s300 base timing issues
Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:00 am
Here's my dilemna.
I have a 98 Acura EL D16y8.
I've run z6's before without issue, this is my first y8.
Trying to set the base timing to 12 degrees as per Honda spec. If I activate base timing mode to 12 degrees, the distributor does not have enough play in it to get it to the 12 degree mark on crank pulley. It's consistantly approximately 9 degrees off. If I were to put 21.75 degrees in the base timing window...bam, pulley mark lines up no issues. I have read up as much as I can on this issue, were individuals are stating that 21 degrees is the 12 on the crank. In saying this however, does that mean that the ENTIRE map would have to be advanced 9 degrees to compensate? or am I just going a little crazy.
Just to add information, motor is completely stock, mechanical timing checked twice (all good), even checked TDC mark to actual piston at TDC, that's good too.
I would not plan on running anymore than 15 or so degrees at WOT at 10 PSI on a 2860rs, so would this mean 24 degrees on the timing map? I don't feel like picking up connecting rod pieces on the road, and unfortunately, no dynos available anywhere near me, nor tuners I could trust.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 98 Acura EL D16y8.
I've run z6's before without issue, this is my first y8.
Trying to set the base timing to 12 degrees as per Honda spec. If I activate base timing mode to 12 degrees, the distributor does not have enough play in it to get it to the 12 degree mark on crank pulley. It's consistantly approximately 9 degrees off. If I were to put 21.75 degrees in the base timing window...bam, pulley mark lines up no issues. I have read up as much as I can on this issue, were individuals are stating that 21 degrees is the 12 on the crank. In saying this however, does that mean that the ENTIRE map would have to be advanced 9 degrees to compensate? or am I just going a little crazy.
Just to add information, motor is completely stock, mechanical timing checked twice (all good), even checked TDC mark to actual piston at TDC, that's good too.
I would not plan on running anymore than 15 or so degrees at WOT at 10 PSI on a 2860rs, so would this mean 24 degrees on the timing map? I don't feel like picking up connecting rod pieces on the road, and unfortunately, no dynos available anywhere near me, nor tuners I could trust.
Thanks in advance.