Hondata

So I just recieved my K-Pro, plugged it in with the base tune - and before anyone asks; i didnt try to drive it on the base tune lol.
When I started the car (from cold) the car sat at around 2900rpm - which wasnt that far off from my original ECU. However - as the car warmed up, the idle didnt drop at all.

So then I loaded up one of my friend's tunes from his DC5 ITR which had only done intake + catback.

Checked the idle setting in the K-Pro, and it was set to 850rpm.
After some further examination, I found out that my TPS reading was way out of whack -WOT was normal, but closed throttle it was sitting at 70% throttle "on".
So using Kmanager I calibrated it as far as the the "minimum reading scale" would let me - and closed throttle still read 50%. Therefore I adjusted the TPS sensor as far back as it would go (was originally reading 0.35V); which brought it down to 12-13% - however this is with the minimum scale on kmanager set to 40%.

Started the car again.... no difference! Idle still sat at approx 2900rpm.
The weird thing is that I never had this issue before I swapped out my ECU; so my mate suspects its something mechanical from sitting around for 2 months.

Anyone?

You will need to clean the idle valve. Unscrew it from the throttle body, then remove the electrical part from the mechanical part (uses special screws). Clean the rotate valve.

There is some other problem with your TPS. Return the KManager settings to stock and check it again - if there are more than about 5% different from 0% and 100%, then you need to look at the TPS.

So a mechanic friend took my throttle body and cleaned the ICAV and rotate valve, and refitted it today. He thinks the ICAV may have been stuck; however we refitted it today and adjusted the TPS until it read 20% open throttle but it stilled idled at 2900-3000rpm even when warm..

I'm stumped :(

Could it be the ECU by any chance? Wrong ecu; etc?

Okay, it's not complicated. If the car's idling high, it's getting air from somewhere - end of story. It's either a vacuum leak, the throttle plate's open, or the idle valve's partly open. You have to track down each of these as possibles... or worse, a combination.

If you have a friend with a DC5 ITR, plug your ECU in his car and see if TPS reads correctly.

If not, it definitely sounds like your TPS is messed up or all the items kb85 mentioned. If you are only getting .35volts with the throttle plate closed on your TPS, the ECU should not see that as 50% TPS.