this setup what plugs and gap would you recommend. At the moment I am using the recommended stock Densos with the pre-gap of 1.1 mm. I have also used the NGK's, same gap, same results. I am not making much power (192whp/154wtq), but should I use the NGK 2668's (BKR8EIX)? Being that they are the lowest heat range of the recommended plugs on the Hondata Kpro information concerning resistor and non-resistor plugs.

Any input/help/ridicule for not noticing the obvious problem that I was blind to, is greatly appreciated,
Mooky