Hondata

A couple of years ago I had my ECU sent to Honata for S300 installation.

A short time after this I saw the tech article on the front page suggesting this is done.

How do I know if my ECU had the C14 cap replaced?

If the cap hasn't been replaced and the cap leaks all over the board, how do I repair the board if it's damaged?

It does look like there's been leakage from the cap at C14, and whenever I lightly touch the D & B plugs on the ECU the car wants to stall. But yet when I wiggle the wires individually the engine keeps running. So I'm assuming at some point the cap has leaked.

I've included pictures of around C14 on the PCB as well as the markings on the sie of C14.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

It does not look like it has been replaced. I would recommend replacing it before it catastrophically fails. If you cannot do this yourself, your nearest Hondata dealer should be able to help you with it.

Spunkster wrote:It does not look like it has been replaced. I would recommend replacing it before it catastrophically fails. If you cannot do this yourself, your nearest Hondata dealer should be able to help you with it.

Thanks Spunkster, it looks like it has leaked, can you suggest anything to clean it up with?

Assume I just replace it like-for like - 220uF 35V?

Can you shed any light on what happens if it does/did catastrophically fails? And what avenues I have to repair anything permanantly damaged?

Ebola_One wrote:

Spunkster wrote:It does not look like it has been replaced. I would recommend replacing it before it catastrophically fails. If you cannot do this yourself, your nearest Hondata dealer should be able to help you with it.

Thanks Spunkster, it looks like it has leaked, can you suggest anything to clean it up with?

Assume I just replace it like-for like - 220uF 35V?

Can you shed any light on what happens if it does/did catastrophically fails? And what avenues I have to repair anything permanantly damaged?

put the exact same value of electrolytic capacitor back into it, it matters with diff values, and if you dont and it blows theres a 50/50 chance of it being repairable, just do it and save your self money down the road, takes 20min from tearing the ecu down to fixing and being done.

Catastrophic failures have been know to burn a hole right through the circuit board, and take out some traces and solder pads on the board in the process.

I have repaired them, even when this happens, but best to catch it right from the start.