Hondata

I am not able to get the water pump to turn on using the relay and signal from A10 for the Devils Own water injection kit. Any words of wisdom?

Pin 85 is grounded
Pin 30 goes to the battery with an inline fuse
Pin 86 is from A10 on the ECU
Pin 87 goes to the pump's +

SManager has the input set to Always On, Water/Alcohol Injection, Output on A10, and the conditions have been set. I have also tried inverting the output as can be seen in the datalog. Nothing seems to work. I have also tried using A20 as the output.

The engine is not running, so it is not meeting the parameters. Try again with the engine running.

Can I set the minimum load to something that would allow this to run with the motor off, or is the motor requred to be running for these outputs to work?

It must be running for it to read all the sensors properly

With the car running, I am still unable to get the pump to activate using pin A10. No combination of settings will allow it to work. I measured the voltage out of A10 at the relay and its close to 3-4v. Is that right?

Next, I tried using A20. Using the green wire, which I believe to be A20, does nothing with the motor running and pin 85 off the relay grounded. Now, if I use the black wire off the evap purge plug, the water pump kicks on, regardless of the Hondata settings. The motor doesn't have to be on either... If the ignition is on, the pump is running. I'm wondering if this worked because I was using a ground wire and with pin 85 from the relay grounded, it was a closed circuit and thus activated the pump.

So, I can't figure out the right combination to get things to work. How much voltage should be coming out of these outputs from the ecu? Is it possible that the voltage is too low to trigger the relay?

no datalogs or calibrations showing this

Spunkster wrote:no datalogs or calibrations showing this

The calibration file didn't change from the one in my first post. The only difference is the output settings. I didn't record datalogs but will do that tomorrow night. I think the most noteworthy thing won't be shown in the datalog:

1) A10 has a constant 3-4 volts of output, no matter what the output is set to (including disabled) in SManager. Disabling both the input and the nitrous/output control had no effect on the voltage, even though SManager shows it turning on and off.
2) A20 does not have juice coming out of it, no matter what the output settings are. The datalog shows the output being on and off respectively, but the voltage doesn't change according to my multimeter. I am using a Hondata ECU with OBD2-a plug on it. I pulled the ECU and verified that Q31 is present.

So, either the ECU is bad or SManager isn't talking with the ECU appropriately. I find it odd that neither of the two outputs are working, so I will take some datalogs tomorrow evening and post up.

http://www.hondata.com/techadapters.html

http://www.hondata.com/help/smanager/a1 ... ghtsub=a10

What other components are necessary for A20 to function? Q31 is present on the ECU but I wasn't getting any power on pin A20.

Can A10 function on a board that doesn't have circuitry for R154?

Here is the situation:
1) Hondata OBD2-A "P28" ECU #1 - 1720 board I suspect to be a converted P05 or P06
Q33 - Can be added but not present
Q16 - Present on ECU
R154 - I don't see this spot present on the board

2) Hondata OBD2-A "P28" ECU #2 - 11F0 board I suspect to be a converted P05 or P06
Same situation as above ecu

3) P06 ECU - 1980 board
Q33 - Can be added but not present
Q16 - Can be added but not present
R154 - Present on ECU

Q31 is present on each ECU. ECU #1 is chipped for the S300 and is my preferred ECU. The other ECUs are usable, but I will need to desolder the sockets and chip for the S300. Lastly, the P06 will need a VTEC conversion.

Boards in the order listed above:

A20 does not supply power, it grounds the output.

Spunkster wrote:A20 does not supply power, it grounds the output.

OK, here is a datalog from tonight. Pin A20 has continuity from the plug all the way to the pin on the ECU. Furthermore, there is continuity to the middle leg on Q31. With engine running, the circuit never closes, regardless of whether the output is inverted or not, or what the parameters are set at.

What am I missing here?

You need to draw a diagram of exactly how yuou have this wired and post it.

Spunkster wrote:You need to draw a diagram of exactly how yuou have this wired and post it.

This will be something that I do over the winter time. I needed to get this to work before my next track event, so I wired up the pressure switch that came with the kit and it functions correctly. I will try the ECU control at a later time.

Move relay pin 85 to switched 12V. As Spunkter said, the computer will provide the ground to activate the relay

hondatechpr wrote:Move relay pin 85 to switched 12V. As Spunkter said, the computer will provide the ground to activate the relay

The Hondata "P28" doesn't have the required components; so no, this won't work. Kind of sucks to pay premium dollar for a P28 ecu, only for it to be a converted P05/P06 and not have all the components you thought it would.... I wish they would offer to trade this in for a real OBDII-a pinned ECU that has these required components...