Im trying to find out why A/F ratio in my display for smanager wont read from my wideband(AEMM eugo) Im sure I have it hooked up correctly to the D10 eld pinout and both r136 and 138 have been cut. can some one look at my setting and tell me if you see something that doesnt look right.
My A/F guage is wired threw the pinned switch in the fusebox
Ive been searching for a couple of days not and the only thing Ive come up with that my voltage offset seems to be a high. Almost 5X as higher than it should be.
the Car is a 93 integra running a P28 ECU
engine mods are LS motor W. CAI/SK2 IM/st2 cams/header/stock cat/cat back exaust
My Calibration
A/F ratio doesn't change in the display or datologs
A/F ratio doesn't change in the display or datologs
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I stand corrected, I hooked up the wiring along time ago in preperation for the s300 long in advance of actually buying the system.
I did not have the wire cut and was using a wire tap to get a signal from the wire.
So ive corrected that, the wire has been cut and soldered dirrectly to the output wire from the guage.
From this I was able to lower my off set voltage and instead of it reading in the range of high 13's, now it read low 14's, but as you can tell from the graph, that just like before it still wont varry by more then a couple decimal places, where as the guage will varry by whole numbers
my new calibration and graphing
I did not have the wire cut and was using a wire tap to get a signal from the wire.
So ive corrected that, the wire has been cut and soldered dirrectly to the output wire from the guage.
From this I was able to lower my off set voltage and instead of it reading in the range of high 13's, now it read low 14's, but as you can tell from the graph, that just like before it still wont varry by more then a couple decimal places, where as the guage will varry by whole numbers
my new calibration and graphing
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It does not sound like you have it wired correctly.
Double check your installation or have someone else look at it as you may be missing something.
http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html
Double check your installation or have someone else look at it as you may be missing something.
http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html
thanks man, but sad to say. wiring is not the problem :(
I ohmed out the white wire at the guage pin and the ecu pin and I got an audible beeb and a resistance of .003 ohms
Spunkster, you dont see anything in my parameters that seems out of place? I went by everything you posted in that link including diabling the oxygen heater
my new tables and datalog after tonights tunning runs
I ohmed out the white wire at the guage pin and the ecu pin and I got an audible beeb and a resistance of .003 ohms
Spunkster, you dont see anything in my parameters that seems out of place? I went by everything you posted in that link including diabling the oxygen heater
my new tables and datalog after tonights tunning runs
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First thing that jumped out at me is your MAP sensor.....
but then i see your in Colorado,was that run done in Colorado?
If yes,that must bite balls tryin to run an NA car up there in the mountains with that little air pressure,but i obviously know little of Colorado & its elevations....
If no & it was done closer to sea level,then u have a problem on the MAP sensor &/or its wiring,which also could tie into how uve wired the AEM.
That is a lot of offset on the sensor u are running & it never shows more than 1V on the ELD.
Im not familiar with the AEM also,so does it have 2 outputs,ie a narrowband & a wideband output?
Are the outputs adjustable at all,ie rescalable thru the AEM control unit?
Its either something along those lines,or u have still not got the wiring config right.
Have u got the wideband output of the AEM going to the ELD input & if it is rescalable have u got it set to something like 0-5V,10-20AF or similar.
Seeing as though u have the closed loop tab settings at 0-5V,10-18AF,says it is either rescalable or your values are wrong,but again im not familiar with what the AEM spits out as stock values when u first buy it.
My guess is,wiring is wrong,try to describe the wiring config in a little more detail,including how u have run the grounds & whether u are still running stock O2 sensor as well,etc.
Your parameters are not showing the O2 heater disabled at all also,disable it if u are not still running the stock O2 sensor in a seperate bung.
but then i see your in Colorado,was that run done in Colorado?
If yes,that must bite balls tryin to run an NA car up there in the mountains with that little air pressure,but i obviously know little of Colorado & its elevations....
If no & it was done closer to sea level,then u have a problem on the MAP sensor &/or its wiring,which also could tie into how uve wired the AEM.
That is a lot of offset on the sensor u are running & it never shows more than 1V on the ELD.
Im not familiar with the AEM also,so does it have 2 outputs,ie a narrowband & a wideband output?
Are the outputs adjustable at all,ie rescalable thru the AEM control unit?
Its either something along those lines,or u have still not got the wiring config right.
Have u got the wideband output of the AEM going to the ELD input & if it is rescalable have u got it set to something like 0-5V,10-20AF or similar.
Seeing as though u have the closed loop tab settings at 0-5V,10-18AF,says it is either rescalable or your values are wrong,but again im not familiar with what the AEM spits out as stock values when u first buy it.
My guess is,wiring is wrong,try to describe the wiring config in a little more detail,including how u have run the grounds & whether u are still running stock O2 sensor as well,etc.
Your parameters are not showing the O2 heater disabled at all also,disable it if u are not still running the stock O2 sensor in a seperate bung.
Thanks Fly_n
yes I am ruffly at about 5300 ft, just over a mile high and the tunning is being done here in colorado
It might bite balls but ive never realy driven a sports car at sea level, so im blind to performance losses:D
I have noticed in the sensors box that the eld never got above 1 volt and yes it does have a couple of out puts which ill get to in just a second.
im sure the wireing is correct, ive gone over it a couple of times now to ensure it is. as far as the out puts being adjustable, they are but not in the fashion that your refering to.(refer to the link page 10, I would try to explain it, but i would just make all screwy)
as far as the closed loop tap goes, I thought I had changed that back to 10=20, but apperently didnt save it. me and my buddy changed it due to the scale on top of page 10 (see link) only goes to 4.5V but after folling the trend of numbers came to relize that they where right the way they where before. that has now been corrected and save.
as far as the O2 senors, I am using both the stock and WB the stock O2 is running the narrow band for the ECU
Heres the link ive been refering to, its a PDF of the installion procedure for the AEM gauge
http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf
I went to check and make sure the adjustment screw was set a P0 and it was set at P1. after this change I notice that now the eld read above 1 volt and I was also able to lower the voltage off set
the guage its self is wired into the fusebox for 12v switched power and is grounded to chassis at the pass side knee bolster along with my O/P and F/P guage
The car has a wire tuck, but I did it in a fashion where no OEM wires beside for the five wires that control the windshield wiper motor were cut and resoldered. Ive been running this for almost a year now on the stock ecu including an open track day at High Plains Raceway with no problems at all
Im going to drive the car to work tomarrow and get a datalog of the trip there to see if these changes made any difference
new parameters and datalog after changes
yes I am ruffly at about 5300 ft, just over a mile high and the tunning is being done here in colorado
It might bite balls but ive never realy driven a sports car at sea level, so im blind to performance losses:D
I have noticed in the sensors box that the eld never got above 1 volt and yes it does have a couple of out puts which ill get to in just a second.
im sure the wireing is correct, ive gone over it a couple of times now to ensure it is. as far as the out puts being adjustable, they are but not in the fashion that your refering to.(refer to the link page 10, I would try to explain it, but i would just make all screwy)
as far as the closed loop tap goes, I thought I had changed that back to 10=20, but apperently didnt save it. me and my buddy changed it due to the scale on top of page 10 (see link) only goes to 4.5V but after folling the trend of numbers came to relize that they where right the way they where before. that has now been corrected and save.
as far as the O2 senors, I am using both the stock and WB the stock O2 is running the narrow band for the ECU
Heres the link ive been refering to, its a PDF of the installion procedure for the AEM gauge
http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf
I went to check and make sure the adjustment screw was set a P0 and it was set at P1. after this change I notice that now the eld read above 1 volt and I was also able to lower the voltage off set
the guage its self is wired into the fusebox for 12v switched power and is grounded to chassis at the pass side knee bolster along with my O/P and F/P guage
The car has a wire tuck, but I did it in a fashion where no OEM wires beside for the five wires that control the windshield wiper motor were cut and resoldered. Ive been running this for almost a year now on the stock ecu including an open track day at High Plains Raceway with no problems at all
Im going to drive the car to work tomarrow and get a datalog of the trip there to see if these changes made any difference
new parameters and datalog after changes
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Yes,i was refering to something like the LC-1 sensor that is adjustable thru software.
Ok,since u have stock O2 running narrowband side,leave the heater enabled,u have it disabled in that last cal file.
Looks like from that AEM document that either P0 or P1 will still spit out 0-5V to the ECU,the only difference being that on P1 the AEM gauge will display lambda values,so could be a mismatch there if u are trying to match the ECU to gauge if ECU is displaying AF,but im sure u would have noticed this large discrepancy.
I would probably make sure that u are set to P0(or P1 if lambda selected on both gauge & ECU) & that the dial is not set to P3,P4,P5,etc.
I have not seen the dial selector in the AEM,but i realise how it is easy to think the dial is pointing one way when it is indeed pointing 180deg the other way on some equipment,if u know what im getting at.
The AEM appears to only have 1 analog output(the other being a serial output) so its hard to see u getting the wire selection wrong,however,on last datalog your O2 input(stock narrowband sensor) is reading up to 3+Volts in some areas,so what i would check is do u have the stock O2 wired to D14 & the AEM wired to D10(ELD) as it should be & they are not reversed,even double check u are reading the pin numbers to the ECU right.
Also make sure that both inputs only have 1 wire in each(D14 & D10) & they are not Tee'd off to any other device,ie they are dedicated to the stock O2 & AEM output respectively.
To set your offset u appear to be able to just decouple the O2 sensor from the AEM gauge unit & then the AEM will spit out a constant 2.53V to the ECU,u can then try to match that to your datalog values by then adjusting the offset value in closed loop tab.
It also appears like 0-5V,10-20AF will be the right setting,even though one table shows 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF,but that would work out to a linear value similar to the former value anyway by a rough guess,but if u want to be sure of accuracy just use the 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF set in Smanager.
Ok,since u have stock O2 running narrowband side,leave the heater enabled,u have it disabled in that last cal file.
Looks like from that AEM document that either P0 or P1 will still spit out 0-5V to the ECU,the only difference being that on P1 the AEM gauge will display lambda values,so could be a mismatch there if u are trying to match the ECU to gauge if ECU is displaying AF,but im sure u would have noticed this large discrepancy.
I would probably make sure that u are set to P0(or P1 if lambda selected on both gauge & ECU) & that the dial is not set to P3,P4,P5,etc.
I have not seen the dial selector in the AEM,but i realise how it is easy to think the dial is pointing one way when it is indeed pointing 180deg the other way on some equipment,if u know what im getting at.
The AEM appears to only have 1 analog output(the other being a serial output) so its hard to see u getting the wire selection wrong,however,on last datalog your O2 input(stock narrowband sensor) is reading up to 3+Volts in some areas,so what i would check is do u have the stock O2 wired to D14 & the AEM wired to D10(ELD) as it should be & they are not reversed,even double check u are reading the pin numbers to the ECU right.
Also make sure that both inputs only have 1 wire in each(D14 & D10) & they are not Tee'd off to any other device,ie they are dedicated to the stock O2 & AEM output respectively.
To set your offset u appear to be able to just decouple the O2 sensor from the AEM gauge unit & then the AEM will spit out a constant 2.53V to the ECU,u can then try to match that to your datalog values by then adjusting the offset value in closed loop tab.
It also appears like 0-5V,10-20AF will be the right setting,even though one table shows 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF,but that would work out to a linear value similar to the former value anyway by a rough guess,but if u want to be sure of accuracy just use the 0-4.25V,10-18.5AF set in Smanager.