Hondata

Ive been fighting getting my car to idle.

Here is what I have.
B20Vtec
Crower 402s
Skunk Manifold
12.7:1 CR .20 over
Head ported and polished by Endyne
Type R Valvetrain
255cc Accels
Walbro FP
Fuel Pressure 52 PSI

Here is what I have tried.
stock P28 Map, Fuel trim adjusted, TPS calibrated.
Car starts Idles real high slowlys drops to 400 RPM chokes and kicks back up to 1500, 1000, 1500, 1000, 2500 then drops and stalls.
I adjusted all the fuel down around the idle as I think partially my problem is the Fuel pressure and its running real rich. I was able to get it to idle at 850-920 its real rough idle... cams
Every once in a while it jumps up to 2000 and almost stalls and fights its way back into idle. Its very sluggish to response tap the gas and its delayed. There is a 7 pound Flywheel in the Tranny it should zip up fast.

Tests:
Disconnected IACV no change. adjusted Idle screw and took it out. No change.
triple checked every vacuum line and cap. cleaned out IACV and throttle body.
Strangely enough when I pull the vacuum line from the MAP it runs better even if I plug the hose and let the Map not read any vacuum.

Another odd occurrence I loaded the LS/Vtec with ITB and 440 injectors MAP from the software.
Changed the alpha-n TPS to MAP dependent adjusted TPS signal and fired it up.
OMG! Runs like a Monster not a single problem revved right up to 9000 with a tap of the pedal! BUT that got me into problems before its so rich the spark plugs literally foul out in 30 minutes.
Its probably because the values for the MAP are so far off because the fuel based off TPS. So I suspected a bad MAP

Installed a 2nd MAP sensor same problem. I was just checking with my Snapon Vantage 2400 and the TPS and MAP connector colors for the wiring do not match but it may not be a Civic Harness maybe a Integra or JDM Civic as I got the car second hand. Ill be running a continuity check on both the TPS and MAP to make sure I have those wired right. Is possible the TPS and Map are switched but the ECU did not throw a code.
In addition code 21 just came up after the car has been fine for 2 months now. I just disabled the spool. Ill worry about it after the motor runs.

AS for a datalog do you want the s3d file and the calibration. I just want to get it drivable so I can nurse it to the dyno without damaging it but is 70 miles away

It is possible you have the plugs swapped for the MAP and TPS, try swapping them.

Tried that datalogging shows the tps value running correctly. I'm thinking ignition timing with the crower 402 cams. The car was tuned previosly but the accel on it died so the cams are already adjusted. Going to pull the ignition timing tables from the lsvtec with ITBs and apply them to a TypeR fuel map and get back to you all. Like I said the lsvtec with itbs runs like a champ but sucks down a 1/4 tank of gas in an hour which is not great for my o2 sensor or the cat running cherry red.

Edit that did not work I am going to perform the standard tests on the MAP to verify it is sending the right signals. I have several datalogs if interested
Wish that B17 with head work and stage2 crower cams untuned was still available for DL off the forums it would make a great start point for me.

Check post above for more attachments

wow,making me dizzy looking at those datalogs,definite chaos there....

what do u see as your idle(stationary max temp under idle tab?
do u see 65degC(?degF) as top value or has my end just got corrupted like it has done in the past with an attempt to change units to degC?

if u also see 65degC,then fix that for a start,seems some of my "new calibrations" such as this P28 cal(&jdmP72) have got the same dud readings,might be the table value bug has moved again from whatever table it was fixed on previously,like TPS MAP values.....

what was connected(iacv/map/etc) in "idle&die" datalog?

try disable closed loop,seems u have no O2 sensor readings in that datalog for some reason,might be wiring problem on that circuit to do with idle valve or something...

that reminds me of feature request i'd like to ask....

Idle and Die is Closed loop with everything connected the ECU is searching for a point with the O2 reading. Truthfully I am trying to expand my knowledge of the Honda ECU. If I disable closed loop of course the idle smooths out but my main issue is I can pull the idle air screw completely out and there is no change in idle.

Either way I believe the LSVtec with ITB will be my best map once my WBo2 arrives as it runs like it should only extremely rich.

Ive been playing with Hondas since early 94 when I swapped the z6 into a CRX then went to B series. Wiring is good I have tested all the sensors the only one that seems a bit out of range was the IACV because as the ohm reading was a but low but it never reached the proper mbar reading at idle because the idle was to high. throwing the reading off.