awesome. thanks man, just thought i would have gotten the phone call...lol. i wouldn't have sold the old ecu, i was actually wanting to mess with it, take it apart and what not... but cha gotta do what cha gotta do...Spunkster wrote:The old ecu was damaged and would not run. WE swaped the K-Pro to the new ecu and everythign was workign properly. We do not return damaged ecu's becuase they usually end up getting sold and then to someone we end up getting them back.
Fried ECU? and Rant
Just for refrence, if the ECU is still available, can anyone at Hondata post any details or post a pic of the "irrepairable" damage to the ECU. I am in a similiar situation as tnhatch02 as far as believing that for some random reason my ECU has fried. Any notes about the damage that I see on my ECU board would immediately prompt me to send another ECU for the K-Pro transfer.Spunkster wrote:The old ecu was damaged and would not run. WE swaped the K-Pro to the new ecu and everythign was workign properly. We do not return damaged ecu's becuase they usually end up getting sold and then to someone we end up getting them back.
i opened up the ECU...just removed the 4 bolts...easy breezy... visually inspecting, i didn't see anything out of the ordinary...this is just with the eye. now, if ya had a magnifying glass or something and knew what to look at ya could i guess. i believe my ecu fried due to having to jump start the car for 2 weeks... *a ground wasn't on*, but after i found it and fixed it, it started...then all of a sudden it stopped working.knwldge54 wrote:Just for refrence, if the ECU is still available, can anyone at Hondata post any details or post a pic of the "irrepairable" damage to the ECU. I am in a similiar situation as tnhatch02 as far as believing that for some random reason my ECU has fried. Any notes about the damage that I see on my ECU board would immediately prompt me to send another ECU for the K-Pro transfer.
what i also did to test the ecu, was put the ecu into another car, of the same make. and it still didn't work. so i was 99% sure it was the ecu.
also, to test the kpro, load up another calibration or adjust something minor and see if the fuel pump still clicks. if so, the kpro still works and its actually the ecu...
Alright thanks for the reply. I honestly don't want start another thread if the ?s I have already been ansered somewhere. w/e. I'll fill you in some details and maybe you can give me your opinion.tnhatch02 wrote:
i opened up the ECU...just removed the 4 bolts...easy breezy... visually inspecting, i didn't see anything out of the ordinary...this is just with the eye. now, if ya had a magnifying glass or something and knew what to look at ya could i guess. i believe my ecu fried due to having to jump start the car for 2 weeks... *a ground wasn't on*, but after i found it and fixed it, it started...then all of a sudden it stopped working.
what i also did to test the ecu, was put the ecu into another car, of the same make. and it still didn't work. so i was 99% sure it was the ecu.
also, to test the kpro, load up another calibration or adjust something minor and see if the fuel pump still clicks. if so, the kpro still works and its actually the ecu...
I think I fried my ECU by not having the engine p/smount ground connected for a few days. (Yes I'm an idiot for this) The car runs and drives but it doesn't rev past 4k anymore. You know what screw it. I'll pst in a thread in a few minutes.
no problem...this is why i made the Title what i did... in case someone else has the same problems, they can look in here and hopefully do what i am doing...so they don't have to search..knwldge54 wrote:Alright thanks for the reply. I honestly don't want start another thread if the ?s I have already been ansered somewhere. w/e. I'll fill you in some details and maybe you can give me your opinion.
I think I fried my ECU by not having the engine p/smount ground connected for a few days. (Yes I'm an idiot for this) The car runs and drives but it doesn't rev past 4k anymore. You know what screw it. I'll pst in a thread in a few minutes.
u had to jump start the car as well? u check ur fuses under the dash and in the engine? u r more than likely in Limp Mode... are u throwin any codes?
I neve have to jump start the car. It's starts normal every time. I've already checked the fuses in the engine bay and under the dash but I'm heading out to check AGAIN. I know how fuses can be, even when I "swear" I've checked them. I went to AutoZone and the only code I was throwing out was P1166. Somehow that machine didn't catch my ABS and SRS light being on. I need to go somewhere else. Anyway, my detailed thread is here: http://hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6002. I'll be back in 20 miuntes.tnhatch02 wrote:no problem...this is why i made the Title what i did... in case someone else has the same problems, they can look in here and hopefully do what i am doing...so they don't have to search..
u had to jump start the car as well? u check ur fuses under the dash and in the engine? u r more than likely in Limp Mode... are u throwin any codes?
how does the ownership transfer from being mine to not? i wouldn't sell a fried ecu to anyone... technically, its still mine right? yall can write on it or something, leave a mark that way no one would sell it and if you got it, u guys would know...Spunkster wrote:We do not return damaged ecu's becuase they usually end up getting sold and then to someone we end up getting them back.
i didn't know that if i sent ya 2 of my ecu's that only one would be sent back... sorry for being stubborn guys... :?
This is our policy with damaged ECUs to prevent them being re-sold on ebay, and as getting the blame from the new owner when their ECU does not work.
Ownership can be transfered as part of the agreement to swap over the components. The question is, the ECU does not work, what use to you would it be?
Ownership can be transfered as part of the agreement to swap over the components. The question is, the ECU does not work, what use to you would it be?
Hondata
is this a policy stated somewhere? as far as part of the agreement, i didn't see anything in what i filled out about agreeing to someone keeping the ecu. something else i was told was that someone would give me a call and tell me what the issue was. i didn't get that phone call. i wanted the ecu back so i could play with it, me tinkering with it wouldn't mess it up anymore than it is. that was my thinking. me selling it wasn't even on my mind. i was wanting to tear it apart.Hondata wrote:This is our policy with damaged ECUs to prevent them being re-sold on ebay, and as getting the blame from the new owner when their ECU does not work.
Ownership can be transfered as part of the agreement to swap over the components. The question is, the ECU does not work, what use to you would it be?
thank you,
berry
i talked to the shop where my car is now at. the regular battery did not work to fix the Daughter Board Communication Error.
he told me that Cylinder #1 Coil Pack is not working. And Cylinders 1 and 3 Fuel Injectors are not firing. he tested the engine injectors and he said they were working. he then tested the injectors at the ECU part and they were not signaling to open. this is doing exactly what it was doing when i had the original Si ecu. all the grounds to the engine/ecu etc. etc. are in the proper location.
i have the 2003 type-s ecu with the kpro board switched.
he told me that Cylinder #1 Coil Pack is not working. And Cylinders 1 and 3 Fuel Injectors are not firing. he tested the engine injectors and he said they were working. he then tested the injectors at the ECU part and they were not signaling to open. this is doing exactly what it was doing when i had the original Si ecu. all the grounds to the engine/ecu etc. etc. are in the proper location.
i have the 2003 type-s ecu with the kpro board switched.
You need to check continuity of the injector wires and check them for continuity to ground and power. You may also need to check your wiring harness for damage.
I know this ecu was tested before being sent back out and it would not have been sent out if there were probelms and injectors not firing would have been noticed immediately.
I know this ecu was tested before being sent back out and it would not have been sent out if there were probelms and injectors not firing would have been noticed immediately.
the shop checked for continuity... they said everything was working, just was not signaling from the ecu. they believe it is the ecu again. they are sending the ecu to a place in FL for a guy to take a look at it. he will say whether or not it is in fact the ecu or not.Spunkster wrote:You need to check continuity of the injector wires and check them for continuity to ground and power. You may also need to check your wiring harness for damage.
I know this ecu was tested before being sent back out and it would not have been sent out if there were probelms and injectors not firing would have been noticed immediately.
i don't doubt that u guys tested it and it worked. but obviously something is going on... or i wouldn't still be here... lol... but i will post up...