Hondata

Trying to decide on a WBO2, Don't forget my Qs at the bottom of the post as I tend to write autobiographies.

I like the PLX SM-AFR product for the durability and well built product but the Price is a bit higher. Yet it has 2 outputs so 1 WBO2 can supply the s300 with a narrow and wide band signal. Less Wiring less hassle.


The AEM UEGO is nice because the Price with gauge, it looks good but really not needed, and only 1 Output which means I would run 2 O2 sensors, One for Lean protection and data logging one for the default.


Innovate LC-1 Priced comparable to the PLX a bit less around $15. Good points small compact inline with the O2 sensor. Personal feeling, I don't like my electronics in the engine bay.


Now for questions.

If I run a Single WBO2 can I still run the heating element to my P28 or should it just be disabled for the error of not running it there? This is PLXs fix:
Install the 20 Ohm, 10 Watt load resistor to prevent the engine check error code. This allows your ECU to "think" that your stock narrowband sensor is still being heated. This resistor can be obtained from your local radio shack or electronics store. If 20 Ohms is not available, two 10 Ohm, 10 Watt resistors connected in series (not parallel) will also work.

Is it safe to run the Analog out signals in series to the ECU then to a gauge if I end up buying a WB Gauge or use one I have in the garage collecting dust.

Lastly this is for Hondata. Will you ever sell the high quality embossed aluminum lid for OBD1 ECUs I have not found it for sale on the site only with the Hondata Prepared ECUs. Mine is all rusty and nasty.

During all this research I found out some other information if you need to replace one of these $100 Wideband O2s try this first. I have found them as cheap as $38 online.
Summary of Bosch Wideband sensors

The full part numbers for these sensors
* 06 066 -- Bosch # 0 258 006 066, LSU 4.0, GM # 24450850.
* 07 057 -- Bosch # 0 258 007 057, LSU 4.2, Audi/VW # 021-906-262-B.
* 07 200 -- Bosch # 0 258 007 200, LSU 4.2 upgrade of 7057 sensor.
* 17 025 - Bosch # 0 258 017 025, LSU 4.9 for accurate lean burn readings.

I dont know about you but last time i looked i could get a AEM for $250. i bought my PLX SMF DM5 combo for $250. so how is the plx more expensive then the AEM and Innovative?

eBay
AEM with gauge $185
Innovate with Gauge $195
PLX with Gauge $238
Innovate no Gauge $148
PLX no Gauge $165
AEM no Gauge N/A

OSracer wrote:eBay
AEM with gauge $185
Innovate with Gauge $195
PLX with Gauge $238
Innovate no Gauge $148
PLX no Gauge $165
AEM no Gauge N/A

Wow prices have dropped. I have 2 plx's now my fav by far. had a AEM long time ago junk gauge short out all the time. never delt with Innovative.

PLX by far is the best one I have used. AEM has only one output and i've seen many people have problems with getting them to read correctly. Innovate we have seen problems where they loose their programmeing randomly and have to be reprogrammed to read correctly. I've never had a problem with any PLX and I have 3 of them in 3 different cars.

You do not have to run the resistor for the heater with the s300 as you can just disable the heater in the software.

Excellent PLX it is. there product seems like its built well just looking at it and I like the Multi Gauges although a bit pricey too much for show.

Any thought on the old M250? I have access to one which still functions with dual outputs.

I also love my PLX.
The guage is nice, wiring isn't very hard to do, provides WB and NB output, supports daisy chaining for multiple sensors/guages (which is super easy to set up).
Plus they self calibrate, warm up quickly, and can easily read AFR's for other fuel types (E85, for instance) with no extra work needed.

Spunkster already hit my other comment, that you can just disable the heater error in the SManager, and not have to wire up the resistor.
Alternatively, you can set up your old O2 plug as a jumper, and it will automatically have the resistor built in.

I'm new to this, but basically if I get the PLX I don't need to make an extra hole to plug in 2 o2, is that correct? All I have to do is to replace the original o2 and it will read the narrow to the ecu and the wide to the gauge and laptop?

I'm new to this, but basically if I get the PLX I don't need to make an extra hole to plug in 2 o2, is that correct? All I have to do is to replace the original o2 and it will read the narrow to the ecu and the wide to the gauge and laptop?

Correct you are too the first question.

On the second question the wide band will need to be wired to ELD pin D10 on an OBD1 ECU.