Hondata

I'm hoping someone here can help me....I will post my setup below after I explain my problem. First off, my CEL light is on constantly but there aren't any codes displayed when I open Smanager. As a matter of fact, I can't make any changes to the ECU because all the boxes are gray and it won't let me click on them. The ECU says it's online and it's datalogging but nothing will come up. I bought the ECU about a year and a half ago from Evan's Tuning in PA and haven't had any problems since my tune. The car will start up and run but it's like it's running in limp mode. Idle is terrible and the car will barely move and back fires like crazy because I think it's getting way to much fuel due to the 450cc injectors dumping too much fuel. This issue started one night out of the blue when I tried to start my car. Here's what Evans told me to do to try and fix the problem...I erased the ECU and about 3/4 of the way through, the CEL light went out and the ECU led went from red to green but when the erasing process got to about 98%, the ECU would say "ECU did not erase". So I went back in and erased it again. This time it went through perfect and about twice as fast. I uploaded my calibration file from my tune and everything appeared good to go. The function boxes were lit up and I could datalog if I wanted to but I didn't change anything. I turned the key off and gathered my tools, got back in the car and turned the ignition to ON position II and then the CEL came back on and the ECU led was red again. I hooked my laptop back up and all the functions were gray again. So I started over again...same thing happened again when trying to erase the ECU. It didn't go through the first try but on the second try it was successful so I unplugged and uploaded the calibration file again. I unplugged my laptop and left the key on, then I started my car and it ran perfect. I took it for a 10 minute ride and it ran smoother than it has in a long time. I came back home, turned off the ignition, turned it back on and the CEL/red led came back on. Like I stated earlier, it's like the ECU is running in limp mode and it's dumping too much fuel because I'm using the 450cc injectors. It appears to me that something is wrong with the ECU/S300 system because my calibration is gone when I re-open the program after the ignition has been turned off. It's like it can't remember anything that's loaded onto it. Has anyone else ever had this issue? Do you think it's the ECU or the S300 board? This is my daily driver and I have no other car so I need to figure this out asap. Sorry for the long message but I figured the more info the better. I'm open to any suggestions or advice because I'm brand new to the S300 system and tuning. I can do the basics but other than that I leave the tuning to the people who are the experts. I love the S300 and never had problems until now but I realize sometimes electronics just quit working. Thanks in advance for anyone's help. Here is my setup:


Car

-97 Honda Accord LX

-OBD2-OBD1 Conversion Harness



ECU

-Hondata S300 P28 ECU bought from Evan's Tuning Serial# 12353 - Tuned by Evans on 12/10/11



Motor

-94 JDM H22a motor

-Stock Block

-Evans Tuning Stage 2 Head Package includes 5 Angle Valve Job, Skunk2 Pro Series Valve Springs, Skunk2 Titanium Retainers & Skunk2 Pro Series Valves (Standard size)

-Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 1 Camshafts

-Skunk2 Tuner Series Adjustable Cam Gears

-OEM Timing & Balancer Belts

-H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion

-Euro-R Single Belt Crank Pulley

-AEM Alternator Pulley



Exhaust

-Authentic Hytech Tri-Y Header

-60mm Exhaust Piping with OBX weld-in flexpipe & gutted Magnaflow high-flow catalytic converter

-Greddy SP2 Muffler



Air

-Euro-R Intake Manifold with Maxbore to 65mm

-04 S2000 Throttle Body with Maxbore 65mm to 70mm taper (No idle screw)

-3.5" Intake Tubing (The length of a cold air intake)

-3.5" BPI Flowstack

-3.5" K&N Air Filter (Large Cone Style)

-Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket



Ignition

-Optima 75/35 Redtop Battery

-NGK OEM Blue Spark Plug Wires

-NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, Part# ZFR6FIX-11

-Internal Coil

-OEM Ignition System with Mr. Gasket Distributor Cap & OEM rotor



Fuel

-450cc DSM Blue Top Injectors

-Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump

-AEM Fuel Rail

-AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator w/Marshall's Gauge

-OEM Integra Map Sensor, Denso Part# TN079800-3280



Transmission

-M2A4 Manual Transmission

-Valeo Clutch

-Lighweight Flywheel



Miscellaneous

-93a Urethane-filled Motor Mounts

-Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator & 2 Mishimoto fans

-OEM Thermostat

-OBX Silicone Radiator Hoses

Send an email to upport <at> hondata.com with the following and I will issue an RMA and give you further
instructions (include a link to this thread):

Name:
Address:
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Serial#:
Description of problem:

Email with everything requested has been sent. Thanks for the quick response.

I've got same problem with my s300, did your problem has been solved?

my friend had these similar issues and I pulled his board up off of the ecu and then set it back into the socket and it worked fine after. I noticed that when the ecu cover was screwed down it would budge the head unit to a point where it was acting faulty from a poor pin to socket connection.