Hondata

I need advice from people with good tuning experience.

My setup : 10:1 stock H22A1 OBD2 engine, Hondata S200 P28, Jackson Racing 6 psi kit, 4000RPM VTEC engagment. 7.5 psi before VTEC, 6-6.5 psi in VTEC.

My actual timing (P28 w/ S200) have up to 31 degrees of advance (at WOT). I'm always running 94 octane gas and have the J&S safeguard looking for detonation. As far as I know, there is now very little detonation above 7000RPM depending on the J&S sensitivity adjusment, and not all the time!? I just noticed a very small amounts of white/silver specs on the plugs few days ago... seems like the timing maps are right at the edge of detonation...

The tuner (a knowledgeable one that I don't want to mention the name for obvious reason) first notice that there was a 5 degrees difference between the Hondata RomEditor dattalogging (21) and the one recorded at the Flywhell with the stroboscope light (16 degrees). Because it is a ODB2 engine there was no way to play with the distributor orientation. This 5 deg difference confused us a bit, so the timing maps reflect this 5 degrees difference. i.e. even if the maximum targetted advance timing was 25-26, we end up with up to 30-31 degrees maps. The SAE Dyno we end up with has exactly the same numbers as the one JR advertised for the prelude. We tried 25 degrees map but I lost 10-15HP everywhere... and It peaked at 210SAE whp only.

But after checking with Matt (Hondata), he said to use only the Hondalogger for dattalogging and not to use the Romeditor for this. So apparently, the timing maps I have reflect the reality.


My questions :
- So what would be a safe zone with 94 octane gas ?
- Anyone ever noticed a difference in timing like us ?
- ANYBODY AWARE OF THE MAXIMUM TIMING ADVANCE ON A STOCK P13 USDM ECU at WOT ??? This would give me a good starting point, since I know that I was able to run a relatively safe 0.3-0.4 deg./psi of
boost retard my with sotck ECU with the JR fuel/timing EMS... without detonation.

Than you in advance....

I have a similar settup. Do not reply as i dont come here often.


Fully built H22, JRSC 12psi, Hondata S200, J&S, etc, etc. You can find me at "the old one"


Your actual timing SHOULD match the timing you read in the software. You need to put a light on the car and read the timing. Go into ROM editor and adjust the "Base timing" untill the numbers dataloged by ROM editor AND Hondalogger BOTH read the same as the light,,,,, I>E> yhou should see this:

LIGHT FLASHING: 14 degrees (or whatever yours is)
ROM EDITOR: 14 degrees
HONDA LOGGER: 14 degrees


They should ALL be the same. Remember that it can be a little difficult to get a clear read on the timing with the H22. THere are two "sight" marks and if you dont have the pin lined up with the fork you will read the timing wrong (i am sure you know this)

I agree that your timing seems high. I have the same problem.... I run around 28 to 34 degrees of advance at high rpm... Depending on my octane. What it all boils down to is every motor is different. Dont take advice from somone running a N/A D-series as their experience is not applicable. I have built and blown up 3 jrsc h22a4'S and i know that settup.

(the secret is the tune.... and forged pistons if you are rough on it)


SO, make your timing match.

Upgrade to the newest ROM editor and Hondalogger.

Set your J&S at between 9 o-clock and 10 o-clock..... (we have to set the sensitivity a little lower that most, dont ask me why)

Set it to pull 1 degree at a time from individual cylnders

(sorry about hte spelling, i am "scribbling"


what else....

Oh, dont upgrade your pulleys unless your port the supercharger and head and build the bottom end. It will come apart on you....

Sounds to me like you are getting GREAT power if you are getting what JR says they got. I never got that much while mine was stock.

I now get between 270 and 300 WHP dep
ending on how much timing i add. WIth this settup, the more you add the more you get. Those numbers are 13psi on the ragged edge with 200 intake temps, Kamakazi header, aem intake, fully built, A/C, Power steering, Endyn worked everything.

Tq was 210 - 230.

Good luck and be content. Sounds like you are having a much "better time of it" than most with this settup.

Thanks a lot.

My lude is a 1996 Si VTEC w/ : kami header 2.5'' dp, 2.5'' brullen catback, 2.5'' testpipe, AEM PP, Hondata IM gasket, BKR7EIX plug, STOCK air filter w/ 3'' inlet duct (no resonator)... that's about it for power mods.

Yes my J&S sensitivity is well adjusted... I had the chance to install it and adjust it before going F.I. ... 10 o'clock too.