Hondata

Vehicle is a 1994 Honda Accord with an H22, daily driver, not stripped out race car. Running a V1 S300. Made 450whp last weekend, won't make 100 in it's current state and the CPR is the only change.

CPR was professionally installed, orange and white wires pinned directly to ECU plug, ground soldered to A23 about 1" from plug, power to A25 about 1" from plug. Coil and ignitor were removed from the distributor. Ground on t-stat is clean is corrosion free. Disabled launch control. Disabled and unplugged PWM boost control.

Running Denso coils: 099700-070. Have also tried 099700-0430, no change.

Car starts and runs, idles, drives. Will not rev nicely past 4,500rpm. Driving, forget about it, sitting, you can ease into it (10% or less throttle), but then it just breaks up again around 5,500.

Video of issue - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1VPPrnn4uw

There is something very wrong with your ignition tables. Try importing the ignition tables from a stock calibration and see if that helps. Your timing is basically at about 30 degrees everywhere.

The car runs on E85 and loves the timing we've tuned it to.

Could you be more specific as to why you think the timing map is the issue?

What makes my ignition map make 450whp on the stock ignition system and not even run using your CPR?

Compare it to a basemap and you will see the HUGE difference.

Explain why it runs fine with this map on a stock dizzy... then maybe ill change my map. Any time anyone has problems with your stuff you are the least helpfull people.

I just looked at the map its locked in to 30* at .4 psi and falls from there explain to me why this is a problem I tune a lot of cars and the timung maps are all similar. There is nothing wrong with locking the timing at each break point its easy and fail safe

How exactly do you have everything wired?

By disconnecting the plug from the coil packs one at a time is there one cylinder that is not firing?

As far as the tuning goes, here's what my tuner said, "There is nothing wring with locking the timing at each break point, it's easy and fail safe."

I'll say it again, car made 450whp with a BEAUTIFUL curve on the 17th, installed the CPR and it won't barely run.

As for the wiring:

CPR was professionally installed, orange and white wires pinned directly to ECU plug, ground soldered to A23 about 1" from plug, power to A25 about 1" from plug. Coil and ignitor were removed from the distributor. Ground on t-stat is clean is corrosion free.

I'll add that the 4 black/white wires are pinned (with the included hardware) to the 2 pin plug in the engine bay, as is the blue wire. Not a single bell cap, butt connector, or 3way was used. Brand new NGK resistor spark plugs.

Took it to the dyno yesterday for shits and giggles, here's how bad it runs:

http://i.imgur.com/z7Jh2.jpg

I'd love to just rip it off and go back to my stock ignition system at this point, but since I had to permanently modify my distributor, pin out my ECU, and cut a huge hole in my firewall to get that 3 sizes too big plug in, I kinda can't go back.

I've seen this system work, so I know there's something we're missing here......

What do you mean you had to modify your distributor? The only modification you need to do is to change the 2 pins (power and tach signal) which you can easily depin and return to stock.

Can you post pictures of how you have everything connected, as it may shed some light on why you are having these problems?

What would you like pictures of? The solder joints? I'm more than happy to oblige, but before we just sweep this under the standard "customer installation error" can you maybe tell me what I should be looking for? That is, what would you like to see to clear this up?

I followed the included instructions (as horrible as they are) to a T, I even went above and beyond making sure to route the CPR wires away from the main harness in the engine bay.

You still have not told me what you have done to the distributor that is permanent.

I'm trying to help you here, but I do not have the car in front of me and part of me helping you is making sure everything is connected properly. Part of troubleshooting is ruling things out. This is what we are doing here.

You say you have seen this work before...I assume you mean on a different car. Can you try your CPR box in that other car?

I'm not one to half ass install things, so the three wires for the coil power and ignitor were removed and sealed up. I wasn't about to just have wires flopping around my engine bay, so my wiring harness from the distributor plug to inside has been permanently altered.

This kit has not been installed on anything else, it was new when it was installed on my car. I was referring to other tuners out there in the world, I know your system CAN work, it just doesn't on my vehicle. I'm have zero intention on removing this from my vehicle and subjecting someone else to these headaches.

I followed the installation directions to the letter and expected much better results. A loss of over 200whp and a complete lack of driveabilty is a major bummer to say the least.

I have to ask, why (besides cost), does the CPR kit use a smaller gauge wire then Honda used factory for all the ECU connections? It's clear that this is an interference issue and I fully expect to be blamed for these issues in some way shape or form.....

Here are the pictures of my install. http://imgur.com/a/J2xmB#0

Before you go and blame the 4G power wire running along side my main harness, let me say two things. We disconnected it from the battery and it made no difference, and the CPR system should NOT be more sensitive then the factory ignition system. If anything, for the price and the quality we have all come to expect from Hondata it should be MORE robust then what Honda put in these cars from the factory.

What are the T-Taps connected to?

It also looks almost like the wht/brn wire is connected to A14 instead of A16, can you check this?

What ECU are you using?

. I wish I never bought this. I'm having the same issues w my turbo ek. My car is a all out top of the line build. The car ran 500% 2 minutes to install. I do this for a living. All and every connection is soldered. Every ecu pin is solid. Ive ran 2 diffrant oem coil packs @ $300 each time. Ive switched 3 brand new sets of bkr8eix plugs at various gaps. The thermo ground has been wire brushed. The car starts, but at any point after 5300rpm breaks up and as soon as the car heats up it starts idling like shit. I've spoke to my tuner Jeff Evans, I've spoke to locash racing. I've used up all my ideas. I've called you guys at hondata....to wich you try to pass the buck off on that I have a $1300 millspec harness. Poor excuse. At this point I want my money back. Where can I send this for a refund? This nightmares already cost $1200. I'm over it. Please contact me @ twbarona@aol.com

Each CPR is tested and there are hundreds in use which are all working correctly. If you want us to test your ECU and CPR in one of vehicles we're happy to do that. We'll be in touch.