Hondata

Ok, so i went out street tuning the other night in my:

1995 Accord
H22a1 swap
Mugen Header
Skunk2 Intake/throttle body
p72 ecu w/s300

And by street tuning, I mean that I was only trying out different recommended basemaps and that I was only adjusting the fuel (as recommended by the "fuel change" percentages).

I tested the basemap that was loaded on my ecu when I bought it, which was running a h22a4. I used 50% throttle through 1st and 2nd gear when I noticed sounding strange so I pulled over.

Anyways, it now has a nasty rattle to it. The rattle is almost silent at idle but noisier when revved/driven, and it also coincides with the rpm level....faster rpms = faster rattle from the Head.

The rattle is still there, even after I have uploaded h22 tunes that I have used as daily tunes. :(




So....on to my question:

My first search says to adjust the valve lash, but two friends of mine swear that the rattle is coming from the bottom end. Is it possible for something to be loose and rattling at the bottom of the lifter/rod/whatever?

What all can be rattling inside my head? And for each, can it be "adjusted" (like the "lash adjustments" are designed to just tighten up what needed to be tightened??)

I have never rebuilt a motor, and my friends are more skilled with domestics. I have been searching for how to tighten lifters or rods, but all i get is "lash adjustments" or conversations about how hondas are different.

My last h22 threw a whatever out of the front of the block, but I dont have the slightest clue what caused it because I was just cruising at 75 on the interstate going to work.



This is my daily driver, and it is now parked until I can safely drive it again. Please tell me the possible causes of engine rattle, how to fix it (I will google search if you tell me the name of the procedure...example "valve lash adjustment"), and hopefully how to tell which one is the cause of the rattle.

Thanks,

--TJ

Also, at operating temperature, I have always seemed to suffer from low idle rpms. I can set idle to 800 or 1000, but it always tries to idle around 600. At that low of an idle, the oil light is usually flickering. I assume this is because the low idle is causing the oil pump to run slower???

Could this be related to whatever bad thing I just did to it?

--TJ

tb144050 wrote:Also, at operating temperature, I have always seemed to suffer from low idle rpms. I can set idle to 800 or 1000, but it always tries to idle around 600. At that low of an idle, the oil light is usually flickering. I assume this is because the low idle is causing the oil pump to run slower???

Could this be related to whatever bad thing I just did to it?

--TJ

sounds like you spun a bearing.

when was the last time you did an oil change or even checked your dipstick?

does your oil light only flicker at idle? this could mean you need an oil pump

it could be that the valve need to be adjusted but from the symptoms stated that sound like a damaged piston rod bearing

i fresh oil and filter when I installed this used motor about 300 miles ago. It sat up for months before I got it.

The oil light only flickers at operating temperature AND when the idle drops down to about 500-600. I check the oil routinely bc the previous owner told me up front that it burns a little oil. However, it hasn't seemed to be using any...only been about 300 miles of short-trip daily driving under 60mph though.

How can I tell if it has a spun bearing?