Hondata

Does anyone see anything about why I am running so hot after just a short drive. On the interstate it is worse. This is with the hood off the car. I am running out of ideas. I included two datalogs. And my tune.

Thermostat, its either old and stuck, or not functioning under heat. My $.02

there is no thermostat or thermostat bypass system on the engine. Just want to make sure it is not a management problem.

Don't really see how it could be, not under normal driving. Start looking at your water pump.

already replaced with new waterpump and even put in a new headgasket. thanks for the responses though just wanted to make sure I didn't have some crazy timing or fuel issue causing the problem

you may have bubbles in the system?

I let it idle for 30 minutes yesterday inside the shop. Temperature finally got to 206 and I shut it down. Had cap off and never saw a bubble. I am running ngk 7's should I go to a colder plug? Will this do anything. The temp problem seems to be inside the head. It just won't get rid of the heat. The temp at the thermo housing is always under 190. I have a probe where the fan switch goes. At that temp a normal fan wouldn't even be coming on yet my head is overheating. When I get on it, it will overheat really fast but will idle for 30 minutes in a hot room in South Mississippi.

Will switching to a colder plug make any difference? Will I need to change my tune any?

thanks for any help.

Bottom hose is cold while top hose is hot & u have no thermostat in....

Forget spark plugs,u really got to get inside your cooling system & find out why its not flowing

What was the coolant doing when u had the cap off? was it moving at all?

Do u have a heater box in the car?
What does temp do if u turn on the heater valve when its hot?

I don't know if I would call 190 cold. that is with the fan on. It seems like the entire engine and coolant system is right where it should be just right at the ect sensor and on the exhaust side of the head is too hot. That is why I asked the question about the plugs. After reading alot I learned that a colder plug moves more heat to the coolant. I ordered a set of 8's and 9's recommended in the forum. they will be here in the morning so I wanted to at least give it a shot. I have tried everything else. As far as being in the coolant system I even pulled the head off to check for a problem. I have tried EVERYTHING. But no, there is no heater box.

make sure u dont have thermostat or u have on it, i have the same problem b4 but after changing the thermostat everything is okey now....

sorry...im not converting those pre-historic fahrenheit figures properly lol
wish the US would convert to the 21st century already...

still,
i see & hear my fan switch operate at 93-95C consistently when my ECT is 93-95C,also temp sensor i have installed in a T in the top hose reading 93-95C.
fan switch is supposed to turn off about 85C(according to shop manual) & at most i'll see about 88C still on the ECT or temp gauge in top hose.

so,from what u descroibe 190F aint exactly cold but it still seems like a big diff in temp between top & bottom hose compared to mine,which only sees about 3C(your reporting about triple that) at most.

i would prob start by confirming the temp measurements u are seeing are correct off both points,then go from there

what tells u that the motor is actually running hot?
do u have the stock temp gauge hooked up & does that move also with the ECT rise?

No, I don't have a gauge hooked up to the sensor just going off the ect sensor on my display. I am running the evans waterless coolant (so no boiling) and there is no other sign of overheating.

Mounted an integra temp gauge. It is less than half way when the ect shows 220 degrees. engine did not seem hot. I was testing the ect sensor and the hoses weren't even that hot. Yes, I have replaced the ect sensor. Also got a code 6 (ect) and the smanager kept showing 151 degrees. I would clear it and it would go back to where it was but would throw the code again and go back to 151. It finally stopped after about 10 times. Any ideas? I am checking all the wiring today.

how does the IAT & TPS look amongst all this?

to me your IAT looks a little low for someone whos driving around south US in autumn,but im just guessing from where i am.

do u have a wideband hooked up to that D22 ground as well?

maybe check this D22 first if above seems relevant.

otherwise pull a coupla resistance readings off whatever ECT your using now,like at room temp & suspend in a pot of boiling water & test.

checked all the wiring yesterday. Ground looks great once the ignition is on. Was getting a .9 reading on the voltage wire betweeen the sensor plug and ecu. I checked a couple of friends cars to compare. One friend's B16 was showing .5 and then two more friends with B18B's were showing .0 Ran new wire to ecu and got .0 like I am assuming I should (That one is 21 years old) Plugged back in a got a steady code 6. (insert banging noises from head on wall) Went and got another sensor, plugged it in and just hung it there. Code went away. Waiting on new gauge sensor so I know the gauge inside is right. Will drain and install today to see what is happening. While radiator is empty I am going to a friend's AC shop to have it flushed just because. The IAT wiring looks fine. I have a Precision 600hp intercooler and I am using the Hondata intake heat gasket. Those temps will go up slightly if running in boost.