Stalling only in closed loop?
Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 9:15 am
2003 RSX type S
Greddy Turbo Kit
Greddy Intercooler
3" exhaust and exhaust
RC 750cc
Kpro
New Parts (replaced trying to figure this problem out)
AEM Dry Flow Air Filter
Denso primary o2
New vacuum lines
Turbo Manifold (incase the old cast had cracked)
IAT Sensor
Cleaned the IACV already
Josh over at kpro tuners has been helping me sort this out. But the car was professionally tuned on a dyno a few years ago. But as with age I imaging stuff has chaged and with the help of Josh I have been tuning my fuel maps trying to figure out why this car has been stalling. It's not like I'm sitting at a light and it stalls, no I push the clutch in and the car dies. Not everytime, but a good chunk. Enough for me not to feel safe driving it since I lose power steering and power brakes.
A few things I've noticed, in closed loop with the IAT unplugged I never had a problem stalling (reasoning behind replacing it with a new oem).
Second, I can drive in open loop all day long and not have an issue stalling. It drops right to the idle, never below. (assuming that means the iacv is still good?) Third, it happens only when it's been driven for more than 20min, after highway drives it's worse.
Things that have already been done, in order
-Adjusted idle duty valve, many times haha
-Added more fuel at idle
-Noticed the cam angle would change before the stalling, causing ignition to jump. So cams angle set to 0
-Adjusted IAT compensation, always worse at temps above 120, it would lean out at idle. No longer is the leaning the case
I added my latest datalog, I don't get many chances to take it out. I only added my closed loop operation. Check 20:40 is one of the stalls, and the crappy idle after that. Any other ideas??
Greddy Turbo Kit
Greddy Intercooler
3" exhaust and exhaust
RC 750cc
Kpro
New Parts (replaced trying to figure this problem out)
AEM Dry Flow Air Filter
Denso primary o2
New vacuum lines
Turbo Manifold (incase the old cast had cracked)
IAT Sensor
Cleaned the IACV already
Josh over at kpro tuners has been helping me sort this out. But the car was professionally tuned on a dyno a few years ago. But as with age I imaging stuff has chaged and with the help of Josh I have been tuning my fuel maps trying to figure out why this car has been stalling. It's not like I'm sitting at a light and it stalls, no I push the clutch in and the car dies. Not everytime, but a good chunk. Enough for me not to feel safe driving it since I lose power steering and power brakes.
A few things I've noticed, in closed loop with the IAT unplugged I never had a problem stalling (reasoning behind replacing it with a new oem).
Second, I can drive in open loop all day long and not have an issue stalling. It drops right to the idle, never below. (assuming that means the iacv is still good?) Third, it happens only when it's been driven for more than 20min, after highway drives it's worse.
Things that have already been done, in order
-Adjusted idle duty valve, many times haha
-Added more fuel at idle
-Noticed the cam angle would change before the stalling, causing ignition to jump. So cams angle set to 0
-Adjusted IAT compensation, always worse at temps above 120, it would lean out at idle. No longer is the leaning the case
I added my latest datalog, I don't get many chances to take it out. I only added my closed loop operation. Check 20:40 is one of the stalls, and the crappy idle after that. Any other ideas??