Engine randomly cutting out
Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:42 am
Hope someone here can help with this...
I've been running a Hondata S300 for nearly 7 years now which I purchased pre-installed into a socketed ECU. The engine is a B18C5 heavily modified but still NA.
I've got a PLX WideBand 02 sensor hard wired to the ECU using both the narrow band input for closed loop operation and the wide band input into the ELD pin.
I've been running this setup without issue until recently I have run into a problem that seems to be random in nature but persistent.
When running the engine, under load or just idling, the check engine light will suddenly come on solid and the engine will do its best to stop. I can keep it running if I give massive inputs on the throttle. The readout from the wide band sensor suggests a bunch of fuel is being dumped into the engine. If I release the throttle the engine quits immediately.
If I remove the key, reinsert it and they try to restart the car the check engine light remains lit and the car is almost impossible to start. If I do get it running its requires massive throttle inputs as before and quits as soon as I release the throttle.
I have connected the Hondata to my laptop when in this state and while I can get the data-logging to "connect" the results are very erratic. with the cursor jumping all over the place and no sensor data being shown. Hondata shows no codes being thrown.
If I leave the car alone for 30+ minutes and then try to restart the car the problem does not go away.
The problem does seem to go away if I disconnect the battery or ECU wire harness from the ECU for several minutes.
I have checked the engine groundings and they all appear very solidly connected.
I have installed a new battery (the old one did have a weak cell), and this did not resolve the problem.
I have since removed the cover from the ECU now and removed and reinstalled the S300 into the socket.
I noticed a fairly high temperature on the regulator that is mounted to the L-bracket heat sink that is then riveted to the case. I tried pressing this device to the heat sink to see if I could improve the thermal transfer. That may have helped (but honestly I'm clueless if this device going into thermal shutdown - assuming it has it - would cause the symptoms I'm seeing).
I have now driven about 4 hours since opening the ECU cover and adjusting the regulator and so far the ECU has not cut-out. I did drive around before in 1-2 hour stints without ECU cut-outs so this latest period of operation is not conclusive.
Does anyone here have any ideas on what I should do to continue this investigation? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
Doug
I've been running a Hondata S300 for nearly 7 years now which I purchased pre-installed into a socketed ECU. The engine is a B18C5 heavily modified but still NA.
I've got a PLX WideBand 02 sensor hard wired to the ECU using both the narrow band input for closed loop operation and the wide band input into the ELD pin.
I've been running this setup without issue until recently I have run into a problem that seems to be random in nature but persistent.
When running the engine, under load or just idling, the check engine light will suddenly come on solid and the engine will do its best to stop. I can keep it running if I give massive inputs on the throttle. The readout from the wide band sensor suggests a bunch of fuel is being dumped into the engine. If I release the throttle the engine quits immediately.
If I remove the key, reinsert it and they try to restart the car the check engine light remains lit and the car is almost impossible to start. If I do get it running its requires massive throttle inputs as before and quits as soon as I release the throttle.
I have connected the Hondata to my laptop when in this state and while I can get the data-logging to "connect" the results are very erratic. with the cursor jumping all over the place and no sensor data being shown. Hondata shows no codes being thrown.
If I leave the car alone for 30+ minutes and then try to restart the car the problem does not go away.
The problem does seem to go away if I disconnect the battery or ECU wire harness from the ECU for several minutes.
I have checked the engine groundings and they all appear very solidly connected.
I have installed a new battery (the old one did have a weak cell), and this did not resolve the problem.
I have since removed the cover from the ECU now and removed and reinstalled the S300 into the socket.
I noticed a fairly high temperature on the regulator that is mounted to the L-bracket heat sink that is then riveted to the case. I tried pressing this device to the heat sink to see if I could improve the thermal transfer. That may have helped (but honestly I'm clueless if this device going into thermal shutdown - assuming it has it - would cause the symptoms I'm seeing).
I have now driven about 4 hours since opening the ECU cover and adjusting the regulator and so far the ECU has not cut-out. I did drive around before in 1-2 hour stints without ECU cut-outs so this latest period of operation is not conclusive.
Does anyone here have any ideas on what I should do to continue this investigation? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
Doug