Hondata

I'm trying to break in my engine but am having problems with it running hot. I think I have all the air out of the system. I've bled it many times and the last few times I'm getting no air bubbles.

At cruise the temps will slowly rise even with the fan set to come on at 180F and stay running up to 150 mph. By hot I mean 210F-220F at which point I turn on the heat which will bring the temp down. It does get hot at idle, but takes a while (half hour). If I turn on the AC the temps jump up fast.

Setup is:
Benson sleeved block/crank
CP pistons and rings (9.25:1 compression)
Pauter rods
ARP Head Studs
SuperTech SS Valves
SuperTech dual springs/Ti retainers
Skunk2 Tuner stage 1 cams
Precision SC3427e
Neukin Ramhorn manifold (Full Race copy)
Tial 38mm wastegate
3 inch DP with closed loop dump
3 inch Cat/3 inch Thermal Turbo Exhaust
Skunk2 Pro Series Intake Manifold w/Hondata heatshield
Stock TB bored to 64mm
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors (correct dead time for 60 psi)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Stock fuel pressure regulator (60 psi with vac line disconnected and line plugged)
PLX M300 Wideband
Koyo half radiator
Stock ignition with NGK wires with new BKR7ES-11 plugs with 0.030 gap. I checked the plugs and did see a little glazing but no detonation.
Oil cooler mounted in front of the AC condenser (not on the rad side)
12 inch fan pushing on the condenser/rad side and a 10 inch fan pulling on the oil cooler/condenser side(fans are setup correctly)
Intercooler is a 3 inch core, 30 inches end tank to end tank and 8 inches tall.

Thermostat is a new Honda one (installed correctly) and the cap is new, though it is a Stant. The cap does appear to be working properly.

I'm wondering if there could be something up with the calibration I'm using. It's the stock GSR that comes with the S300. I tweaked the some of the following parameters: Fuel trim, closed loop, and added a boost cut at 1psi. For now I just want to get the engine broken in, so I'm not running it hard.

I know just enough about tuning to be dangerous, which worries me. For instance, to get it to idle half decently when cold I have the cold start adjustment at -99%. That can't be right. It does start right up though, cold or hot. I also have to have the overall fuel trim at 50% for it to idle/run smooth. Seems high, but this is all new to me. I was just wondering if I could get some more experienced eyes to look at the calibration and see if there is something that would be causing it to run hot or if it is something physically wrong with my setup that I need to correct.

Thanks.

That radiator is probably not large enough for a street driven sleeved turbo setup. You are also running too rich as you can see by the short term trim of -20%

Spunkster wrote:That radiator is probably not large enough for a street driven sleeved turbo setup. You are also running too rich as you can see by the short term trim of -20%

I appreciate the input.

I see a lot of guys running this setup not having issues. Even though it is a half size it actually holds the same or even a little more than the stock integra rad. I know it being thicker will cut down on the efficiency somewhat. The guy who put the block together said the aluminum civic half rad would be ok for the setup. I guess I can always try putting the stock full length rad back in and see what happens.

Oh yeah, the timing was set properly. I used the base timing in Hondata and then checked the pulley, it was 16 degrees.

I see what you mean about the S trim. -20 is what I have the limit set at, I wonder what it would be without that. I'll try backing off the fuel trim and see what happens.

Thanks!

Just got back from another drive after making changes to the fuel trim. My S trim is now around -3 L trim at -1. Right now I have 10% overall fuel trim and 0% cold start. Still started up quick but idle is much rougher.

Before I went out I also added some thick foam, used to seal off window AC units, around the side of the rad and across the top of the condenser that the rad doesn't extend to. Still got hot, but not as hot and not as fast. I think air as going around and not through the rad. I'm going to take the nose up and fabricate some block off plates from Al to help direct the air to the rad.

Thanks

1158 wrote:Just got back from another drive after making changes to the fuel trim. My S trim is now around -3 L trim at -1. Right now I have 10% overall fuel trim and 0% cold start. Still started up quick but idle is much rougher.

Before I went out I also added some thick foam, used to seal off window AC units, around the side of the rad and across the top of the condenser that the rad doesn't extend to. Still got hot, but not as hot and not as fast. I think air as going around and not through the rad. I'm going to take the nose up and fabricate some block off plates from Al to help direct the air to the rad.

Thanks

ive had this issue for about 4 years i got so use to knowing how to keep the temp down while driving so it didnt bother me. i thought it was the half size radiator, not having enough air coming throw the front vent etc.
after 50k miles and harsh beatings also.. i threw a rod and put 2 wholes in the block.. so i built a brand new bigger bottom end and prepared for the old song again with the tempeture issue.. but to my surprise.. the motor is running perfectly fine. no temp rising or getting HOT. ride around with a/c on and etc. i stay in texas.. so you know how it is.
but yea.. i salvaged everything from my previous build.. and only replaced the block. and now its running like a champ.
hope this helps.. soo yea.. u prolly have a bad block..

Are you sure this datalog and calibration go together? You have the FANC override activated at 180 degrees with a max VSS of 120 MPH but at around frame 7:49 your ECT is 199 and VSS is 63 MPH but FANC is OFF. The FANC finally comes on when you dip to 30MPH at 9:31.

Also, how was your block sleeved? If the normally open deck is now closed by the Darton MIDs or you're using a block guard, your flow might be restricted.